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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I bought a magnafuel pump because the are supposed to be for sustained use and I drive my car on the street some. I got a prostar 500, put it on last weekend and got the car running. I finished up a few things on the car over the week and took it out for a drive yesterday. The pump started to sound terrible, others on the forum mentioned that there pumps were pretty loud too so I figured it was ok. Well, on my way home the car quit because the pump locked up. I tried to start the car and the battery was low and wouldn't turn the engine fast enough to start it. called my dad and he brought our trailer and took the car home. put a charger on the battery and the car turned over fine, but still no pump. got under the car to check power to the pump and it had good power but I noticed that all of the plastic was melted off the ground wire. This pump pumped about 5 gallons of fuel before it died, what is going on Here? 550 dollars for a pump and thats what you get? Anyone else have problems?
 

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Have you tried contacting Magnafuel. Talk to rob (if my memory is right). I hope you run a fuel filter befor the pump because if the pump locks up it usualy from objects from something else. this is most likely why the wire melted.
Ace
 

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Not good at all. I too have a prostar 500 after my holley 350dominator pump failed..I have a bit of street time on my prostar 500 and it has been real good and i find it quiet though it is rubber mounted. Mine is dead headed too as per their recommendations with a 9833 large 2 port reg.

My friend here is a magnafuel distributor and we have had zero issues and have sold a lot of their pumps. Get in touch with magnafuel and see what they say. I have had good email feedback from them when i asked a question on whether the pressure could be lowered for street driving to help the pump stay cooler. Here is their reply to maybe help someone .


If your going to street drive it lowering the pressure is better. At the race track you would want to set it back at the 28 psi. The lower pressure will make the pump run cooler.
 

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I run mine on the street all the time. I have probably put 4-500 miles on it so far. It is LOUD though. Maybe need to invest in one of those rubber isolators, but the only problem I have encountered is sometimes the 9833 regulator will creep like mad and just drown the engine. Turn the switch off and get it cleared out and it will be fine. I still run my pump at the factory setting(because I cant figure out how to change it :roll: doesn't matter though.)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I guess magnafuels tech line is not open on sundays, I got no answer. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they say. Now it's time to see if they stand behind there product(like so many companies do not). I'll let everyone know how there customer service is.

Thanks, Derek
 

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A few opinions.

The Magnafuels 500 pump comes with decent sized gage wire to carry the increased amperage loads, if they are melted you might have a short somewhere. Are you using relays, or is the pump wired directly to the rocker switch? Trash isn't good for any brand pump & can lock them up. Even when a filter is used some trash can find it's way inside the pump. Freshly assembled steel braided lines & fittings need to be washed out before being used (grit from the chop saw wheel really builds up inside when cutting the line). Especially true for the pump-to-regs-to-carb(s) lines because when you turn off the pump fuel back-wash can pull dirt/trash trapped in the line back down the line inside the pump (especially front mounted cells/pumps).

While the 500 pump might be thought of as "constant use" rated, dead heading any brand pump at 28-35 lbs of line pressure for extended periods of time (street use) would be hard on any high psi pump. Just look at the monster 500 pump, it is really best suited for WOT racing. In my opinion it's kinda over-kill to use this pump for street use. While your sitting at a stop light (or at part throttle) it's building heat, dead headed & fighting to push un-needed 28-35 lbs of line pressure while idling or at slow cruse speeds.

Also, don't forget to use the correct higher pressure regulators meant for the 500's higher pressure output, this can save you from future headaches. A friend was fighting pressure problems when he first got a 500 pump. He tried to make his Holley and Barry Grant regulators work, but only Magnafuels regulators (meant for that pump) worked correctly.
 

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Sorry to hear about your pump. I'm using the 500 in my Fairlane, and so far so good. I have a couple hundred miles, and 15 passes on the 1/8. :D I bought mine used off ebay, and it was the style without the filter attached, but I used a Magnafuel filter before the pump, and another before my regulator.

Did you use at least -08 on the vent line? Did you run the return off the pump to the tank with -08 line? I'm feeding it with -12 line, and out with -10 to a Magnafuel big port regulator. I also ran 10 gauge wire for the ground and hot, through a relay, and a 30 amp fuse which comes directly off the battery in the trunk (very short run). Is your battery in the trunk or up front? What size wire did you use for power and ground? Sorry to ask so many questions, but I'm just going over what works for me, to make sure you only have a bad pump, and nothing else made it that way.

Also, my pump is very quiet, and you can just about hear it run. I isolated it with the Magnafuel rubber mount, and added sway bar mounts to the bottom of the bracket I made up to further isolate it from metal. Here's a couple pics of my setup.



 

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Discussion Starter #15
i use -12 in and -10 out, -8 vent, -8 return, battery is in trunk using a relay, #10 wire maybe 18 inches long. ground is about 8 inches long. everything is done by the book on this system that's why i'm so suprised something went wrong. I mounted the pump with isolators on the bottom and an isolated clamp on the top.
 

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Derek, it looks like you covered everything, and it looks like a legit product failure. Let us know how Magnafuel takes care of you. Just remember, even Lucifer was an Angel at one time, and he failed to serve. Maybe you just had a bad one. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I called magnafuel today and the guy I talked to seemed really cool. He said just send it back and he'll get it back to me asap. He said it takes about five days. It just sucks because I really want to drive the car, It's been about 2 years since it last ran. Why is it that they break everytime they're driven? I hope I finally get all of the bugs worked out.

Derek
 

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I hear you. I had my share of little bugs myself after my 521 build. Leaking front timing cover seal (didn't install oil slinger), now replaced and leak free with slinger in there. Crappy o-ring Ford T-stat housing leaked, used regular gasket, leaked again. Bought Stant cast iron t-stat housing, and it leaked at the Bash. :shock: Didn't put enought tape on the temperature sending unit for the electric fans...finally fixed. Last night, coming home from my brother's house, the alternator quit on me. Luckily I have two optima battery's and I made it home okay (40 minute drive :shock: ). I'll check that out tomorrow. I was really looking forward to a nice cruise along the beaches too. :cry: Oh well, I'll find out what's wrong. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know pat sometimes you just feel like giving up, but there is something about this sickness that won't let you quit. Just to let you know pat, I pretty much modeled my fuel system afters yours so I guess I owe you a thanks for putting your info on here, it helped a lot.

Derek
 

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Thanks Derek. 8) Today I was troubleshooting my alternator, and I was taking current readings of each of my electrical items at idle and 2400 rpm's. The fuel pump was a steady 15amps, my electric fans were 45amps (twin 13" DeRale's as advertised), and my CSR water pump was 6amps. Not counting all the other things like the MSD box, lights, blower motor, etc..., now you know why I needed the 200 amp alternator. :lol: It puts out 90amps at idle, so that was my main concern and need for the 200amp.

I found out the alternator quits at 2400 rpms, whether driving or just reving it in neutral. I disconnected everything electrically I could, but it still quit working. As soon as I was under 2400 rpms, the alternator worked fine. I took it to a local guy, and he said it checked out okay, but he couldn't spin it as fast as it does at 2400rpm. I'll have to find out how many rpm's that is on the alternator, with a 3:1 pulley ratio (6 inch crank pulley, 2 inch alt pulley).

I hear you on the sickness. :lol: I just want to enjoy the local cruise nights here at the shore. I'm missing Raceway Park tonight (with FREE 1/4 mile pass) and Toms River cruise tomorrow. Oh well, I'll get it straightened out soon. Keep us posted on your pump. I was worried about buying my used pump off ebay, but I guess if it's gonna go, it's gonna go.
 
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