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I have used the Fel-Pro 460 gasket set for my intake manifold three times. First time I used the rubber end gaskets. The last two times I have used Just Right and Permatex ultra black in that order instead of the rubber. I have tried three new oil pressure sensors. I placed a straight edge on the intake and it is not warped.

I don't get any leaking unless I push the engine. Normal driving does not cause a leak. No leaking when it is just sitting.
I just saw a video where they cut the end pieces of the intake manifold and used only sealant. My 460 is a 91 with about 95K on it. The intake was clean as were the china walls when installed. I do not have a valley pan. I finger tightened the intake bolts and torqued the bolts after an hour in two increments. I waited the full 24 hours before running the truck. Since the rear is leaking going down the sides of the trans I am thinking that I should cut those manifold gasket end pieces and go with sealant.

Is there another brand gasket that is preferred on the 460 to prevent leaks and any sealant better than Just Right or Ultra black? I also used about a 3/8" sealant bead. Any advice would sure be appreciated. Also after all this should I get new intake bolts? If so where? Thanks for any help or advice.
 

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Silicon will act as a Lubricant . I dont put any on the botton of the end valley cork gaskets. Trim the ends to fit and put a dab on the corners and across the top. Position the manifold and wait till cured to tighten the bolts. Over night.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where are you suggesting using lubricant? Are you suggesting me using the cork gaskets? I have never seen one for sale. The tightening of the bolts 24 hours after placement is new to me. I have never heard of that. I am not questioning what you have done, I assume you have done it this way. If anyone else has done it this way please chime in. I am no mechanic but I know I don't want to do this again anytime soon.
 

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I assume you are talking about an engine oil leak, not a coolant leak. The Mad Porter on here has installed more than most people. He says he glues the gaskets to the heads with homemade heat riser plugs in the gasket opening, the studs that stick straight up are in place. I think he leaves the manifold sitting on the gaskets overnight, next day puts sealant on the end walls, and throws the rubber rail pieces away. this is how I did mine because I shaved a lot from the deck. Very important to torque down using the pattern from the manual and maybe retorque after a day or so. I also make punch marks in the end walls every half inch gives the ultra gray something to bite.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 

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I said the silicon ACTS like a Lube, not to use a lube. Silicon can be a problem when not used properly and in the wrong places, so lets just Nevermind what I said My bad.
 

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Cork works much better than rubber.Clean the block surfaces really good with brake cleaner.Make sure you get ALL the silicone off.Glue the cork to the block with contact cement...I use 3M Hi Strength,spray it in a cup and brush it on both surfaces.Get it positioned right the first time! Let it dry for an hour or so,lay a 3/16 bead of rtv on top of the cork with an extra blob on each corner.Set the manifold down with the studs as a guide and torque down.Get this done quickly BEFORE the rtv skins over or the seal will fail.

 

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Cork works much better than rubber.Clean the block surfaces really good with brake cleaner.Make sure you get ALL the silicone off.Glue the cork to the block with contact cement...I use 3M Hi Strength,spray it in a cup and brush it on both surfaces.Get it positioned right the first time! Let it dry for an hour or so,lay a 3/16 bead of rtv on top of the cork with an extra blob on each corner.Set the manifold down with the studs as a guide and torque down.Get this done quickly BEFORE the rtv skins over or the seal will fail.

Cork works much better than rubber.Clean the block surfaces really good with brake cleaner.Make sure you get ALL the silicone off.Glue the cork to the block with contact cement...I use 3M Hi Strength,spray it in a cup and brush it on both surfaces.Get it positioned right the first time! Let it dry for an hour or so,lay a 3/16 bead of rtv on top of the cork with an extra blob on each corner.Set the manifold down with the studs as a guide and torque down.Get this done quickly BEFORE the rtv skins over or the seal will fail.

I know their are people who swear by using some kind of RTV on the end rails to seal the intake against the block. I'm old school, and I've always used cork. However, I don't just use the cork that may come with the gasket set...if any do anymore...I don't know. But I put some clay down on the end rails, and set the manifold on. Now you know the exact thickness you need. You can buy sheets of cork (fairly cheap) with all kinds of different thicknesses. Pick the one that will give you a reasonable crush, and use it. I've never had any end rail gasket problems.
 

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I dispose of the cork & rubber end seals in the kits and only use Right Stuff now.... several builds no leaks. In the past, I rarely had any problems using the ultra's (blue, blk, copper)... unless of course the block or intake had an oily residue.

If it leaks only when the engine is pushed hard, it may have excessive blowby.
 

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okay just my 2 cents worth but are you sure its the intake end seals........ i had a fe engine do this and it was the rocker gaskets or head gaskets. typically when oil is up in the head it returns through the lower return holes you replaced ends seals repeatedly so i would rule that out, those are the only two other area where the oil is and it has a larger volume of oil there under higher rpm because there is more oil being sent there, my leak was more to the passenger side , but gaskets are cheap so i bought all sce and perma torque, put it all back together leak was gone so i cant answer as to what one it was but it was gone and i did do some cleaning of things and replacing other items along they way as just maintenance but the problem was solved. and on my 545 blower motor I used the same stuff and i used the end seals with perma black I have 0 leaks.
 

