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plumbing air compressor lines

5K views 53 replies 25 participants last post by  fordsbyjay 
#1 ·
what do you guys do as far as using copper tubing for your compressor lines? i was thinking of running them 3/4 all the way around my garage with 3 or 4 outlets then to adapters. what have you guys done for an air dryer when using copper lines? is that pipe diameter good or go smaller/ or bigger? i have a 150 psi, 80 gallon compressor. i use all garage tools including spray guns- any input helps, thanks
 
#2 ·
my shop at work used SC40 1" PVC pipe 120gal air tank at 150 with no problems at each drop let the pipe go down about 1 foot from airline connections with a cut off valve so the water in the line drop below hose connection and you can blead the lines.if you get build up in the lines. I would not go smaller or you will loose air useing high cfm tools as impacks ,drills, die grinders,and things like that.PVC is cheaper than copper and can be added to alot too easier. just my 2 cents my little shop is about 10 years old and it is holding up fine.
Jim
 
#4 ·
cool. we have a plumbing shop and plenty of everything laying around, so thats why i was thinking copper. something about pressurized air and plastic makes me nervous......holding 10 years is a lil reassuring though thank you! and yes it is cheaper and faster to install.......so thats two nice things to keep in mind.....

well u guys sold me- haha
 
#11 ·
Copper "L" type. 1/2" should be plenty unless you run a BIIIG air hog tool or a long run. I run a 1/4" die grinder and a 4" air grinder just fine with 1/2" YMMV. A lot of people make a cheap drier by have in a large diameter vertical pipe near the compressor. The air slows down and cools releasing the moisture. I never did it cause I have an 80 gallon tank and my duty cycle is pretty low.

PVC is not good for air. Oils from the compressor can and will compromise the strength. In addition, when the PVC breaks it shatters and the shrapnel is like a grenade. I know of one machine shop that originally plumbed in PVC and changed out after a few years . Being shut-down several hrs for a repair is pretty expensive in the production business.
 
#12 ·
I used 3/4" copper with drop legs at each outlet with a valve to drain water. For a dryer for painting I use a water/oil seperator/dryer mounted with a quick connect that I can move to any of the outlets if needed. I also have hose reels mounted to the ceiling.

Use copper and you wont have to question it. PVC is not recommended. If your shop is subjected to freezing temps, PVC will not last long if there is water left in a line.
 
#13 · (Edited)
It's not that PVC pipe is not recommended, it's illegal! Now I don't need to hear how many years you have had it in service at your house/work, it is absolutely not to be used for any compressed gas under any circumstances. I spent 30 years as a pipefitter and I have read the warnings, and seen the aftermath of people who used it improperly. PVC pipe under pressure from compressed air is a time bomb waiting to go off. The bad thing is you won't know when it's going to explode, and it does explode, just like a shrapnel grenade. There will be sharp plastic projectiles flying around your shop. How would you feel if it left your wife or kids blind or dead. It's not worth it, use copper, iron pipe, or a plastic that is made for compressed air. The little more you spend on the right stuff is definitely worth someone's sight or life.
Please read all of this site before you decide to pipe your compressed air system.

http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
 
#21 ·
X2. As a safety consultant I must HIGHLY recommend you not use PVC. I guess my degree in Occupational Safety & Health doesn't carry as much weight as I had hoped because my brother along with most of the rest of my family and friends all have PVC in their shops. I just tell em I wont be at the funeral when that stuff goes off.
 
#15 ·
plastic sch 40

I have used the schedule 40 plastic pipe with no problems . The art casting shop nearby will wear out the 90's in the plastic from the air friction. They have die grinders that run constantaly. Have had no problems with mechanic usage for the last 9 yrs, 165-175 psi normanl line pressure- I/R T30 compressor. Tres...
 
#17 ·
Same PVC lines for somthing like 6-7 years in the Texas temp range of winters around the 10's to 30's and 100-104* heat in the summers and not one problem/failure. And even though lately I don't work out in the shop as much as I used to, the lines still see air pressure most of the time because I tend to forget to close the valve & bleed of the line pressure when I'm done for the day.

I'm not saying using PVC is right or wrong..........I'm just stating the results so far.
 
