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Discussion Starter #1
So I’m 21 years old building my first ever build, a 460 with 514 stroker kit, domed pistons in a 79 Ford bronco trying to hit the 700plus hp mark, hopefully 10.5:1 or 11:1 compression if more I’ll have to downgrade to a flat top or dished piston. and I need help learning more about the whole max valve lift on cylinder heads. So for example I’ve been looking at the afr 3820 cylinder heads and they have .850 max valve lift. So if I were to run This Howard’s cam roller with 649 intake and exhaust lift. Would those heads be way to big for that cam application?
 

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So I’m 21 years old building my first ever build, a 460 with 514 stroker kit, domed pistons in a 79 Ford bronco trying to hit the 700plus hp mark, hopefully 10.5:1 or 11:1 compression if more I’ll have to downgrade to a flat top or dished piston. and I need help learning more about the whole max valve lift on cylinder heads. So for example I’ve been looking at the afr 3820 cylinder heads and they have .850 max valve lift. So if I were to run This Howard’s cam roller with 649 intake and exhaust lift. Would those heads be way to big for that cam application?
The heads are not to big for your combo or cam all but perfect to make 700hp, BUT the valve springs are wrong for your .649 lift cam.

Is it solid or hydraulic roller?

Best thing to do is talk to Scotty J (MAD PORTER) at Parkland Auto Machine or send him pm.

Cheers, Bob
 

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In my opinion, the last thing you should buy is camshaft.

Get compression, cubes and head choice sorted out first then get a custom ground cam suited to your parts and power goals.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I’m 21 years old building my first ever build, a 460 with 514 stroker kit, domed pistons in a 79 Ford bronco trying to hit the 700plus hp mark, hopefully 10.5:1 or 11:1 compression if more I’ll have to downgrade to a flat top or dished piston. and I need help learning more about the whole max valve lift on cylinder heads. So for example I’ve been looking at the afr 3820 cylinder heads and they have .850 max valve lift. So if I were to run This Howard’s cam roller with 649 intake and exhaust lift. Would those heads be way to big for that cam application?
The heads are not to big for your combo or cam all but perfect to make 700hp, BUT the valve springs are wrong for your .649 lift cam.

Is it solid or hydraulic roller?

Best thing to do is talk to Scotty J (MAD PORTER) at Parkland Auto Machine or send him pm.

Cheers, Bob
Thanks a lot I’ll try contacting him. And it’s a solid roller cam. How can I find out what size valve springs I need?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What's the specs on the cam and who's cam?

Cheers, Bob
Howards Cam 241593-08
Cam Style:
Mechanical roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
2,800-6,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
249
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
255
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
249 int./255 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
281
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
287
Advertised Duration:
281 int./287 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.649 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.649 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.649 int./0.649 exh.
Lobe Separation:
108
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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One of the biggest and first questions is what's your intended use for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One of the biggest and first questions is what's your intended use for it?
Gonna go in my 79 bronco 4wd. so mainly offroad/mud bogging so something that will be able to take some abuse. but still be able to somewhat cruise in it if I want to. decided to go with holley sniper efi system as well. its not gonna be something that"s gonna be babied thats for sure
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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K, you really need to talk to Scotty J, he can help you out with your cam, and honestly for what your intended use is you'd be a lot better off with a torque build instead of HP build. 750-700 pony's under the hood sounds groovy and all, but if it's at an rpm that you can't use off road it doesn't help. There are plenty of other ppl here who can also help out and have built many BBF's over the years. Many of them for the same type of build you are looking for!!
 

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Pac 1243 valve springs would work well.

Have you already got the cam or just looking at this cam, If not get a custom cam from Scotty J plus he will walk your through with what other parts you need to make the combo right for your intended use.

Cheers, Bob

ps- You shouldn't buy random parts and hope it works out, as stated by NORM the cam is one of the last things you should get. Get with Scotty J........ASAP before you buy anymore parts.
 

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X3 on getting with Scott before going any further, yes I'm one of his customers. You won't be disappointed.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Pac 1243 valve springs would work well.

