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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave, My project is also an F150. Damn it has a big windshield hole. I'd like to see 170-175. So I'm thinking 3/16" w/ 2 support rods.\ unless you think 1/8" would do it. (be easier) Thanks again, Ed

 

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3/16" for sure on your deal. Are you going big NA or N2O? I'm hoping for 165-170 NA, but it is going to be tough. I will be 1/8 mile mosty, so 140-145 is what I will be at. (if I ever get done :? )
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats what I thought. Going NA, as big as I can afford. Probally 598 built for some spray. Should come in at 2000-2100lbs w/BB and glide. Probally this time next year I hope. Need to sell my 88 BB notch before I start eng. Got to love those trucks. Ed
 

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I have used 1/8" thick Lexan/Margard for windshields on a few cars that ran in the 4.80-4.70's area 1/8 mile without any problems. The size/shape of the windshield and how much it's laid back can play a part in the decision. A few things listed below can help the 1/8" material work if it's used as the windshield.

(1) One or two small tube vertical supports to help support the center area of the windshield.
(2) A windshield that's "pushing" less air because it's laid back a good amount, or shorter because of a chopped roof.
(3) A windshield with a decent amount of curve (or like a "wrap-around" windshield) will be a little stronger/stiffer facing the wind than a flat windshield.

The 3/16" stuff can be harder to turn tight bends/corners (as in a wrap-around windshield) but of course will flex less in the wind. As the 3/16 stuff ages and dries out you could see more micro cracks the length of a tight curve/bend area compared to the 1/8" thick stuff. Some fiberglass or carbon fiber bodies have a windshield mounting flange that's recessed for flush mounting 1/8" Lexan, and some are deep enough for 3/16". And depending on how crappy the mold was that's used to make the body, the flange depth could be all over the place. :roll:

1/8" or 3/16" thick just remember don't over tighten the fasteners (#6, #8, or #10 screws) or put them in a bind because Lexan is so easy to bubble/buckle if you tighten screws too tight. They are tight enough if you can still rotate the screw some with light pressure applied to the allen wrench or screwdriver. The drilled holes in the body's mounting flange need to have a loose fit around the screw body to help reduce the chance of binding.
 

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svted said:
Thats what I thought. Going NA, as big as I can afford. Probally 598 built for some spray. Should come in at 2000-2100lbs w/BB and glide. Probally this time next year I hope. Need to sell my 88 BB notch before I start eng. Got to love those trucks. Ed
Must be all glass, that's hella light for a truck. sorry to hi jack the thread, just noticed your planned weight.
 

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Thanks Guys! Although it stinks getting older, it still beats the alternative!! :D I think my truck is going to weigh in at around 2250-2350 without me in it. I have an all-steel body except the hood.
 

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svted said:
JSracing, all cm chassis, the body comes in at 140# complete
My chassis is all CM also, body is Steel with a FG front cap. I don't think it is heavier than your truck, there's nothing there but the hull.

Are you including wheels tires, motor, etc?

Maybe mine is lighter than I think, I haven't weighed it. :shock:

 
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JSracing said:
svted said:
JSracing, all cm chassis, the body comes in at 140# complete
My chassis is all CM also, body is Steel with a FG front cap. I don't think it is heavier than your truck, there's nothing there but the hull.

Are you including wheels tires, motor, etc?

Maybe mine is lighter than I think, I haven't weighed it. :shock:

A friend of mine built basically a Pro Stock S10 truck. He had Vanishing Point Race Cars weld up a CM PST legal chassis. After talking to Garley & Randy Daniels who were running PST, they told Joey to use carbon fiber for the body if he wanted the truck to weigh in around 2000 lbs.Svted, I am not saying you are wrong but an F150 in relation to size of an S10 is alot. Plus the weight of the BBF compared tp a SBC is alot. I would guess more around 2400-2500 lbs. Just my guess. All I can base it off of is my MS VPRC Mustang w/108" wheel base weighs 2400 lbs w/o driver with an A460 block 557. What is the wheel base on your truck? The PST chassis have a 125" WB & they are small trucks. Good luck on your build... :D
 

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My mustang body weighed 155 lbs and the entire car weighs 2130 # w/o driver. It has a chromoly dash bar, double frame rails by the trans area, foot box bars , and rear kick up braces . The rest of the car is mild steel, 110' wheel base.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I might be a little happy on the weight guesstimate (no more than 100lbs) This is a sportsmans chassis (7.50 ) No where near the bars that are in a promod and prostock type. The only Ford part on the body is the 3rd brake light. Ed

 

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svted said:
I might be a little happy on the weight guesstimate (no more than 100lbs) This is a sportsmans chassis (7.50 ) No where near the bars that are in a promod and prostock type. The only Ford part on the body is the 3rd brake light. Ed
Which SFI full chassis rating (25.1E, 25.2, or 25.4) are you shooting for with your truck? You might have to add more bars depending on how fast you want to go in a door car/truck. 8.49 to 7.50 needs to be at least SFI 25.4 legal, and faster than 7.49 needs to be at least SFI 25.2 or 25.1E legal.
 
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