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I bought a kit from Skinny Kid Racecars. It came with everything needed (m/c, rod, and instructions), except the actual brake lines. You will have to bend up some brake lines if you use the same kit I did.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Tobais, I think you have that reversed.

A larger piston will move more volume but requires higher pedal effort.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Correct...it's a little counter-intuitive, but you need a smaller piston with manual brakes. It will give a softer pedal, but more braking force.

I learned this when putting a 1 3/16" bore MC on a '66 Bronco with manual brakes...ridiculously stiff pedal that wouldn't stop worth a crap. Threw a 1 1/8" F150 M/C on it and it worked much better.
 

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Usually the manual brake pedal will have the master cylinder rod mount down lower from the swing point for more leverage than a power brake pedal. If you don't change the brake pedal assy, you won't have enough leverage to push the fluid, and you will have a very hard to push brake pedal. All the Fords I've ever seen are that way.
 

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nickbay said:
Usually the manual brake pedal will have the master cylinder rod mount down lower from the swing point for more leverage than a power brake pedal. If you don't change the brake pedal assy, you won't have enough leverage to push the fluid, and you will have a very hard to push brake pedal. All the Fords I've ever seen are that way.
Paraphrased from turbomustangs.com:
"Aerospace and strange both repackage the '87 Dodge 3/4 ton truck/van master cylinder you can get one with the reservoir for $38 and they sell them for $99. The 1986 ford ranger p/u master cyl. works fantastic too. It is the same one that Baer puts in all it's kits with manual brakes. I believe 15/16ths bore size and the lines exit toward the pasenger side to clean up the install."

I can't find it now but there is an adjustable rod available from Mopar I believe.

I forget which bore sizes work better with drums or discs but I believe if you look around on the net or turbomustangs.com you can find them the info on them as well as how to purchase them for much cheaper than what some of these other companies repackage them for.

You also have to move the fulcrum UP 1.5 or 2" or something like that.

I got the Aerospace components kit and it is a Mopar master if I ever saw one. You will need an adapter plate though as you will with any of the kits. I have one I bought from Holcomb a long time ago for sale cheap if needed.

Greg
 

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When I installed my kit, the instructions said to move the pivot point up 1". While doable, I find myself 'standing' on the pedal occationally. Therefore, i'm going to move it up another .75". I have plenty of pedal travel to spare.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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I just went to the local salvage yard & got a man brake master cyl with the back plate& pedal out of a plain jane 79 mustang , works great & only cost me 10.00! :wink:
 

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I believe you are going to find that on your current master cylinder you have 3 brake lines, two exiting the master cylinder towards the engine and one exiting out the bottom which goes to the front left brake.I am not sure why Ford did this.You are going to have to plumb that line into the other one.Someone sells some kind of an adapter to do this or if you are installing a line-loc you might have to do some creative plumbing.Also if you go to the wrecker's and find a manual brake pedal from a automatic car and you need one from a standard or vice-versa don't despair as the only difference is the size of the foot pad, the rest is the same.
 

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The fittings to combine the brake lines are availabe at almost any auto parts store. They should have them in the back.

Have a good day!
Michael
 
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