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Discussion Starter #1
so you can see from my build thread my back tire's arn't exactly fitting, and I really want to use them.


here's a question for ya.....
can I cut the rails where the tire would contact them. Then get another set of rails from the same chassis (with an extra 4-5 in both sides) and weld them to the rails I already have? An extra 4 in of tire clearance would be really nice.
I also want to redo part of the rear suspension. The galaxie has 2 long LCA and a single offset short UCA. Then a panhard bar for a locator.
could I take and put 2 uca in a triangle (like a 5.0 but longer) to remedy this? I have an old 4 link kit sitting that could work.
cletus66 you got some frame rails?

Thanks
 

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you could cut them out to clear and build some fender flares out of fiberglass had a freind do that to a comaro to clear his
 

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IMHO, it'll look better if you move the wheels in. I'd do a mini tub and adjust the wheel's backspace to center the tire on the tail light(when viewed from behind).
 

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his turned out real good his was also rusted out when he finished you couldn't tell it, it is some time comsuming but worth it in the long run when you figure what you would have in it replaceing qt. panels vs fiberglass and time
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IMHO, it'll look better if you move the wheels in. I'd do a mini tub and adjust the wheel's backspace to center the tire on the tail light(when viewed from behind).

If I could I would:mad:
those are 16in wide tires, I can fit a stardard 325 easy but these are 390's they are sitting against the frame now (a true frame not like on a unibody).
I really prefer to move them in over widening the thing hence my question about splicing 2 frames together.
 

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Cut the frame rails, move them in. If you cut the frame in the correct spot, add a cross member to join the front half together ( side to side ). Re-use the stock rear rails. I sure you will have to cut and narrow the remaining cross members for the rear half. add gussets, bracing, Etc... Are those the M & H's you are using?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes, MH drag radial 390-45-15. seems to be every bit as good as the MT's they were going to replace on my last stang. if I have to cut the frame it's almost worth a 4 link but I really don't want to go that far. There are a few local series that require "stock suspension". I think If I leave most of it intackt I can pass.
And chuck :p well at least mine..... but mine are........ but you don't have....... sorry no excuses yours are bigger.
 

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I just saw this thread. When I originally did my 66, I cut the framerails, and spaced them in enough to run a 10 inch wheel. I didn't put a cage in it, and you could feel the car twisting up while accelerating. The guy that did the work for me said it was a total pain in the @$$ because of all of the weird angles of the factory frame. Eventually I broke the welds while out horsing around, and that's when I bought the Alston stuff. ;) Sorry, I don't have any framerails laying around, or I would hook you up.
 

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so you can see from my build thread my back tire's arn't exactly fitting, and I really want to use them.

I also want to redo part of the rear suspension. The galaxie has 2 long LCA and a single offset short UCA. Then a panhard bar for a locator.
could I take and put 2 uca in a triangle (like a 5.0 but longer) to remedy this? I have an old 4 link kit sitting that could work.
cletus66 you got some frame rails?

Thanks
I keep looking at mine and thinking I could just build both CA out of DOM with some Heim joints, and just add another upper short arm to it. I am also going to get rid of the factory coils and go coilover but so far even with eh stock suspension it's not doing to bad (granted I don't have much for power, just a warmed over 390 but still doing 1.945 60ft on MT et streets with 8.5" tread width)

Guess I hadn't thought of doing the triangulated 4link with the short upper, just don't think there is enough room to get the upper arms to work doing that.

I debate doing that or going ladder bar (and would take opinions on either one) I can ladder bar the car without back halving it.
 
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