460 Ford Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I went racing yesterday. Just a local test and tune in the 1/8 mile at Ohio Valley Dragway in Lousiville KY. My first run was decent. 7.07 @ 97.+ miles an hour (keep in mind I'm almost 5000 pounds with me in it). The second run wasn't so decent. I ripped yet another driveshaft out of it about 20ft or so off the line. No real carnage. The motor, trans and bullet proof Strange Pro rear end were fine. But these stock junk yard drive shafts just aren't holding up so well. Looks like I'll have to make a call to Denny's Driveshaft and spring for one of the $1500 dollar models. OUCH!! Here are the video's to prove it. Looks like I'm done for the year. ...I hate winter.

www.MrScharfenberger.com/F100/TruckVideos/F100vs86Camaro.wmv

www.MrScharfenberger.com/F100/TruckVideos/Broke.wmv
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
Your truck does run real good. A 7.0 is about an 11.0 in the 1/4.

BTW I paid around $300 for my driveshaft locally. Its a 3" chromoly tube with 1350 u-joints and its around 4 years old with a ton of passes and street miles. I grenaded my stock 9" case and driveshaft on the line right before that on a spray pass. It blew the pinion gear out of the case and ripped the driveshaft in half but the u joint was fine connecting the 2 laying on the track lol. It didnt move but an inch. Wish I would have got a picture of it. I think putting the rear on top of the springs will help this situation alot as well. With the driveshaft being so long the rear separation is putting too much leverage on it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yep. It doesn't run bad. I still have another 325 shot of spray to lay on it just as soon as I can get a driveshaft that will hold up. I was actually having the track garage filling my Nitrous bottle as I made the pass that broke the drive shaft. Last night was going to be the night that I actually got to see what it would run. Those runs were all motor.

Do you have a one piece or 2 piece driveshaft? Mine is a 2 piece. That is part of the problem...or so I think. That and I have got to get the rear end to stay down. You can really see in the video's how it lifts up so bad. Also if you noticed on the run where I break it my front wheels are locked up and the truck pushed across the line anyway. The light wasn't near green but I just let it rip. There was no holding it back. It was ready to go. I was on the foot brake only and had it wrapped up to about 3500 rpm with it pushed through.. again. ...damn the luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
Great running truck!!
I think lowering the rear will be a big help. Putting some ballast in the rear will help too.
As for a driveshaft, go to a local place that repairs semi-trucks they have much beefier shafts than any light truck or passenger car is going to have.
Any competent repair shop should be able to handle your needs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
Wow if thats all motor that truck should be a serious contender on the bottle. Your starting out with a 325 shot? You have some balls lol.

I have a 1 piece. Thats how the shortbed trucks come. Im pretty sure you can do a 1 piece shaft on your truck. It should be stronger. And the Rancho RS9000 shocks helped my truck out a ton with the new shock mount. It still lifts but its much more controlled and adjustable.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yep. All motor. And I have the timing turned down to 32 degrees. I need to try to twist it up a bit more and see what that does. The carb is also a straight out of the box QuickFuel 4150 Q Series 1050. I've never touched that or turned a screw on it (except the idle screw that is). I'm not sure if it is in tune but it starts everytime and hauls a** so I have just left it alone. I'm sure it has a bit more in the motor but I haven't messed with it.