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I have used the Fel-Pro 460 gasket set for my intake manifold three times. First time I used the rubber end gaskets. The last two times I have used Just Right and Permatex ultra black in that order instead of the rubber. I have tried three new oil pressure sensors. I placed a straight edge on the intake and it is not warped.

I don't get any leaking unless I push the engine. Normal driving does not cause a leak. No leaking when it is just sitting.
I just saw a video where they cut the end pieces of the intake manifold and used only sealant. My 460 is a 91 with about 95K on it. The intake was clean as were the china walls when installed. I do not have a valley pan. I finger tightened the intake bolts and torqued the bolts after an hour in two increments. I waited the full 24 hours before running the truck. Since the rear is leaking going down the sides of the trans I am thinking that I should cut those manifold gasket end pieces and go with sealant.

Is there another brand gasket that is preferred on the 460 to prevent leaks and any sealant better than Just Right or Ultra black? I also used about a 3/8" sealant bead. Any advice would sure be appreciated. Also after all this should I get new intake bolts? If so where? Thanks for any help or advice.
I use the Mr gaskets instead, the felpros fall apart. Try dimpling the top of China walls n intake with a ***** punch. Then put a big bead of ultra black silicone down, u should be good.
 

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did you check top drivers side bell housing bolt? It may need a bit of sealer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
did you check top drivers side bell housing bolt? It may need a bit of sealer
No but I will. Thank you. Thanks to all that replied. I have redone the intake and waiting on new injectors so no results as of now. Someone mentioned putting the RTV down in dobs like tig welding. Different than the WORM method I was using. From what I can see I have a great seal now. Will post after I run it. Sandy
 

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No but I will. Thank you. Thanks to all that replied. I have redone the intake and waiting on new injectors so no results as of now. Someone mentioned putting the RTV down in dobs like tig welding. Different than the WORM method I was using. From what I can see I have a great seal now. Will post after I run it. Sandy
use rtv on both sides of the gasket,and all around the port ,throw away the end seals and use straight rtv, black works well.

-Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got it back together with the new injectors and it leaks like a sieve. Front and back. I had A LOT of Ultra Black laid down. My original intake never leaked and this one has leaked four times now. Once with rubber end gaskets and the last three with JUST RIGHT once and Ultra Black the last two times.
I just ordered a Fully reconditioned cleaned, machined and
92077
guaranteed intake on Ebay from a company in Dallas. Their site says they have sold 36 of them. $200.00 plus tax no shipping. I would like to get new manifold bolts but would appreciate advice on where to get them.
You say use RTV on both sides of the gaskets but my leak is only in the front and back. Do you still suggest that procedure? Felpro said not to do it but he is just using protocol. I really think the intake must be warped. I have put a straight edge end to end on each side and the front and back. No gaps show. But it could still be warped. Anyway I am in so deep now I have to try the new one. I also checked the bellhousing bolts as you suggested and they were ok.
 

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As irregular as the RTV looks on the front i'm not surprised there are gaps allowing oil out.

I suggest dry fit the intake with just the gaskets on the side and see how big the gap is on the china walls. If it's a .100" gap (for example), then pull intake and put a .150" ish tall bead that is as smooth as you can do. Install intake and bolt down.

Then visually look to make sure there are no crease that will let oil out.

Absolutely has to be oil residue free so the RTV sticks to both the intake and block.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the reply. Close up of the RTV looks like a 3 year old did it. Because of my previous escapades I figured more was better. As I said I put Dabs or little mountains of RTV touching side by side with the thought that the intake would flatten it out and seal better. The intake and china walls were very clean and oil residue free.
When I put the RTV down before, getting a good level line was not working like an air bubble would pop up sometimes and create a gap. Do you use any method to smooth the layer of RTV out to the correct height? Any trick to getting it out of the tube in a neat and level order? Put the RTV on the china walls and none on the intake correct? I am going with the RIGHT STUFF this time. I am gently tighten the bolts after install and then torquing in sequence twice after 20 minutes. Not starting motor for 24 hours.
I only ran the motor at idle two cycles of about 10 minutes each this time. Should I replace the intake gaskets? Any other thing I should do to finish this simple task. My layer of RTV was so bad this time it was creating a vacuum leak :(. I have already ordered the intake so I will use it. It gets here Thursday. I would like to get new intake bolts. Who should I order from. They all seem to be for carb motors or have poor ratings. What about grade 8 bolts from ACE? I feel they could be stretched but obviously I just want to err on the side of caution this time. At this point a few more bucks doesn't matter. I am also using Mobil One 10W30 and our temps have been triple digits this summer. The 1991 motor only has about 94K on it also and is not raced or abused. Always garage kept and hood open after driving to prevent heat soak.
Thanks again for your reply and I look forward to any advice. Sandy
 

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I use Ultra Grey in a caulk tube, steady going will make a nice smooth bead.

Yes the small RTV tubes can make it tough to get a smooth bead.

Your bolts aren't stretched. I don't think you could get enough torque on them to stretch them, at the proper torque spec anyway.
 
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