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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I'd start this build thread to get some technical feedback on what I'm building. I acquired a fiberglass '32 3 window coupe with the following:
TCI boxed deuce frame
4" dropped Superbell front axle, transverse spring and hairpins
Curry 9+ rear housing, triangulated 4 bar, 31 spline Curry axles, 2" Ford drum brakes
Underfloor Tandem power brake system
Aldan rear coilovers
The PO started building the frame reinforcement and tailshaft mount for a LS setup, but that's just tacked in and will come out easily. I want to drive on the street as well as drag race it so I will have to compromise in most areas. I have a 545 stroker I will be assembling with a D9TE block .030 over, Lunati 4.5" forged crank, 4340 H beam rods, 10.5:1 forged pistons, SCJ-A heads, 950 DP Quick Fuel carb and Harland Sharp roller rockers. I just got a set of CJ block huggers from Sanderson as well. I got a custom FT cam from Scotty when this engine was going in the jet and was to be limited to about 600hp, but will be going solid roller for this setup requiring another cam and lifters. I would like to be between 7-800hp.
I understand the rear suspension will likely a big limiting factor in performance, but since this frame is stock dimensions I don't have the room to go parallel 4 link. I could go triangulated ladder like i did on the '31, but not sure that's much of an improvement.
I'm looking for a short tailshaft C6 as this trans works real well in these early frames. I had considered a C4, but not sure how well it's suited to street/strip duty. Opinions are welcomed on these or other options.
More as I remember it, but this is the very beginning, so changes can be made far easier now than later. What's right, wrong or maybe just a better combination. Don't want to go broke either..... these are just fun, not a dedicated race setup.
 

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Kudo's on going with a Ford drivetrain in a Ford body! I really grinds my arse when they put small block Chevy's in them. The triangulated 4 link in the rear won't be all that bad for a dual purpose set up. IMHO, at that power level, stay with the C6. A 6 point cage will go a long way to making that chassis tunable and predictable...not to mention saving your noggin lol.
Rob
 

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Oh yes, let's build a lil deuce coupe for street and strip. Is it chopped already? Will there be fenders? Let's see some pictures.

I always thought that American Graffiti should have been done with a three window. They used a five window. The cover art for the Beach Boys album, Lil Deuce Coupe (1963) was a three window but it was heavily customized:


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Having a cocktail and doin' a little planning. First up, the trunk lid. I really don't care if it's hinged since the only thing in the trunk will be the fuel cell and battery, so thinking about these push button latches rather than pins. I used these on the dash access panel on the '31 and they are great.
Also thinking brakes. The brake master is power and I'm wondering if I can hit my HP goal and still have vacuum for the booster. On my '68 fastback, a vacuum reservoir did wonders considering how built the engine was.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
At this point in a build I tend to spend a LOT of time staring, measuring and staring some more to get a mental image of what's going to go where. It tends to make the beers in the fridge evaporate too.
Here's about where it'll sit in the frame (but lower obviously). I'll have to recess the firewall around 4" depending upon the bellhousing clearance. A bit more weight bias to the rear, water pump and oil pan clearance are all good things. Another good reason I need the short tail C6.
 

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Will you be moving the entire firewall back or will you be creating a pocket for the engine. I recall seeing a fellow use an old wheelbarrow tub for such a pocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will you be moving the entire firewall back or will you be creating a pocket for the engine. I recall seeing a fellow use an old wheelbarrow tub for such a pocket.
It'll be a recess. Good news is this is fiberglass and will be easy to do. I did a 5" recess on the '31 in steel and wasn't much fun to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So given the parts I already have and the car's intended use, I need to start thinking about tying all the pieces together. Specifically, which cam to run, gears, converter stall, etc. This won't be an all out drag effort, so streetability comes into play and will require compromise. It won't be a touring car, mostly short trips..... 20-25 miles. As far as racing, I have no idea if it will even be a candidate for class racing.... likely just brackets. It doesn't really matter as I just want to run for fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found my trans :) It'll take a week or two to get here, but gives me some time to pick which mounts I want before mock up starts.

I'm leaning toward the Tinman mounts for a couple reasons. I like that the bushings aren't next to the block and feel they will handle the power level I'm planning on better than the typical street rod mounts for a 460.
 

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Found my trans :) It'll take a week or two to get here, but gives me some time to pick which mounts I want before mock up starts.
So where do these short tail shaft C6s come from? That is, what vehicles came from the factory with short tail shafts and bell housing bolt pattern suitable to a 429 or 460?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So where do these short tail shaft C6s come from? That is, what vehicles came from the factory with short tail shafts and bell housing bolt pattern suitable to a 429 or 460?
They came from mid-late 70's 4x4's with divorced transfer cases, some long beds with 2 piece drive shafts or some vans and motorhomes. Engines would have been 351m/400/429/460.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will you be moving the entire firewall back or will you be creating a pocket for the engine. I recall seeing a fellow use an old wheelbarrow tub for such a pocket.

Spent some time staring at it yesterday getting an idea where it's going to go. While I planned on keeping the firewall in place and making a recess, it'll work out better all around to move the whole firewall including trans tunnel and tow kick back 4".
I can't really do much before mock up, but had these stainless shock brackets left over from the '31 build so today was a freebie.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hadn't planned on buying this, but sometimes you have to jump on deals. I got a spam email from PerformanceParts that listed an Autometer 233902 monster tach with recall for $85 and knew they screwed up. Checked the website and sure enough it wasn't listed at that price. Hated to hold them to it, but building a car at Xmas time means you need to save money wherever you can. Glad they honored it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'll be starting the drivetrain mockup, so I'm also thinking about placement for other components. The brakes I inherited are Metric calipers up front, 10x2 drum rear and a power tandem cylinder under floor. I don't necessarily have an issue with the rear drums in this light of a car, but those are easily upgraded if need be. What I'm wondering is how much will a booster limit the cam selection and power. If I'm going to ditch the PB for manual brakes now is the time.
So question is..... how much horsepower can I build from my combination and still have enough vacuum for the booster?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mounts came and bolted them up to see where we go from here. The red sections are where the frame rail is with the top of the rail being level with the pan rail. Planning on pulling the body this weekend and starting block/trans position. Might break out the sawzall and cut out the firewall while I'm at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Spent the evening cleaning up the trans in preparation for mocking up the drivetrain this weekend. This version C6 is 27-1/2" from bellhousing to tailshaft housing and is 6" shorter than a standard C6. This will help out quite a bit on engine placement (a little lower on the frame rails) and drive angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Haven't pulled the body yet but am putting some pieces together. Cut off the old motor brackets and vega bracket so the rails are ready for the new setup. Also figuring out where the roll cage will go as well as harnesses and mounts.
Got a deal on a pair of seats since I will need them when I pull the body and weld in new reinforcements on the frame. Getting a better idea where the steering shaft will run so ordered the steering wheel quick disconnect since seating will be "cozy".
 

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