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Discussion Starter · #1,361 ·
HOWS the 330's,and the 60ft times there,never been to that track, was hoping to this year
The 330's & 60ft times are identical to what I run at Ohio Valley. It is a nice 1/8 mile track with plenty of hook and good people running it.

Where you have to worry is the shut down area & lack of emergency personnel if you REALLY get into trouble. The shut down area is short in my opinion. Phillip Oakley running 169 mph there looked terrifying to me. I only go 120 and there isn't much room for error. You are also out in the middle of nowhere. If real medical help is needed you are a looooonnnng way from it.

With all of that being said......I'll go plenty of more times. My car is quick but it isn't terrifying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,362 · (Edited)
I got the car back out yesterday. I ran the bracket races & US 60 Dragway last night. I mushed the gas pedal again during time trials so predicting a time was tough. I ended up making 7 passes. 3 were time trial runs & 4 were bracket runs. I've compiled all the in car camera shots of the runs to make up the below video. There are captions along the way that describe each race and tell you what is going on.

TeamZ gas pedal is already ordered & on the way.

The Phillip Oakley built, Lem Evans spec'd 587 motor preformed flawlessly. The motor is a beast.

 

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Discussion Starter · #1,364 ·
nice.....but you need a working headlight. New gas pedal should help. what was 60'?
I always thought I just needed a working tail light. Maybe common sense should also say headlights too.... It is a little dark down at the big end now that you mention it.

:)

60' was in the 1.33 to 1.34 range all night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,368 · (Edited)
From Pusher To Puller Fans

It has been a long time since my last update. I've been working WAY too much. Anyway it is winter time here in Indiana so I figured I'd screw with a perfectly good running car. Specifically it is my goal to turn my pusher radiator fan setup back into a puller configuration like it is supposed to be. Does it cool the car now? Yes. But that is track only. I may make a run at Hot Rod Drag Week and if I do I need the fans to be the most efficient they can be at cooling the car. So... here we go.

With the front nose & bumper off you can see my Flex-a-Lite 295 fan set up. This is a killer fan & shroud set up. It flows 4600 cfm of air when in the puller configuration.


Here is the front radiator support opening I have to work with on the stock unibody.



Stock radiator support from behind.



After I cut away the lower radiator support.


I put the radiator in about the location I thought it should go. I then stuck the nose on to check clearances.

'

A view of the mocked up radiator from the top.



The top radiator support rail was very thick. I decided to thin it down so I could have the additional height to raise the radiator.


This is kind of a bad angle but this is after I took the bottom off the top rail. I left the top piece in to keep it looking like the stock front radiator support.


I'm further along than what the pictures show. I'll get the other pictures uploaded soon and show more on this radiator move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,372 · (Edited)
I got the bracket built that will hold in the radiator & fans in place. Now I have to create the new front radiator support on the body. Below are some pictures of the progress.

Radiator bracket with tabs on all 4 sides to hold everything in place. There are 12 tabs all together. 4 on the top & bottom with 2 on each side.


Backside of radiator with fans in place. As you can see the 4600 CFM fans cover the entire back side of the radiator. I figure this will be an excellent setup.


I had to remove the drain pitcock and put in a plug. I got a little carried away with the gasket glue...


I cut steel brake line to use as spacers between the radiator support tabs & fan shroud.


Yep.. I took a 2 inch hole saw to my $500 dollar Flex-a-Lite fan shroud to make everything fit well together. It is also easy to get the radiator hose on and off. You just have to make sure the clamp is lined up correctly when pressing the hose on. I'll use some heat resistant foam tape to seal any air gaps between the fan shroud & the radiator body. I'll make sure all the air goes through the fins..


This is where it all needs to go. Now I have to build the new front radiator support around the new radiator support bracket.
The radiator bracket will be welded to the radiator support. If all works as planned the fans will be able to be removed first then the radiator will pull out from inside the engine bay. They will not go in and out together.



It may be hard to tell but I have 1 inch of clearance between the fans & crankshaft center bolt.



I'll be working on the front radiator support bracket this weekend. Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,373 ·
The puller fan configuration is complete. Just in the nick of time for the all Ford race in Hardinsburg US 60 dragway this weekend. Once again this was WAY more work than I originally thought it would be. I think it turned out well. The first launch will tell me how good it is however!