#18 ·
I'm a little disappointed and confused. I thought the people here were more intelligent and had more common sense than this. At least when shown the facts of why this should not be done under any circumstances, they would acknowledge that fact and agree something should be done to correct the situation before any damage or injuries happen. But I guess it all boils down to "I've been doing it for years and it can't happen to me". Truly an ignorant way to go through life. When that air line explodes, if you can, let us know how that worked out for you.
 
#19 ·
It doesn't suprise me one bit. It is no different than people that want a 1000 hspr to run 8's then complain they need to buy a new helmet or new belts.:confused:
 
#20 ·
AZ- i am a licensed plumber for 130 in chicago........and i share your view. i invision if i bang into that airline in the winter time (which can be -15deg or so sometimes here) and its pvc it will shatter and blow razor sharp peices all over the garage. i've broke off 4" floor drains in basements (to level with the floor for the cover to go on) and we just hit it with a hammer because it is in the concrete it shatters and if a piece hits you it cuts you open. i was really checking what size people used in copper, haha but then it sounded tempting to do in PVC. the plumbing company is my brothers with me being the main employee so i have free, ready access to anything copper i need as well as drills, torches, fittings, anything we use at work daily.
so, in copper, i will probably do most of the run in 3/4 and then some of the branches towards the ends of runs terminate it at 1/2" for the last outlet. pvc is cheap and easy but i can easily do copper and add on just as easy later........its not like water piping dealing with water/ solder issues of adding later. thanks all. does anyone use those "at the gun" disposable air dryer/filters......they are usually like a 2 or 3 pack? i seen a few filter/dryer set ups but they are like $600 this is my own home garage and thats overkill for my app----- the toss aways would do for painting, if they work?
 
#22 ·
if you guys were truly blowing about saftey with air lines there'd be NO WAY you should be recommending copper. From an all saftey standpoint it should be a rigid pipe. That said, PVC is replacing copper...eveyone will just have to accept it. Either one will work for you. IF you got money..use copper, if not...use PVC, my guess is you'll see the same performance from either.
 
#26 ·
Diggindeeper, there are three grades of copper. Type M is the thinnest and should only be used for water lines. Type L is marginal for most home compressors. Type K will easily handle 175-200 PSI.
Iron pipe, whether it be black or galvanized will handle the pressure, the only problem is the scaling and rust from moisture.
Type K copper will never give you any problems from pressure or contaminates in the system. It is a little more expensive, but it will be problem free and SAFE for as long as you can imagine.
Iron pipe will last a lifetime also, it's just that a lot of people can't thread pipe, but have access to the tools to solder the copper. And when your done with the copper, it's a beautiful looking system.
Please don't scare people away from doing it right with misinformation, get your facts straight.
 
#25 ·
main diff between plastic and copper in air line

copper splits and dumps the air no real shrapnal to get hit by

plastic explodes and dups the air and real shrapnal to get hit by

I use to work in a shop that we plumbed with plastic I never really felt comfortable with it but it has been 20 years and no failures yet

I haven't worked that in almost 15 years

my personal shop will get copper
 
#29 ·
Even if you use the thinnest copper and it fails, it will just split and not put shrapnel around the shop at hypersonic speed.
Do what you want to in your shop, you are one of the people that are to stubborn to admit when they're wrong.
Good luck to you, and I hope the PVC doesn't hurt anyone you care about.
 
#30 ·
Copper is the way to go as many others have said. I work for a large corporation that does a lot of manufacturing. If a contractor came in to do a install for air lines and he started to string PVC he would be tossed out the door ASAP. They do not meet code, they are illegal and dangerous. The buildings that I work in have had 1" copper in them for fifty years with a line pressure of 150 24/7. Don't go cheap on safety.

1/2" L rated working pressure 722 PSI @ 100F 577 PSI @ 250F
3/4" L rated working pressure 582 PSI @ 100F 466 PSI @ 250F

1/2" M rated working pressure 494 PSI @ 100F 395 PSI @ 250F
3/4" M rated working pressure 407 PSI @ 100F 326 PSI @ 250F


Supporting facts are on pages 25 and 26 of the following PDF
http://www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
 
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