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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It looks like I have two options for breaking in my new cam, an Elgin E-967-P: I can use my 30+ year old valve springs, or I can use my new springs that have 105 closed and 265 lbs. open (per Elgin's specs for that cam). They are a single spring, so I can't take out an inner spring.

The only reason I ask is because I don't exactly look forward to changing the springs out while in the vehicle. If I need to be broken in on the weaker springs, I'll do it.

Also, does anyone know of a decent valve spring compressor that would work well for changing the valves in the vehicle, particularly one that is not all that expensive? It only has to get used once, I hope.
 

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Break in the cam with the recommended springs.
They are mild.

Use a proper break in specific oil. ADD NOTHING TO IT!!!
Use gibbs grease on the lobes and lifter faces.

Set up the damper at 20 BTDC and drop the dizzy so that the reluctor is leaving the pick up AND the rotor is at #1.

The key is to get the engine started and running ASAP

For the life of the engine utilize a flat tappet specific oil with ZDDP. No rotella or diesel oils with are now removing additives for flat tappet cams due to Catalysts.









Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
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Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
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ParklandAutoMachine.com
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What else was included in elgins break in procedure? Typically it'll have instruction to rev the engine at various RPMs between 1500 and 2500 for 20 or 25 minutes. X2 with mad porter, those springs are fine. I've run cams in on stiffer springs than that. I personally like to pull the valve covers, and prime the pump until I see oil come out the pushrods...I've seen this take a while. When I run engine in, I like to have a vac gauge, oil pressure, and timing light (as a tach) hooked up. Just to monitor vitals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Regarding Elgin specs: There was nothing other than to use their breakin lube on lifters. No mention of ZDDP oil even.

I was planning to prime the oil pump. Seems like something everyone should do if they can. I've rebuilt engines where you can't prime.
I have Gibbs breakin oil and Gibbs grease, which is going on the cam lobes and lifter faces, and is on the wrist pins. I'm using SAE 50 VR1 on the rest.
I am running Holley Sniper with timing contol, so I have to set the software to a certain point (say 20btdc), then go out and set the distributor to fire on 20btdc with a timing light. I'll make sure I get the spark at the right point, and won't turn the engine over until ready to start.
After that, I'll enable the fuel pumps and make sure I get fuel for the prestart squirt.
I have the tune from before I rebuilt it, so I will just run that. I doubt the cam difference is going to mess anything up.
Then I'll start it, and go from 1500-2500 for 20 minutes.
I have an oil pressure gauge and timing light. I also have the Wix 51512 non-bypass oil filter, which is 21 micron. Should I run that or a bypass oil filter? My thought was that non bypass will catch all the junk if I wipe a lobe, but I am concerned I might plug the filter if that happens, so I would plan on varying the engine speed and watching oil pressure like a hawk for 20 minutes.
 

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Sounds like a solid plan to me. For future reference, engines that cannot be primed by traditional means can be primed at the oil pressure sensor bung with a pressurized container with your oil fill. They sell specialized automotive vessel for this, mighty-vac is the brand, but a new garden sprayer adapted to your fitting works well too. Back in the day we used to use a stainless steel p-can type fire extinguisher.
 

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I usually use a 5/16 socket, a really long 1/4 in extension, an adapter to hook a 1/4 in up to my drill, and just stick that on the oil pump driveshaft after pulling the distributor. No special tools involved...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I used a long 5/16 socket with 1/4 inch drive, and some extensions. Turned it by hand and got about 65psi. Started, it went to 90 until it warmed up, then it came down to 65.
 
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