new pgmr mini starter grinding really bad ?
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Its not meshing w/flywheel correctly. You may have to slot the top OR the bottom hole to move it in/out.
well i think i found my problem, going back through my paper work the part numbers dont match up for the automatic. so they sent me a mt one ! i guess i'll try to take it off and send it back.
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That would be a good reason for it to be noisy.
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starter
Is it a ford pmgr? If it is then it has a factory 10 tooth drive . I rebuilt hundreds of the ford gear reductions at work and never came across a differant depth nose housing. What i have found is if it bolts up then they are going to be pretty much all the same. Talked to a relative thats been doing rebuilds{electical auto} like i did then since they first came out with the pmgf Ford one and said the same thing and he seen alot more then me. For some reason more then the old style starter the clearance drive to flywheel get moved out and is very noisy on about half i have seen. If it still does it with new the best way to add clearance is to add a 12 tooth drive. It meshes the same and takes out alot of clearance from gear being bigger and deeper. I even have used some 13 tooth drive on mustang 2s small flywheels. This way the starter is located by the plate and wont move around on you like slotting the mounting holes. Any automotive electrical place should have a drive in stock for abour $15 dollars... ED
Is it a ford pmgr? If it is then it has a factory 10 tooth drive . I rebuilt hundreds of the ford gear reductions at work and never came across a differant depth nose housing. What i have found is if it bolts up then they are going to be pretty much all the same. Talked to a relative thats been doing rebuilds{electical auto} like i did then since they first came out with the pmgf Ford one and said the same thing and he seen alot more then me. For some reason more then the old style starter the clearance drive to flywheel get moved out and is very noisy on about half i have seen. If it still does it with new the best way to add clearance is to add a 12 tooth drive. It meshes the same and takes out alot of clearance from gear being bigger and deeper. I even have used some 13 tooth drive on mustang 2s small flywheels. This way the starter is located by the plate and wont move around on you like slotting the mounting holes. Any automotive electrical place should have a drive in stock for abour $15 dollars... ED
well i looked up the part # ans they have a listing for a auto and mt ? i think the mt one is clocked to close to the flywheel and the auto one may clear fine ! if i can get the auto nose at the parts store i may try that !
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1,016 Posts
starter
Too close to starter useally means click -click no turn over. I bet you have 2 problems. Need to wire them differant or they wont engage part of the time. the solinoid on them starters require alot of amps and the key switch wont do it and jumping the wire useually causes overrun. I recommend everyone to double the post up on the firewall sel. to make it full time hot and take the empty big lug down to starter sol. switch side, #10 wire fine. Now you wont have to jump it across and can consentrate on the clearance issue. I bet money it to far from flywheel. I only seen one too close and it was with a 12 tooth drive and it worked perfect just zinged for a sec. ofter startup before got out. sounded cool but new it would eventually wear out drive clutch. Ed
Too close to starter useally means click -click no turn over. I bet you have 2 problems. Need to wire them differant or they wont engage part of the time. the solinoid on them starters require alot of amps and the key switch wont do it and jumping the wire useually causes overrun. I recommend everyone to double the post up on the firewall sel. to make it full time hot and take the empty big lug down to starter sol. switch side, #10 wire fine. Now you wont have to jump it across and can consentrate on the clearance issue. I bet money it to far from flywheel. I only seen one too close and it was with a 12 tooth drive and it worked perfect just zinged for a sec. ofter startup before got out. sounded cool but new it would eventually wear out drive clutch. Ed
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132 Posts
The housings on the automatic and the stick starters are different. the nose is offset about 10 degrees. i have run into this houndreds of times. i am a current rebuilder. also if it is not wired thr right way it will stay engaged for a few seconds after the motor starts and will tear up the starter.
whats the best way to wire it, i had to do this on my last 302 car but i have forgot what i did. when i got it it would stay engaged for a few seconds after starting !
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1,016 Posts
starter
I have seen the nose part tilted and with some clearancing with file they worked fine. I dont remember if they moved drive in or out doing this. I know people have interchanged these before from personal experiance and from reading people post on differant sites. I have seen the nose cone rub the flywheel or hit the trans bell but still mesh ok after clearancing. Well i could be wrong, after 10 yrs they could of changed the pmgrs some.,, ED
I have seen the nose part tilted and with some clearancing with file they worked fine. I dont remember if they moved drive in or out doing this. I know people have interchanged these before from personal experiance and from reading people post on differant sites. I have seen the nose cone rub the flywheel or hit the trans bell but still mesh ok after clearancing. Well i could be wrong, after 10 yrs they could of changed the pmgrs some.,, ED
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132 Posts
The centerline of the shaft is off set you cant really tell by looking at it.
to properly wire it up you take the battery cable from the solinoid on the firewall to the starter and switch sides so that the battery cable is hot all the time. then the stud that the cable originally came off gets a wire from there down to the little terminal of the new stater.
if you want i can e-mail you a diagram to help out. my e-mail is [email protected]
to properly wire it up you take the battery cable from the solinoid on the firewall to the starter and switch sides so that the battery cable is hot all the time. then the stud that the cable originally came off gets a wire from there down to the little terminal of the new stater.
if you want i can e-mail you a diagram to help out. my e-mail is [email protected]
so it wires up like a chevy ! send to [email protected] Thanks !
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132 Posts
YES pretty much like a chevy except you use a firewall solinoid and you cant jump the little terminal to the battery terminal.
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x2
x2 on the wireing. Done it like that for over 15 yrs.
x2 on the wireing. Done it like that for over 15 yrs.
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