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88 bronco, 460, tons
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I bought a set of brushes off Amazon for cleaning it all once it comes back. We're replacing the pushrods due to galling on the ends of a few of them. Staying with the same cam & lifters are before just new replacements. I used originally used Comp Cam's assembly lube on the cam & lifters, and Permatex Ultra Slick so i will probably use that again. The builder said he's got some good assembly lube which he can get for me, but im not sure what it is yet. I hate to say it, but i never even thought to put assembly lube on the tips of the pushrods.

The Kaase oil pump is, IMO, ruined. All sorts of scoring on the gears, and the aluminum housing.






The pics dont really do it justice, its worse than it looks. I cant imagine cleaning all that up and then expecting it to still work efficiently, so im planning on replacing it.

I have a brand new oil pump pickup still wrapped in a bag so im not even going to clean mine, im just going to swap out for the new one. Plan is to prime the pump once its on the engine, and then minutes before i run the engine for the first time, yank the distributor out and run the oil pump again, just to make sure ive got oil to the top.
 

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Not sure this holds any merit to your situation, but I am in the process of reconditioning my old 86 460, and Im going with a roller cam STRICTLY because I was warned about the quality of ALL flat tappet camshafts that come out of China. The metal is knurling/deforming and causing major problems. Engine builders association has put out this warning as well. Good luck.
 

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I bought a set of brushes off Amazon for cleaning it all once it comes back. We're replacing the pushrods due to galling on the ends of a few of them. Staying with the same cam & lifters are before just new replacements. I used originally used Comp Cam's assembly lube on the cam & lifters, and Permatex Ultra Slick so i will probably use that again. The builder said he's got some good assembly lube which he can get for me, but im not sure what it is yet. I hate to say it, but i never even thought to put assembly lube on the tips of the pushrods.

The Kaase oil pump is, IMO, ruined. All sorts of scoring on the gears, and the aluminum housing.






The pics dont really do it justice, its worse than it looks. I cant imagine cleaning all that up and then expecting it to still work efficiently, so im planning on replacing it.

I have a brand new oil pump pickup still wrapped in a bag so im not even going to clean mine, im just going to swap out for the new one. Plan is to prime the pump once its on the engine, and then minutes before i run the engine for the first time, yank the distributor out and run the oil pump again, just to make sure ive got oil to the top.
Keep in mind that when you prime the engine with oil you’re flushing away the assembly lube. In no way am I saying not to prime but don’t overdo it.
 

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88 bronco, 460, tons
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
So would you recommend not priming the engine on the stand? Because i cant say for sure how long it will take me to assemble the truck & get it ready to run from there, could be a week or two. Maybe just prime it the day im going to start it for the first time? I will of course fill the oil pump with oil on initial assembly.

Not sure this holds any merit to your situation, but I am in the process of reconditioning my old 86 460, and Im going with a roller cam STRICTLY because I was warned about the quality of ALL flat tappet camshafts that come out of China. The metal is knurling/deforming and causing major problems. Engine builders association has put out this warning as well. Good luck.
I looked into roller cams and didnt really see anything out there that was similar to the original cam i chose. Everything else seemed to come alive at much higher rpms. The builder found one from Lunati but it would have required different pushrods & stiffer valve springs, and at that point i should probably upgrade the rockers as well. It was going to end up adding a decent number to the total cost, for no real gain in HP/Tq. I probably should have went that route the first time, but now rebuilding it twice in one year the budget isnt really there. So im going to stay flat tappet, and just be extra careful this time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Ok, will do.


I picked up the engine this morning!

So next week ill start the reassembly phase. I have everything i need except an oil pump, which im going to order later today.
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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Ooh another thought... Scrub out the oil passages on the crank when you get it back too... Yeh I know it's "supposed" to be clean... But what's a few minutes of insurance worth at this point...
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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Here's the thing tho.... You can take as much care as possible, sanitize everything, even put the engine together in a "clean room" and the thing is.... The guy that just half-*** cleans stuff, uses 1/2 of the old bearings, rings and gaskets, mixes up the lifters, and winds up with the oil pan full of crud putting it back together... Usually is the one that runs for about 200,000 miles. "With an odd tick that never went away but we never worried about it, we just run it!!!!"
 

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88 bronco, 460, tons
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I have not yet. Bearings still in the box, crank still wrapped in plastic. Plastigauge arriving sunday. The little dude is home because preschool is closed due to covid, so i probably wont have time to so much as touch the engine for about a week.

Ooh another thought... Scrub out the oil passages on the crank when you get it back too... Yeh I know it's "supposed" to be clean... But what's a few minutes of insurance worth at this point...
I am absolutely going to do this. The builder pulled the galley plugs on the block and cleaned everything out then reinstalled, but im going to do another clean on the block as well "just in case".
 
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