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I'm really digging this build.
So, with roll bars, I assume that you are going to do some racing. Cool. Will you be seeking a specific NHRA rating?
Looks like there's a built-in chop to the top. How much lower is that top?
Wil this be a fender less high boy?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm really digging this build.
So, with roll bars, I assume that you are going to do some racing. Cool. Will you be seeking a specific NHRA rating?
Looks like there's a built-in chop to the top. How much lower is that top?
Wil this be a fender less high boy?
After pouring over the NHRA rulebook, it's unlikely this will fit in a class. Too light and engine's too big so it'll have street duty and brackets. Went to American Rebel wheels to get a couple wheels for mock up. 15x12 Sprints with 30/14.5-15 M&H cheaters on the rear and 15x4.5" Starburst on the front. Still on the fence on polished or as-cast finish.
Going to have to figure out if I can run power brakes or have to switch over to manual pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Question for you guys about oil pans. The Sanderson's tuck in pretty tight, so while I'd like to run a rear sump pan, I'm concerned the collectors would be too close to the sump. Is there a decent front sump pan for racing or is the header clearance even an issue? Can't run a rear sump "T" style and don't want it too low either (ground clearance). Front sump I can run a "T" pan (if I start building around it now).
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Found a converter here locally that's NIB at 1/2 the price of new and a good starting point. TCI 441001 that says it's an "additional 1,000 rpm of stall" over stock. I'm figuring around 2,800 stall with this combo will be fun. We'll see when it's all assembled and start testing but considering I don't have ANY converter now it's worth throwing a couple hundred at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I won't be getting around to the BBF portion for a couple weeks but there's more to do before that.
Grabbed some tube and the bender and started on the brake lines. I have to pull the body, re-set the firewall, mock up the eng/trans and THEN I can place the master/booster assy.

Since this will be "street legal" it needs turn signals and a hi beam indicator. These LED's were too bright to mount on the dash face, so mounted them facing down from the ledge over the gauges.
No real estate for a shift light with a chopped windshield (and I hate the look of normal shift lights) so went a little stealthier.
 

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That's a clean installation with the brake lines.....but, what I like to do is mount the lines so that the feed line for both front and back enter in the center of the car and have equal length lines out to the wheels. That allows the fluid to reach the wheels at the same time in a panic stop situation and not have the car dart to one side or the other as the fluid reaches the wheels at the same time......especially in as light of a car as yours.....just sayin'.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That's a clean installation with the brake lines.....but, what I like to do is mount the lines so that the feed line for both front and back enter in the center of the car and have equal length lines out to the wheels. That allows the fluid to reach the wheels at the same time in a panic stop situation and not have the car dart to one side or the other as the fluid reaches the wheels at the same time......especially in as light of a car as yours.....just sayin'.
Rob
That really doesn't happen to any great extent with hydraulics as the pressure differential is due to the loss in the run. The caliper at the end of the circuit has to see pressure before pressure can build at the nearest. Pneumatics is another story though......
 

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I'll be starting the drivetrain mockup, so I'm also thinking about placement for other components. The brakes I inherited are Metric calipers up front, 10x2 drum rear and a power tandem cylinder under floor. I don't necessarily have an issue with the rear drums in this light of a car, but those are easily upgraded if need be. What I'm wondering is how much will a booster limit the cam selection and power. If I'm going to ditch the PB for manual brakes now is the time.
So question is..... how much horsepower can I build from my combination and still have enough vacuum for the booster?
You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.
Thanks for the tip. I'm going kind of conservative on this one since it'll be under floor and power. Electric vacuum pump and 7" booster (plus it's new and free).
 

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You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.

Actually a hydro boost master cylinder would take up less room under the floor than a vacuum booster......just more hydraulic lines and a power steering pump.
Rob
 

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Free is always good! In case you didn't know and the vacuum pump happens to be of the SSBC variety...they are super noisy IMO. I have one in another car with a lumpy noisy BBF and you can hear the pump over all the other noise including the very noisy fuel pump. Anyway,I thought I'd throw it out there for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Free is always good! In case you didn't know and the vacuum pump happens to be of the SSBC variety...they are super noisy IMO. I have one in another car with a lumpy noisy BBF and you can hear the pump over all the other noise including the very noisy fuel pump. Anyway,I thought I'd throw it out there for ya.
I've heard about the noise and am hoping a good vacuum reservoir minimizes run time.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Body's going to have to come off real soon to cut the firewall and tunnel, so I'm trying to buy what I need to get the next steps done. This time it's a trans shield since I'll have to trim the floor and build the tunnel around it. I was thinking about a blanket, but since this'll be on the street I figured a TCI aluminum shield will keep the trans cooler than a blanket.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Body's off and fabbed the mounting brackets. Sits right where I want with 3* down and a nice driveshaft angle. I'm confident this arrangement will hold up to whatever I put to it, so I'll tack the brackets on the frame tonight and do the finish welding when the eng/trans come out again.
Time to get out the sawzall and cut out the firewall. I'm itching just thinking about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
A quick update. Cut out the firewall, moved it back 4-1/2", glassed the feet in and started fitting the steering column.
Real estate inside a '32 is scarce, so some compromises must be made. The steering column is slightly angled to center the wheel at the seat (about 2" offset at the firewall), but clear the back of the driver's cyl head and still leave room for the brake pedal. The steering shaft linkage is going to be really kind of cool, but I have a few steps before we get to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Eventually on this build I'll get around to 385 stuff, but for now I have to get the steering column AROUND the engine. Came up with this jackshaft arrangement to get past the motor mount and keep decent angles on the steering u-joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Quick update on this. A lot has been going on build-wise, but not to the engine yet. Starting with a bare fiberglass body is a WHOLE lot harder than steel. I have been working on designing and fabbing window tracks, p/window reg and motor mounts and latches (yes, going to be "street legal"). Why? because I made door hinge assemblies that will hang off the roll cage rather than the body wood (too heavy). Why am I screwing with the roll cage? 'Cuz the cage mounting locations have to be determined before I pull the body to redo the frame reinforcement. Finishing up adding rear disc to the 9" and setting up the 3.89's as well.
Been rethinking my intake and carburetion choices as well, but will wait until I get the frame under control before asking for recommendations.
 
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