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Newb Questions/Critique my build

1420 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  memphisrain
Hi everyone, I'm building my first BBF for a hotrod and would like to get some of your thoughts on what I'm planning. It's a pretty low budget deal, and I know my combination won't be exactly "correct" but I hope with the research I've done here and around the web I can put together a motor that will scare some women and children.

Here we go:

Car: 1930 Model A Tudor Sedan

Engine: 1972 429, freshened up with truck rods for strength, also planning on locating a set of D0Ve heads (will port/polish with Scotty's instructions), which I think will put me in the 10:1 neighborhood. I will deck the block, if needed to achieve it. Another option would be to get some flat top pistons and use the D3 heads I have, but I'd prefer to locate some D0ve's.

I also have a line on a 68 429, which would be nice, but I don't know if the guy will part with it.

Intake: So I bought a Weiand tunnel ram as an impulse buy off of ebay.

Carbs: Got two Edelbrock 600s for free, was hoping to use them.

Cam: Thinking along the lines of a Comp XE284H or Magnum 294s, but I'm open to thoughts/suggestions.

Transmission: BW T10 4 speed

Rear: 9" Ford 3.08-3.55 gears depending on what I can find


So overall how am I looking? I'm worried about the manifold and carbs being too much for the motor and never getting it to run right. Can I use a progressive linkage system with the Weiand manifold? I was looking at it and it doesn't seem like it is designed for that type of use. Should I give up on the freebies and try and find some Holley 450's?

From searching around the site, I found that the Weiand manifold can be made to work with the DOve's (I didn't realize they were for the CJ and SCJ, until after my impulse eBay purchase), is this correct?

I'm planning on using the truck rods for added strength (and possibly spinning it to 6500 vs 6000). Do I need to get the rotating assembly re-balanced when I switch the rods? Am I wasting my time with worrying about switching factory rods around?

Thanks for any help guys!

I little rough idea of what it should look like next year:

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Anytime you switch rods or pistons, its best to have it balanced or it could vibrate itself to death.
Pistons for a 429 are more expensive than for a 460 because of how few 429's there are compared to 460's.

The tunnel ram intake will work, you will want to open up the D0VE heads to the CJ size port opening.

The Edelbrock carbs will work, but they will need to be tuned significantly to work on the tunnel ram...Holley's would be better, but not a necessity.
Don't open the intake ports to CJ size; Weiand tunnel-ram manifolds come new with D0VE sized intake ports; (unless someone has already ported the one you have). Simply, MATCH the head ports to those intake manifold ports. If it has already been opened to CJ then ... well, you have little choice.

IF you are after the LOOK, then the tunnel ram will work on the street, use 1 to 1 linkage between the carbs or a very slight progressive.

The camshaft will want to be SMALL on the intake side and LARGE on the EXHAUST side for your combination so, I would advise a "custom" grind camshaft for your unique application.
Thanks for the info so far.

Just to increase my admittedly limited engine building knowledge, what is the reasoning for having a cam on the smaller side for the intake?


Thanks for the info so far.

Just to increase my admittedly limited engine building knowledge, what is the reasoning for having a cam on the smaller side for the intake?


The quick answer is because that is what it NEEDS in order to maintain manifold vaccuum and drive "half way decent" on the street with a Tunnel Ram manifold.
Thanks for the info. I'll look you up when I get to that point of the build.

Anyone else with ideas/comments?

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