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Removed the rear sway bar. Tossed 150 lbs of steel plate in the trunk. Replaced front shock oil with diesel fuel.

Car was running high 1.50's to low 1.60's on the spray at a good track prior to changes.

This time out, we averaged 1.55 on a poorly prepped track.

The funny part is, the body roll is back, and having the cal tracs completely out of the picture in the past pass made zero difference in the launch.

Very strange, and I don't understand why the cal tracs are not working at all.

 

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I do for the most part believe in the Caltrac idea......however i do not feel they are a cure all fix all on all cars. I've messed w. mine so much and made HUGE gains. I finally got a 1.562 w. my F100 w the front tires in the air. And if everyone remembers i started out getting the rear tires off the ground when i first put them on.

Honestly Cavert markets em as a bolt on cure all.........in all reality, this just isn't true. I feel some vehicles have a more favorable suspension design to handle the caltracs in bolt on form then others. ( I say this cause i've seen vid of 3 other trucks that are getting the rear tires in the air just like mine did)


Something as simple as rear ride height can make a huge diffrence, and would be the first thing id look into.

The one thing that i can say is everytime i lowered the front of my bar down.......body seperation, bounce and 60fts were reduced. mine started out at 12degree up w it in the lower hole when i first installed them. Everytime i did something to lower the front point everthing in my launch became better. Just today i ran em at 3deg down and got my best 60ft to date.

Keep after it Greg, Im confident you can make it work better. :lol: :wink: :D
 

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Has anybody compared the Caltracks to a good old fasioned pair of ugly assed slapper bars? They always worked for me... although I was running a puny FE not a 500 plus inch torque monster. I've seen early stangs in the 9's with clamped together leaf-springs and slapper bars though.
 

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Greg, if you unhooked the rear sway bar that could be where some of the body-roll is coming from with nothing back there to slow/reduce the roll.
 

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BBBob_M said:
Has anybody compared the Caltracks to a good old fasioned pair of ugly assed slapper bars? They always worked for me... although I was running a puny FE not a 500 plus inch torque monster. I've seen early stangs in the 9's with clamped together leaf-springs and slapper bars though.
I haven't tried the cal-tracs yet but with the slapper bars I have gotten a 1.67 60ft on motor and a 1.53 on spray delaying the shot about a tenth out. This is with MT drag radials. I can't leave on the bottle or it will basically bunny hop. I since changed the shock mount and shocks in the rear but haven't got it adjusted perfect yet but I hope to get into the 1.49 range with a full slick and a tight shock setting.
 

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Personally I still think your springs are the trouble. I think they are too loose and are allowing too much movement. That is where the body roll comes from. They can't control the power. In the video it looks like your are arching a bunch. That isn't going to push the car forward.

I know on my friends stockers and on my CJ car, springs made a big difference. Your car seems to be reacting how mine did. The rear spring is too active and gets ahead of the front of the car. It then can't get up on the tire like it should and your 60' suffers. My buddies wore out a few pair of their springs also maybe your are just shot. How old are yours? Did you ever measure them when you installed them. You might also want to try adding some clamps to them and see what that does. Its fairly low buck and easy to try. Keep chipping away.
 

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Greg, could you post a picture or two of what your caltrac/suspension goemetry looks like as installed? Im just wanting to see if i can find a launch charastic that matches a given suspension geometry.
We both have big hp and heavy machines, and like you mine didn't respond much at all to diffrent shock settings or stiff bar preloads until i started to change things drasticly.

Mike
 

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Duplicate post... :roll:
 

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Springs

Greg,
I'm not sure if your still running your springs that you made or not. I would also call travis at calvert and talk to him and show him the video.
Also give Dave Mister a pm and I'm sure he ran the cal-tracs before going to a ladder bar setup and has a notebook of info. Have you tried to just stiffen the right shock and back the left one off to prevent the roll. What about some mono springs from calvert Just trying to give you some ideas.
Steve
 
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Greg_Pettit said:
richter69 said:
ladderbars............... 8)
You know, another goober at the track gave me the same advice....lol.....

As the body roll got more pronounced, the 60 foot times came down.

Greg
Greg I know I got a Fox chassis.. But! If my burn out is not intense the car will roll more then if I fry the tires..

Figured I'd share..

Les
 
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Guys what would happen with front end limiters installed?

Umm adding rear weigh would make the car's CG rearward. So Instant Center would change I would think?

Adding weight would put IC more foward... Just my thinking..

Hope ya don't mind Greg.. I'd like to learn for this too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
dirt_worker said:
Greg, could you post a picture or two of what your caltrac/suspension goemetry looks like as installed? Im just wanting to see if i can find a launch charastic that matches a given suspension geometry.
We both have big hp and heavy machines, and like you mine didn't respond much at all to diffrent shock settings or stiff bar preloads until i started to change things drasticly.

Mike
Mike,

I plan on mapping all this out so I can see what exactly is going on, and then I'll share here and with Travis at Cal-Tracs.

Also, I believe Brenden is right, we don't have enough spring back there. Seems like the rear end is completely out of control, and if the springs have too little rate and too much preload the end result seems to be exactly what is going on here.

Greg
 

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Greg,

For now try some clamps until you can talk springs with Calvert or someone else. The spring rate doesn't necessarily need to be super high either but it does need to work right for your car.
 
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