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Discussion Starter #1
here is what I have...

D1 block
blue thunder 100cc heads with BBC exhaust ports
10.7 CR
victor 460 intake
heads and intake port matched but no addition porting
1150 holley
comp solid roller cam
gross lift .623 in .651 out
duration at .05 244 in 255 out
hand built 2.125 primaries with 3.5 collectors equal length long tube headers

I am putting this in a 64 F100 street truck with a C6

curious as to what the software programs think this should make
 

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Discussion Starter #3
do you need more cam specs to make it more accurate?
I have the dyno sheet and its about 150 hp and tq more than your graph shows...
I will post the dyno sheet soon
 

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Discussion Starter #6

back half

more

more

will be putting on a roll pan

as it came home from sitting in blackberry bushes for the last 10 years
 

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Discussion Starter #8
motor pics


bushed lifter bores

stock vs roller cam

blue thunder intake port matched to manifold

100cc 2.25 1.88

BBC exhaust port on BBF head
 

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Truck looks good. I like the tubs you built, looks factory. I want to do the same thing on my truck eventually. I beat mine in with a hammer to make my tires fit.

What are you doin with the front suspension or are you leaving the straight axle?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah I found a box at a junk yard and cut the wheel houses out of it for the tubs...the extra width puts the wheel house just even with the frame and gives me about 24" between the frame and box

I am leaving the straight axle. I put 3" lowering mono leafs up there. I am also considering sending the axle to a place in AZ that will reforge it and drop it another 2-3". the straight axle works great for the motor placement. I am using a Canton 8qt fox body pan and the straight axle and tie rod just fit in the middle of the pan with the motor as far back as it will go with out cutting the firewall
 

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70cyclone said:
yeah I found a box at a junk yard and cut the wheel houses out of it for the tubs...the extra width puts the wheel house just even with the frame and gives me about 24" between the frame and box

I am leaving the straight axle. I put 3" lowering mono leafs up there. I am also considering sending the axle to a place in AZ that will reforge it and drop it another 2-3". the straight axle works great for the motor placement. I am using a Canton 8qt fox body pan and the straight axle and tie rod just fit in the middle of the pan with the motor as far back as it will go with out cutting the firewall
I want to do the same thing with my wheel wells. Even with the leave springs i still have more room then the tubs allow. I thought they sold a drop axle for the early 60s truck. My buddy had one on his 64. I have 3" drop i-beams on my truck and I still want to go lower but the only way is to relocate the upper pivot bolt for the i-beams and cut the spring to get the wheels straight again. Heres a few pics of my truck. Would love to build a motor like yours for it someday :D

 

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Discussion Starter #13
there is a drop axle made for it but I don't like the way they are built. I am probably going to leave it where is is now, I don't really like them on the ground as it makes it really hard to drive anywhere with out dragging something. I would also have to notch the frame over the rear axle if I go too much lower and I don't really want to do that

I built the motor for the cyclone orginally but I can't keep the 472hp 545tq 429 cobra jet cool in that car so I scrubbed that idea and started on this truck
 
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