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Have you done anything to the transmission? I remember about 20 years ago, a customer at the parts store had a big LTD with a built 460, and he had trouble with the high gear band. There was a transmission shop behind our store, and he welded something to keep it together. Kinda vague, I know, just something from the foggy memories.......:rolleyes:
 

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Intake?

Hey Scott, I was curious on what INT Manifold you are going to use? As you probally know, there is not much in the way of hood clearance on these cars. I have included some eng. pics from our 73.The INT used was RPM Performer with a 1" spacer. The rear of the hood had to be raised to clear the air cleaner. I have quite a lot of extra trim and some other misc peices(some NOS) left over form that car if your interested....Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Trans is a perf reman with a shift kit for now. I have an E40D with bauman controller in the works. Just have to pick it up...
B&M 2400 holeshot though I feel with the HIGH 10.9 to 1 c/r, vehicle weight and torque the stall will be higher. 3.50 gears with trak loc.

The intake is a performer RPM with the runners raised to cj height and all equalized to flow 320 to 331 per runner. (I will be using a drop base dual snorkel 5.0 HO air cleaner assembly ducted to cold air.) I picked up 25 to 35 cfm per runner flowed on the heads by doing the roof work. Runners are shaped and matched to their respective port.

Carb is a comp carbs reworked 750 flowing 820 cfm.

My dyno sims are calling for 520 to 560 HP. My gut says the 520 is more realistic.

Every intake port has been checked and they are all in the 371 to 379 range at .570 lift.

Heads will be done this weekend. I am mired in the details right now. Removing the power brake booster for bead blast and repaint, new master cylinder for looks sake, install line lock etc. It never ceases to amaze me how these projects always balloon.

The engine compartment will be the **** if I may say so.

Pics coming soon....


:D
 

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Looking good MP...............Throw that 12.99 out the window........an easy 11.99 project now. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Looking good MP...............Throw that 12.99 out the window........an easy 11.99 project now. Keep up the good work.
LOL... I am going to keep the original goal of breaking into the 12's which should be no big deal. Where in the 12's is the question. I will need to do some serious research into getting it to the ground. Car weighed 4380 before with a full iron 400 with a/c etc.

I have removed all a/c components and now have aluminum heads, intake and WP so I am hoping for 4200 lbs or less.

Would like to find a company that will build me some 5 on 5 steel wheels with some additional width for my slicks. I am going to box the trailing arms and add the shocks suggested earlier in the thread. I am not going to race this car regularly. I just want to make my goal and tweek the combo for the year at pacific raceways here is seattle. I am using my original cam choice of the 219/227 voodoo with the 1.8 high tek stainless rockers. I want this to be a stealthy driver.

I have utilised every engine masters trick I can think of to make as much power and torque with as mild a combo as I can. Kind of a 2000 to 5500 rpm max average power deal. I dont want this combo to be obnoxious at idle.

Getting close now. Hurst roll control is installed, MSD 6AL-2 installed, stealthy tach installed.
Walker dynomax ultras, 2.5" X pipe, Headers by stan at FPA are all waiting for install. 3.50 gear set trak loc etc all here as well just have to get er done...


:D
 

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Scotty remember Popular Hotrodding's project Monte1go they used aftermarket control arms on that car. I believe they were Global West pieces but it's been sooooooooo long since I read that article you may want to take a look at it for some inpsiration.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
that sure is a nice 6AL2 box you hav there. lol :D:cool::D
Yes it is good sir... You helped out a rodder in need and I thank you. Its a bit smaller than the original 6-AL so it fits really nice where it is...



:D :D :D :D :D
 

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Scotty for your wheels try Early wheel company earlywheel.com or Wheel smith at thewheelsmith.com I'm not sure if they will do your wheels but they have regular steel rims that they can make any backspace and width. There is another company in Cali that fdoes wheels but I can't find the name yet...still looking. What a cool project!!
 

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I thought the LTD's, Ranchero's, and other Fords that used 15 inch rims in the 73 era used the 4.5 inch bolt circle, and the Mercs, Lincoln, small f-series used the 5 inch pattern.
 

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Did a little bit of research and from 73-78 they used 5x5, 79 and on is 5x4.5. Everything previous from 73 is also 5x4.5. Hmm, learn something everyday.:D
 

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Fyi, Chevy pickup truck ralley wheels are (up to)15x8 w/ 5x5 bolt pattern. Ford f series is 5.5
Scott

I can help in both areas I might have a set of the Rally wheels that width and/or I know a guy who can build you what ever you want. I will measure the rims I have once I get back to the world.

Clay
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Fyi, Chevy pickup truck ralley wheels are (up to)15x8 w/ 5x5 bolt pattern. Ford f series is 5.5

If the back spacing were right that would allow me to mount my slicks. I dont give a crap whether they are cheby rims or not for racing...

Hmm. I will have to look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Just about assembled... Engine that is... :)

Funny thing about the SCA-A cylinder heads with large diameter springs and titanium retainers... Stamped steel valve covers WILL NOT fit with out 1"+ spacers. The tall motor sports valve covers I bought new are not going to fit in the engine bay believe it or not. Damned AC evaporator case...

Anyway Stan Johnson from FPA dropped by a pair of beautiful blue thunder cast valve covers. They did not want to fit either. With some massaging of the valve cover casting, turning down the retainer .060" ( it was larger than the 924 comp spring) and enlarging the bolt holes a bit with double gaskets and Viola' they fit...

Waiting for the felpro double laminated vc gaskets with steel spine to come in. With some luck I will be able to get it on the dyno next week...



:D
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Well its ready for the dyno...

Here are some more pics of the engine with some detailing.

T-316 S/S acorn cap nut and washers on the valve covers
T-316 pipe plugs in all unused intake manifold vac / water taps.

I went with the Oem spark plug wire seperators. I like the look.

I need to put a cleaning / painting on the 5.0 HO air cleaner assembly. A client told me that the MR. CLEAN magic eraser works quite well on CJ valve covers and I am going to try it on the aircleaner lid as it is aluminum.



:D
 

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5.0ho air cleaner assembly? That just seems wrong on multiple levels. Lol

Why not get the 5.0ho fender emblems to match and further throw off any unknowing competition. Lmao:D
 

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Scotty I am kinda partial to the Chrome smoothies on those early style cars and they have them in 5 on 5 from 15x6 all the way up to 15x10 and I believe they are all 4 3/4" backspacing.

And they are dirt cheap to boot!
 

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Is that the dual snorkel I sold you in 2007 or so? lol. FWIW I gave up on the aluminum lids years ago. There's a guy on eBay selling generic repop Ford air cleaner lids in chrome for $20.

If you're taking input on wheels, body-color matched widened steelies with what you have now for trim rings and caps gets my vote. (yeah I know, PITA to remove at the track..)
 
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