I've got a 94 Mustang that I bought from a young kid as an unfinished project. It's got a mild built 429 in it. I've finally got it running good, but it overheats constantly. Yesterday in about 3-4 miles the temp hit 240*. I didn't assemble the motor, and I'm starting to think he got the head gaskets on wrong. (Everything else was bass-ackwards) What do you guys think? I really don't want to tear the top end off, but in my eyes it looks like thats the problem. Here's some info on the motor:
all stock 429 short block
ported D0OE-R heads
CompCam 270H cam running 12* advance on timing
Weiand Stealth Intake with 750 Speed Demon
2 stages of nitrous (not hooked up yet, haven't got that far)
Pro-Comp electric water pump with no thermostat
dual row alum radiator with a 25 X 17 core
2-12" pusher fans 2500 CFM total
on closer inspection, I can see the rectangular tab of the gasket sticking out from the front on the drivers side, but the passenger side has the rounded side sticking out from the front. Should the rect. tab be sticking out on both sides?
on closer inspection, I can see the rectangular tab of the gasket sticking out from the front on the drivers side, but the passenger side has the rounded side sticking out from the front. Should the rect. tab be sticking out on both sides?
I popped the valve cover off and both of the oil return passages are open. I did notice a mis-match in the holes though. Maybe 3/32"-1/8" offset to one side on both returns. Could somebody sneek a peek under their hood and see which tab is sticking out on the passenger side? I surely would appreciate it. I'm also going to stick the thermostat back in and try that, although it was running hot before I took it out. Thanks for all the help so far.
Thanks Frank and everyone else that replied. I'll be starting the tear-down tomorrow night. This is the LAST time I buy someone elses unfinished project. The whole thing has been 2 steps forward 3 steps back.
Do you know what the vintage of the short block is? The only pistons I know of for the 429 are 11+ compression and perhaps you are detonating some to cause overheating. I would pull the plugs and check for aluminum specs on the porcelin before pulling it apart.
I've been running retarded most of my life. Just ask my ex-wife. I'm running12-14* advanced per Barry Grants carb set-up advice. I also twisted and contorted myself to find out that I have a D1VE block. So this makes this a CJ/SCJ motor with I am assuming 11:1 CR. Should I try running some 100+ octane in it? Thanks again for all the help.
Whats wrong with the ProComp waterpump? I've got a filler cap inline in the upper radiator hose, since the radiator sits quite a bit lower than the top of the motor. I can open the cap with the pump running and it has good flow.
Tha pump leaked like a sieve when I got the car. It had been installed with no gaskets. I've got it all sealed up now, and its pushing alot of coolant in the right direction. I've got an inline filler cap in the top hose, so I can stick my finger in and check it. I'm picking up new head gaskets tomorrow, and I'm going to pull the top end off over the weekend. I read in another post here that the tabs should facing the same on both heads and mine aren't.
I had a problem with my car overheating and 2 weeks ago I moved my radiator forward to
make room for a taurus fan (puller) that had a built in shroud that I only had to modify a little to get it to fit real nice, now it stays at 160* if I leave the fan on. The taurus fans pull a lot of air, and the shroud makes sure it has to pull all that air through the radiator.
Just got home with the new head gaskets. My passenger side is 100% for sure on backwards. The end with square tab is marked FRONT on both sides. I hope this is at least the majority of the problem. Unfortunately I don't have enough room to move the radiator forward and put a puller fan with a shroud. I've only got about 3" to spare before I hit the water pump.Thanks again everyone.
Well, I got the head gasket changed over the weekend, and it seemed to help with the overheating problem. I also added a 1" restrictor in the thermostat housing. I'm still getting up to around 210-220*. A friend of mine that races late model suggested going with a 5/8" restrictor to slow down the coolant flow. What do you guys think? I'm running a Champion 2 row radiator. Should I consider going to a 3 or 4 row? Any input would be appreciated.
Still having overheating probs. I installed a new head gasket(correctly), and gave up on the restrictor. I went back to a 180* thermostat, and when I went for a ride today it got up to 240* before I could get back home. It will get this hot in only 4-5 miles. I also can't seem to get all the air out of the system. It will blow coolant past the inline 16# cap if I have too much coolant in it. I'm about at my wits end. Is it time to pony up for a 4 row radiator? What are you guys running?
The guage is an Autometer mechancical, the thermocouple is plumbed in directly below the thermostat in the intake. It does seem to read about 5* hot. I can see when the thermostat opens with the guage.
i havent got past the break in with mine but i am gonna try changing the by pass lines a bit. there is the short hose going from the water pump right to the intake. then the loop to replace the heater core. i believe the loop allows to much water to go right around the radiator. .....just ruminating, bobn
I just bought some 460 mustang parts from a guy and he mentioned that with the hood on the temp guage would read about 240F and with the hood off it would read around 190F.
He said the headers were making it hot?
Hood on or off it still runs 230-240*. I don't have any bypass hoses to worry about, since the car has an electric water pump and no heater.I just tried drilling 2-1/8" in the thermostat to allow minimal bypass as suggested in another thread. Still no go. This does allow me to completely fill the system though. This has got me stumped. I wish I had a fresh set of eyes to look at this. I re-torqued the intake, since I've had it through a few heat cycles since replacing the head gasket. Also looked for any possible vacuum leaks. Didn't see any.Re-set the idle, and timing. 12*advance now. It was up to 20* advance. Pulled a couple of plugs, and they are a cinnamon brown, with only a slight fuel smell. (slightly rich??) Would pulling air through the radiator instead of pushing help? I'm open to any ideas. I'm about ready to put a for sale sign on it, and go back to working on my 5.0 Lincoln.
i'd put a non-electric WP on it, just to try, and see what happens
and i think you still need the bypass to the intake.... this may be part of your problem
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