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mud truck engine build info??

3461 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  kjett
building mud truck
1975 cj5 fully boxed frame,dana 44 front,ford 9inch 4.10 gears in both.will be using 111 or higher race gas. havent purchased anything currently thinking 514 or higher stroker,block is D1VE factory bore,c8ve heads with 2.19 intake valves and 1.80 exhaust valves from ferrea, 1.7 roller rockers 3/8 pushrods and guide plates,will be running c6 and np205 t-case.will have around 5000 dollars to build heads have already been completed snd transmission is built just looking for engine build info.location is kc,mo
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Any class limits? Vacuum, cubic inches, ect.....
building mud truck
1975 cj5 fully boxed frame,dana 44 front,ford 9inch 4.10 gears in both.will be using 111 or higher race gas. havent purchased anything currently thinking 514 or higher stroker,block is D1VE factory bore,c8ve heads with 2.19 intake valves and 1.80 exhaust valves from ferrea, 1.7 roller rockers 3/8 pushrods and guide plates,will be running c6 and np205 t-case.will have around 5000 dollars to build heads have already been completed snd transmission is built just looking for engine build info.location is kc,mo
Are the 1.7/1 rockers FORD geometry rockers...? Be sure the rocker arms are Ford geometry.

Matching the engine size to the heads is paramount ... with those heads a 4.150" stroke would be my choice and 4.300" stroke at the most, if you're planning to eventually upgrade the heads. Torque is NOT the only factor, as necessary wheel speed, (which usually happens AFTER peak horsepower), is a major requirement.
Any class limits? Vacuum, cubic inches, ect.....
MODIFIED

40- AND UNDER UNMODIFIED DOT TIRES ONLY , THE TRUCK OR 4X4 BODY MAY BE CUT AND GUTTED, BUT MUST BE ABLE TO TELL WHAT OEM TRUCK BODY IT WAS FROM THE FACTORY. MUST HAVE A METAL FIREWALL. CAN HAVE FIBERGLASS FRONT CLIP , DOORS, AND BED SIDES. BUT MUST HAVE A OEM METAL CAB!!!!!!!!- DRIVER MUST SET IN FACTORY LOCATION BALANCER CAN NOT BE BEHIND THE FRONT AXLE TUBE, BODY SWAPS ALLOWED, STOCK STYLE SUSPENSION ONLY,MINIMUM OF TWO LEAFS PER LEAF PACK (NO COILOVERS,FOUR LINK SUSPENION ECT) HOWEVER THE USE OF FORD TYPE STOCK COILS IS ACCEPTABLE,RADIATOR IN STOCK LOCATION *****-NO ALUMINUM BLOCKS OR HEADS********* ,NO DUAL CARBS, NO NITROUS, NO INJECTION. NO TURBOS, NO SUPERCHARGERS, OPEN HEADERS ARE ALLOWED(UPRIGHTS ALLOWED), MAY NOT POINT TO THE SPECTATORS, , RACE GAS ONLY, FUEL CELLS OKAY, NO TUBE FRAMES---- MUST USE A STOCK TRUCK FRAME------MUST HAVE A 4 POINT ROLLCAGE CONNECTED TO THE FRAME
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Are the 1.7/1 rockers FORD geometry rockers...? Be sure the rocker arms are Ford geometry.

Matching the engine size to the heads is paramount ... with those heads a 4.150" stroke would be my choice and 4.300" stroke at the most, if you're planning to eventually upgrade the heads. Torque is NOT the only factor, as necessary wheel speed, (which usually happens AFTER peak horsepower), is a major requirement.
as for my knownledge the rockers are ford geometry. i would like to run 12:1 or higher if possible on a 521 or bigger stroker thinking ohio crankshaft kit or a scat kit i want to spin this thing around 6000 rpm constant in a pit will be running stall converter and 4.56 gears maybe 5.13 gears in low side

im looking at these cams
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-416A3LUN/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-416A4LUN/
I can tell you for a fact that a zero decked D1 block, stock crank, SCAT h-beam rods and ported/slightly decked d0ve's will get you around 11.7:1 compression. And if it's put together with the right parts, will put you into the 600+hp range. ;) An off the shelf cam like you are looking at won't do for you what you want. Get a custom cam ground for your application and head's.

My little 466/c6/205/4.10's on 38.5 boggers did 6.4 second passes this past weekend with a bit of air time at the end of the track that slowed me down. If could have seen where I was going, I would have missed the bump and been closer to 4.something passes!
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