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Discussion Starter #21
Hey

Let me know how this works out I am looking for one to go in mine and I was leary of the stuff on Summit and Jegs. I will need a different one since we have changed the complete setup. I was going to get one of the models with twin fans and a nice sroud built in. Gota love this custom stuff.

Clay

Clay
I will let you know but I'm a good couple months away from startup. Also check the link below. I don't think this made it onto my parts list. It is the dual puller fans that I will be using. They pull 4600 cfm. I had them on my truck but have taken them off to use on the Mustang. They never had any problem cooling the motor and the fan shroud is built in.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-295/

You still in China?

Chris
 

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Nope I am in India for 2 weeks will be home on the 6th.

I am probally several months for getting all the wiring done and the other odds and ends so you most likley will beat me. I will have to spend 2 weeks in the UK in Jan. as well.
That Griffin is a nice part.

Thanks.
Clay
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Frustrating Day

Well after working on the Mustang all day I tried to drop the motor in. The oil pan that I have on it is the truck/foxbody swap pan. The only problem is when I had it in my truck I had a local guy modify it. It now has a bigger rear baffled sump. And yep... You guessed it. It would not clear my UPR K-member by about 2 inches. No amount of pushing or pulling was going to get it in there. So before I tore something up I pulled it back out.

Sooooo close yet so far!! #*^%#%$!!!

Now where did I put my B.F. hammer?? Damn the luck...


I know Ford has the foxbody swap pan. But I'd like something bigger that holds more oil and is baffled. Anybody have any part numbers for me? I'm going to be on the internet searching for what I need tonight. Hopefully I'll get something here by mid week. I'll choke if I have to buy a $300 Moroso pan.
 

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Chris my truck uses a fox swap style pan as well and I am going with the Moroso 20625 but that pan is ~$420 but set up for dragracing or the other pan which is same shape but without the windage tray and crank scraper it is 20620 I believe and that one is a little over $300. The Canton pans Lem was selling were nice pieces but they won't fit with the headers and starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Chris my truck uses a fox swap style pan as well and I am going with the Moroso 20625 but that pan is ~$420 but set up for dragracing or the other pan which is same shape but without the windage tray and crank scraper it is 20620 I believe and that one is a little over $300. The Canton pans Lem was selling were nice pieces but they won't fit with the headers and starter.
I was thinking $300 for a Moroso but you are right. I was on Summit and they are more than that. This sucks. More money...More money...

This thing better haul a$$ when I'm done.

Will the $420 one with windage tray and crank scrapper fit the 4.3 stroker crank? If I recall you are a 4.3 stroke as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Rear End Pictures

I got a couple of pictures of the rear end this evening. The 9 inch housing was purchased from Quick Performance on eBay. It came with Aluminium spherical bushings and had the brackets on it to bolt right into a foxbody. I then got axel housing reinforcement brackets from Jegs and welded them on.


9 inch housing from Quick Performance with Moser 35 spline axles



Strange 9 inch nodular iron pro center section with 3.62 pro gear set and full spool
 

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Chris it is starting to come together... Only one thing I will say.... there were a lot of other parts I could have saved you some $$$ on... ;)

:p:p:p
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Chris it is starting to come together... Only one thing I will say.... there were a lot of other parts I could have saved you some $$$ on... ;)

:p:p:p
The only other things I have bought recently were the front Strange Brakes and the radiator. And I thought I had asked you about the brakes.

...or maybe I didn't.

I still need a tach, manual rack & pinion (I'd lke the quick ratio), 5pt harnesses but I won't buy those until I'm ready to go because they expire, manual offset master cylinder, brake lines, maybe some Kirkey seats (I hate the Scat Procar seats I have. They look nice but I don't fit well) and probably 17 other things I can't think of off the top of my head. Let me know if you can do anything with that list and we will go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hey Cale.. There was one other thing.

How about a larger set of balls so I'm not afraid to drive the thing. Preferably ones made of steel!! :D You know.. The same kind Chuck Yeager had.


Am I going to need some kind of license to drive this thing? I have no idea what the rules are. I don't know anybody that does this stuff. I just want to haul butt..

Will a pilots license work? I have one of those. I can land several different types of airplanes....so I'm thinking I can land a 1993 Ford Mustang too!


And I have a Class A CDL with Hazmat endorsement!! Surely one of those will work.
 

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Chris you will need a comp license with a physical card every year and the cage will need to be certed quicker than 9.50 or faster than 135mph. Funny thing is it is the same physical as our DOT physicals but they still want one yearly. The cage should certify to 8.50 just have to have decent welds with good penetration and no grinding of welds!!!

A racecar shop should have a guy that will come certify cages usually about $75 around here. A decent shop should be able to look over the cage and give you some help if their are any issues before you pay the guy to show up to cert it.

I believe the comp license consists of making 2 60" passes then 2 180" passes then 2 330" passes in fornt of 3 license holders and they become your sponsors. I may be wrong on some of it but that is the way I understand it.

P.S. When you make the passes for your license make sure the car will go fast enough to warrant the license or they won't sign off.
 

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Chris you will need a comp license with a physical card every year and the cage will need to be certed quicker than 9.50 or faster than 135mph. Funny thing is it is the same physical as our DOT physicals but they still want one yearly. The cage should certify to 8.50 just have to have decent welds with good penetration and no grinding of welds!!!

A racecar shop should have a guy that will come certify cages usually about $75 around here. A decent shop should be able to look over the cage and give you some help if their are any issues before you pay the guy to show up to cert it.

I believe the comp license consists of making 2 60" passes then 2 180" passes then 2 330" passes in fornt of 3 license holders and they become your sponsors. I may be wrong on some of it but that is the way I understand it.

P.S. When you make the passes for your license make sure the car will go fast enough to warrant the license or they won't sign off.
That's cheap. I'm looking at the NHRA chassis cert on my car (8.50) and it cost $190.
 

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That's cheap. I'm looking at the NHRA chassis cert on my car (8.50) and it cost $190.
It just depends on how much the guy that is doing it wants to charge, classic supply and demand deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hey thanks for the info guys. That helps. I knew about the "NO" grinding the welds so it is all untouched. I think it should certify to 8.50 pretty easy. The cage looks really good and the welds are a lot better than I've seen on most out at our local track. I have talked to the local guy at our speed shop. They do have somebody that will certify it. BUT.. It is $160 for that. But hey.. What is another $160 after the $30,000 or so that I have already spent.
 

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Anything I do on my car costs me double.... as it seems the wife starts asking for something of similar value shortly after the car parts show up.

Coincidence or....?
No!
 
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