 

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Discussion Starter · #1,374 ·
Hot Rod Drag Week 2019

OK...So it is easy to say now because it is still about 1 year away. ...BUT... I want to take this thing on Hot Rod Drag Week next year.

Give me your opinions on:

1) My motor going & lasting (going excellent chance...lasting..??..slim to none of a chance..??..)

2) Options to make car last (different motor or cam or other things..??..just opening up the debate)

3) Things to consider. What else might I be missing?

4) What saftey items are mandatory and how to prove you have them?

5) Racing Drivers Licenses. I think this car will be fast enough to need an NHRA & IHRA license at the tracks they will use. I know people needed them this year. I'm not sure how you get the licenses. Thoughts on this??

Known other things I'd have to do.

1) Put headlights back in
2) Blinkers
3) Marker lights
 

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I'd say your biggest enemy is that big cam (not sure on specs??) and the possibly the lifters you're running - I see they are Crane Ultra Pros but I'm talking more of the potentially larger lash and street miles. No reason the rest of the drivetrain/car shouldn't do just fine.

Drag Week was always my dream, but alas, it won't happen. Good luck!
 

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I would think it will not last, without hurting any parts because its a race engine.........could it last?.....maybe, but you don't want to waste all that money trying.

Sell the heads (to me lol)...........and buy the new JON KAASE SR-71 HEADS, cam change and she will last and make more power!!

Cheers, Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,378 · (Edited)
The answers to these questions might make a really useful Quick Start Guide to Drag Week or whatever it's called. A stickey maybe?
I'd say your biggest enemy is that big cam (not sure on specs??) and the possibly the lifters you're running - I see they are Crane Ultra Pros but I'm talking more of the potentially larger lash and street miles. No reason the rest of the drivetrain/car shouldn't do just fine.

Drag Week was always my dream, but alas, it won't happen. Good luck!
I would think it will not last, without hurting any parts because its a race engine.........could it last?.....maybe, but you don't want to waste all that money trying.

Sell the heads (to me lol)...........and buy the new JON KAASE SR-71 HEADS, cam change and she will last and make more power!!

Cheers, Bob
I agree... I think I'd kill the valve train. I know what I would like to do but we will discuss that soon.

What about the Abruzzi PowerGlide I have with the enormous stall converter? I'm thinking if I have a couple of large trans fluid coolers attached I can make it work. There were guys there this year with very large stall converters. It is the very expensive race transmission that I was a bit more worried about. I'm not sure how built for street driving it is. I'll drop Marco Abruzzi an eMail asking the Drag Week question and let you guys know.

I also think I'd need to drop the gearing back down. I currently have a 4.29 rear gear. That would be too much with a 2 speed trans on drag week. Probably a 3.50 to 3.73 would work best on the long haul.
 

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Yeah, I don't think large stall is a concern so much, but if you change the gear it will drastically effect the stall, so you'd want to address that. Good coolers will be key, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,380 ·
From: Marco Abruzzi [email protected]
Date: Thu, Oct 04, 2018 7:01 pm

The ringless input is not made for extended use like that. It rides on 2 bushings and they will wear out in a long ride like that. Plus with a 10 clutch drum they will get hot

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 4, 2018, at 12:34 PM, <[email protected]> <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Marco..

I have one of your "Mac Daddy" transmissions behind a 1000 HP big block Ford in a 1993 Mustang. Stall converter is 6200 RPM (well it is supposed to be. It stalls at more like 5800 RPM.)

My Question:
In your opinion could this transmission make a 1000 mile drive on Hot Rod drag week next year if treated properly? I just don't know the street durability of this unit. It has been great for 1/8 mile blasts (probably only 30 in all so far). I figured I'd ask the expert while planning for my attempt.

Thanks,
Chris Scharfenberger
Georgetown Indiana
Above is the eMail exchange between Marco Abruzzi & myself. It looks like I'd need a different plan for the transmission too. I think another transmission might be cheaper than getting this beast reworked after Drag Week. That plan could also help remove the possibility of transmission failure during the week. My current transmission is built to take 2000 HP. I'm barely doing half of that. Looks like over building here isn't paying off just yet.

Here is a link to the transmission I have in the car now:
Abruzzi Mac Daddy PG
 
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