Have you already got the cam or just looking at this cam, If not get a custom cam from Scotty J plus he will walk your through with what other parts you need to make the combo right for your intended use.

Cheers, Bob

ps- You shouldn't buy random parts and hope it works out, as stated by NORM the cam is one of the last things you should get. Get with Scotty J........ASAP before you buy anymore parts.
Yeah I have contacted him and am messaging him right now. And no I havent ordered anything yet I’m pretty ocd on doing things like this. That’s why I came to the right place to ask questions about this kind of stuff. So many smart people on this page, and I really appreciate all the help I’ve learned a lot already on this journey on my own and hopefully will be at the point where I will be one of ones answering these kind of questions to help people. All I have is the eagle stroker kit and I bought it off a guy that never ended up using it and got a good deal on it so thought if I already got the foundation for what I’ve dreamed of, I might as well go the extra way and use the power it’s capable of. Always wanted to get into some mud pit comps and have something with some balls. Already got what I need for the drive train to be reinforced. All I’m waiting on now is getting all the correct parts I need for the engine. been really stressful figuring this kind of stuff out on my own. And I live in Canada bc in a very small town and it’s very hard trying to find someone with some really good advice around here.
 

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In my opinion, the last thing you should buy is camshaft.

Get compression, cubes and head choice sorted out first then get a custom ground cam suited to your parts and power goals.
Cam guy should be involved in selecting compression ratio...since he's the one that untimatly decides what your cylinder pressure is going to be.
 

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Yeah I have contacted him and am messaging him right now. And no I havent ordered anything yet I’m pretty ocd on doing things like this. That’s why I came to the right place to ask questions about this kind of stuff. So many smart people on this page, and I really appreciate all the help I’ve learned a lot already on this journey on my own and hopefully will be at the point where I will be one of ones answering these kind of questions to help people. All I have is the eagle stroker kit and I bought it off a guy that never ended up using it and got a good deal on it so thought if I already got the foundation for what I’ve dreamed of, I might as well go the extra way and use the power it’s capable of. Always wanted to get into some mud pit comps and have something with some balls. Already got what I need for the drive train to be reinforced. All I’m waiting on now is getting all the correct parts I need for the engine. been really stressful figuring this kind of stuff out on my own. And I live in Canada bc in a very small town and it’s very hard trying to find someone with some really good advice around here.
Don't even think of buying pistons until you have the heads nailed down.
 

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IMO, 700 hp, 'not going to be babied', in a 1/2 ton truck will be broken-down most of the time. Suggest re-assessing you expectations and goals. Can you afford 5 mpg on race gas? Is this a competition only vehicle trailered to-from events?

I second the suggestion for a lower rpm/torque related build. A 514 with good heads and appropriate cam will have plenty of balls.

You have already made a good start by asking for help here, good luck!
 

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Why would it be broke down all the time?

Putting more power in can find the fuse in the drivetrain for sure but should not be unreliable.
 

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Perhaps I'm being to negative. but yes, adding lots of power typically finds the fuse. Also depends on use, traction, driving style and so on. Mud is more forgiving than rocks.

So I'll ask, OP what's the trans, axles? lockers/gears/tires?
What do the trucks in you area have that works?
 

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I am going to stick my 2 cents in here. Actually it probably ain't worth that much. Stick with a pump gas friendly pump gas compression of 10:1. If you are going to stick with AFR heads, go with the 3816 or 3819 heads. Yes talk to Scotty about cam selection. His Hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifter setup will perfect for what you want to do.

This is doesn't mean you and toss that motor into your Bronco and be happy. I agree with the statement you will spend more time working on it than enjoying it. That is unless you take steps to improve the rest of the drivetrain. That 1/2 ton running gear ain't going to handle it. At minimum you need a Dana 60 with upgraded axles up front and a Ford 10.5 in the rear. If you have a NP205 transfer case you should be fine with a good rebuild. I wouldn't even consider the NP203 transfer case. Driveshafts contact High Angle Driveshaft. The rear driveshaft is considered short and driveshaft angles get worse if any lift is added.
 
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