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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
With as long as the first cam I selected was on backorder, it gave me more time to think through other choices. Finally cancelled that order and am going a little softer on my selection.
Since the SCJ's are limiting my lift to around .650 (by spring selection and flow characteristics), I've ordered a V292HR. I'l be shifting around 6200 so don't need as much spring and the hydraulic will be easier on the valvetrain as well. This engine is only 10.5:1 so I'll leave a little on the table with this engine and build the spare with more compression, SR and different heads. The soft motor will be more than enough to get my feet wet with this car. Now if I can just GET it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Making some progress! Block is squared and decked putting the pistons .010" in the hole now. Found a roller cam core and am working with Scotty on specs for a grind. Watch out, it may actually run some day!
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Cam's on the way! Thanks to Scotty for working with me and spec'ing this out. Apparently, it'll make this engine a rowdy beast and should get me toward 700hp. Waiting on the correct cam retainer so I can use the cam belt drive assy.
Next up... source the valve springs needed to support the cam and get this sucker assembled!
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
The solid roller cam is here! The rotating assy is in and time to install the cam and dial in the valvetrain.
Here's the specs... cute little cam isn't it? The heads are SCJ-A's so I need to do a bit of upgrading for this cam.Need some feedback on 10* retainers as they have 7* now as well as spring recommendations.
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I was sorta wondering the same thing! Also curious aboot the 10 deg and 7 deg lock thing as I've got a set of both I can use on my SCJ heads as well....
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I was sorta wondering the same thing! Also curious aboot the 10 deg and 7 deg lock thing as I've got a set of both I can use on my SCJ heads as well....
The original build for this engine was for a relatively mild flat tappet cam in the 545 so ordered the SCJ-A heads that come with 7* retainers and locks, milder springs. With this solid roller, I want to step up to 10* (like the SCJ-B) and need advice on springs as well as how much retainer I need (steel or titanium).
I don't mind overkill because I know a lot of people that have thought they could get by with lesser parts and paid the price either by design or fluke.
 

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Quench is a little loose but will be fine with aluminum heads.700 horse should be easy...probably on pump gas.When you get it running,look at total ignition timing.It should work the best at 28,29 degrees.Guys like to think more is better but not with your setup,from my experience anyway.Too bad you didn't get the B's.Would have worked as is with that cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 · (Edited)
Quench is a little loose but will be fine with aluminum heads.700 horse should be easy...probably on pump gas.When you get it running,look at total ignition timing.It should work the best at 28,29 degrees.Guys like to think more is better but not with your setup,from my experience anyway.Too bad you didn't get the B's.Would have worked as is with that cam.
Thanks for the tips. Getting it decked the way I wanted was challenging, so had them deck it to 10.3. Leaves them .008" in the hole and with this head gasket (.041") brings me in at .049".
So the PAC-1243 springs will work well with this cam? No spinning it up tight, shift at 6200 to 6400.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Quench is a little loose but will be fine with aluminum heads.700 horse should be easy...probably on pump gas.When you get it running,look at total ignition timing.It should work the best at 28,29 degrees.Guys like to think more is better but not with your setup,from my experience anyway.Too bad you didn't get the B's.Would have worked as is with that cam.
I am going to be running a coil-near-plug system that allows me to map an advance curve. So with what you noted, I assume I should start with a straight line advance with max advance of 28-29 degrees. Any guesstimate on what RPM to be all in at? Should stall around 3500 and shift at 62-6400 rpm.
 

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Those PAC springs are basically the same as the B heads,probably THE same spring.The Ford Racing B head,roller cam setup lift was 650-650 and they list the PACs at 650 max.Definitely plenty of spring for your cam but make sure to check for possible coil bind just to be sure.On the timing deal,the guys on the dyno set the total at 31 to start, made a pull,advanced a couple degrees,hp went down,kept losing power as they advanced.Started back down and ended up at the 28,29 figure,all in at 2800.We never messed with the curve much after that.The motor had same compression,b heads,slightly less cam then yours,Victor,Dommy 1100,521 ci,made 690 hp.We decided the carb was a little too small and would have gone over 700 easy if bigger.I was out of the picture after that and never really got it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Those PAC springs are basically the same as the B heads,probably THE same spring.The Ford Racing B head,roller cam setup lift was 650-650 and they list the PACs at 650 max.Definitely plenty of spring for your cam but make sure to check for possible coil bind just to be sure.On the timing deal,the guys on the dyno set the total at 31 to start, made a pull,advanced a couple degrees,hp went down,kept losing power as they advanced.Started back down and ended up at the 28,29 figure,all in at 2800.We never messed with the curve much after that.The motor had same compression,b heads,slightly less cam then yours,Victor,Dommy 1100,521 ci,made 690 hp.We decided the carb was a little too small and would have gone over 700 easy if bigger.I was out of the picture after that and never really got it sorted out.
Thanks again. The map is an advantage to me as I can back down the power anywhere in the curve depending on traction issues, launch, etc. Gonna be fun dialing this thing in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
More parts on the way. Went with PAC-1243 springs and changed to tool steel 10* retainers and keepers. Pulling the valves will give me a chance to do some minor bowl cleanup.
Soon as this is done I can start assembly and figure out what length pushrods it'll need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Been fighting trying to make a cam belt drive system work for a couple months, so F it, I'm going double roller with standard timing cover (had them on the shelf for a couple years, but thought I'd beat my head against the wall for a while).
Anyhow, delayed a bit, so what's a little more, right? Since Scotty got my cam done (thanks!), I'm turning my focus to the heads. Since this is all a learning experience, why not try back cutting the intake valves myself? Found an old Black and Decker valve refacer locally for $100, so why not? Been cleaning it up and refurbishing it and got really lucky this had very little use in the 80-ish? years it's been around. New wiring, switches, stones, belts and a little elbow grease and I should be good to go.
So the prevailing wisdom is 30* back cut on the intakes .080 wide? Sounds like a job for some practice on some crappy Chevy valves....
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Very nice deal!!! I'd say you can pick up your $$$ worth out of that in a short short if you wanted to do a lil head work on the sly in your spare (yeh I know who has it now) time! Shop I used to work out of had one of those, a set of seat stones and a pneumatic valve compressor (man I loved that thing!). It really didn't take long to break down a set of heads, clean up the valves on a wire wheel, grind em and the seats, new umbrella seals, (had a huge box of em...) and toss em back together.. at the time I didn't fool with anything more than that, I really wish I had tho.. if I'd taken the time to learn how to do P&P work on em back then I might have had my own shop to retire out of now!!
 

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Nice find! Can't say I've actually seen a B&D grinder but there seem to be a lot of old Sioux and a few Kwik Way machines out there. They are well used and they want $500 or more for them.Always wanted one but just haven't pulled the trigger.
 
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