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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Long time no post.
So I upgraded my heads, cam, intake and carb on my 473.

I took off the C9 heads, put on old school a429 heads, a Victor intake a 1050 dominator, and a bigger XE284H comp cams bumpstick.

It wants to run hot. I have the idle screws out a turn on each corner, and the timing is set at 32* all in by 2500. This was the timing curve I was running with the old setup.
My old iron headed mill did not have any cooling problems at all.

My Victor intake has no coolant bypass, so I'm running a 180 thermostat with the holes drilled in it from Robert Shaw, if memory serves me right.

I have some starter issues I'm dealing with, but I was wondering if I should be giving it more timing, or fattening up the mixture?
 

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Runs hot when?

Creeps at idle and low speeds?
Creeps at highway speeds?

First gen aluminum CJ heads need a bit more timing.

Std flow or high flow t stat?

Aluminum transfers heat to the coolant more easily than iron. A marginal cooling system with iron heads can be inadequate with aluminum castings.

Fan type?
Are you running vacuum advance?









Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
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Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Scotty,

I really have only run it so far in the garage while I was breaking in the cam. The headers were glowing a little after 15 minutes at 2000 rpm. When I looked at the temp gauge, it was about 210. When I shut it off, the lower hose popped off and well, made a mess. I was only running water in it though. There is no bypass in the cooling system, which kind of bugs me.
The compression with the C9 heads was 10.5:1, and it was my understanding that the a429's were the same, at 75cc.

I do have an AFM but its not wired in yet. I'm thinking between the timing and the carb, it was not happy.

Of course I had a brand new trans in it as well, so some of my time was devoted to filling that up and making sure there were no leaks.

I have some starter issues to hammer out, and the car is apart, as far as the starter is concerned.

No vacuum advance, MSD Pro Billet distributor. its a high flow thermostat with the bypass holes drilled in.
Its a shrouded flex fan. Man, this this thing was throwing some major heat off the radiator. It is an aluminum radiator, but I think it's only 2 row.

I never had an issue with the last combo, so I'm really thinking its more the tune than anything.
 

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HI Just going to throw this out there.. did you replace the Water pump? if so maybe you accidentally got a reverse rotation pump??
good luck
tim
 

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this happened to me also on my blown 545 runs fin now 190-205, I would creep to 230, I am running the aluminum heads also i checked and made sure my drivers side head gasket was deck side up, I inspected my electric pump, I used reducers, 3 different stats, I used a northern radiator, a be cool, and a frostbite, i had the timing all over the place, 3 different ignition boxes, rubber hoses and metal hoses, I set up on true -0- degrees, I degreed my cam twice i used a tarus shroud and fan, two 4000 cfm frostbite fans, and two Hayden spalls, I used water,50/50 and added water wetter used 3 different ranges of plugs, still creeped to 230 I installed a dual pass radiator from afco and a 22 lb cr cap a 180 stat and 2 1/8 hole 3pm and 9 pm the tarus cooling fan and that finally fixed it I can go out at 90 degrees and it will stay at or below 205.
 

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Leave the dist curve where it is and bump the initial 4 degrees and see what happens. My guess is the initial is too retarded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Leave the dist curve where it is and bump the initial 4 degrees and see what happens. My guess is the initial is too retarded.
That's on the list of things to change. As soon as I get my starter situation handled.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
this happened to me also on my blown 545 runs fin now 190-205, I would creep to 230, I am running the aluminum heads also i checked and made sure my drivers side head gasket was deck side up, I inspected my electric pump, I used reducers, 3 different stats, I used a northern radiator, a be cool, and a frostbite, i had the timing all over the place, 3 different ignition boxes, rubber hoses and metal hoses, I set up on true -0- degrees, I degreed my cam twice i used a tarus shroud and fan, two 4000 cfm frostbite fans, and two Hayden spalls, I used water,50/50 and added water wetter used 3 different ranges of plugs, still creeped to 230 I installed a dual pass radiator from afco and a 22 lb cr cap a 180 stat and 2 1/8 hole 3pm and 9 pm the tarus cooling fan and that finally fixed it I can go out at 90 degrees and it will stay at or below 205.
The dual pass radiator has the inlet and outlet on both sides, yes?, Or is it like a VW style with both on the same side?

The Taurus fan, what year, and how did you mount it?

Thanks!
 

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no outlet on lower drive side inlet up top passenger side--- they can set one up however you need it to be - the Taurus fan I mounted right to the radiator (engine side) with those Hayden fan mounting kits that pass through the radiator fins, and I went to jegs for a adjustable thermostatic control with a relay it works very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update.

I hooked up my A/F meter and found the idle was at around 20:1.. very very lean. I fattened it up to 14:1.
I took my thermal imager and my Raytech temp gun and confirmed that the temp reading at (below) the thermostat housing at the front of the engine was about 20* cooler than what my gauge was reporting. I have a cheap Summit temp gauge I'm going to install to verify it.
Also, I set my idle timing to 18*, it had an issue starting, so I dropped it to 16*, seems to run cooler now. Runs 220* on the gauge that is not reading right, so roughly 200*. I have not taken it down the road yet. I need to get a temp gauge I can trust first.
 
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