Denny's driveshaft told me a year ago that they just wouldn't make a single drive shaft as long as I need for it. They did tell me that they would make a 2 piece for about $1400 but they wouldn't guarantee it with the weight that I am pulling. We do have a Republic Diesel shop here in town. I may take my now retired drive shaft in and see if they can make a heavy duty one to replace my now dear departed driveshaft. It took me hours of walking through junk yards to find that last one. I was also running a hybrid U-Joint on the rear pinion yolk. It was a 1330/1350 with a zerk fitting. The U-Joint broke as well. So I'm not actually sure what broke first. The U-Joint or the driveshart. I just have the pieces that were the end result. I'm going to hang the drive shaft on the "Wall of Shame" in my barn. It will be inbetween the Offenhauser intake that whistles and the stock 9 inch pumpkin that is missing the front face. We never did find that pinion gear that night at the track. I'm guessing that it went over the wall. I did have sharpnel holes that came up through the bed when that one let go. Ahhh... the memories... All of them were expensive!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,404 Posts
Thats one badasssssss donk, i love big heavy cars that haul ***. Lucky you didnt use the spray on that run!!!. I think that the 2 piece shaft was a big problem, get a custom 1 piece 3.5 or 4 inch chrome moly from strange engineering made up for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
377 Posts
Which end is 1350,the pinion yoke or the driveshaft?If you've twisted off a few universal joints the yoke is probably oblong and needs to be replaced too.After being standed in the woods a few times with my old 78,I learned this the hard way.LOL..Never said Im a quick study.
Russ
Oh by the way,awesome truck!Can't wait till you spray it!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Which end is 1350,the pinion yoke or the driveshaft?If you've twisted off a few universal joints the yoke is probably oblong and needs to be replaced too.After being standed in the woods a few times with my old 78,I learned this the hard way.LOL..Never said Im a quick study.
Russ
Oh by the way,awesome truck!Can't wait till you spray it!
The pinion yoke end is the 1350 but that is the first one that I broke with this pinion yoke. It was new from Strange in the spring. It is also their chrom moly piece that came with their Pro race case, pro gears and full spool. It didn't appear to be harmed at all. But the Moroso aluminium U-Joint clamps that bolt into the chromemoly pinion yoke were toast. Good thing they are only $30 bucks a pop. I'll get a new set when I get a drive shaft built. I'm going to check out the local Republic Diesel shop in Lousiville tomorrow and see if they can build something that can take the abuse. They work on 18 wheelers and cement mixers. I'm sure they will be able to come up with something for me. I just hope I don't need a fork lift to put it in.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thats one badasssssss donk, i love big heavy cars that haul ***. Lucky you didnt use the spray on that run!!!. I think that the 2 piece shaft was a big problem, get a custom 1 piece 3.5 or 4 inch chrome moly from strange engineering made up for you.
I don't know what a donk is but I LIKE it!! Strange won't build one that long either. I already tried them. They were the ones that sent me to Denny's Driveshaft. I'm thinking I can get one made locally. Hopefully it will be cheaper than Denny's quote was. I'm all for the chrome moly stuff. I bet that will hold up. Now all I have to do is get it lowered a bit. DroppedF100 has given me a few ideas about how to do it. Now I just got to find the time to get out in that barn and fire up the welder. I'll git er done!!

...I got a donk!! Too cool!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,404 Posts
Another option is a COMPOSITE (carbon fiber) 1 piece driveshaft from INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE. Composite shafts are carbon fiber wrapped up in liquid resin that, when it cures, is super strong. It will take darned near anything you can throw at it. Its designed to tolerate 3,900 lb-ft of torque. Rotation is smooth and stable up to 14,000rpm. They are about $1,000 but no more head aches. Hope this helps ( plus you dont need a fork lift to put it on) lol!!!!!!!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Another option is a COMPOSITE (carbon fiber) 1 piece driveshaft from INLAND EMPIRE DRIVELINE. Composite shafts are carbon fiber wrapped up in liquid resin that, when it cures, is super strong. It will take darned near anything you can throw at it. Its designed to tolerate 3,900 lb-ft of torque. Rotation is smooth and stable up to 14,000rpm. They are about $1,000 but no more head aches. Hope this helps ( plus you dont need a fork lift to put it on) lol!!!!!!!!
That carbon fiber thing is a good idea. I hadn't thought about that. I'll call them today at lunch and see what they have to say. Thanks for the idea!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,936 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I always thought a donk was a car done like this



but what do I know.
That is not a "donk". That is a "dumb". .....as in idea. i.e. that is a dumb idea!! :D I just can't see the fascination with that kind of car. But what the heck do I know... I drag race a 5000 pound pickup truck. Most say that is a dumb idea also!
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top