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Discussion Starter #1
Planned build:
--IDT Ultra Block
--As-cast A460 heads
--572 cid
--DIY intake
--DIY exhaust
--Megasquirt fuel injection
--Pump gas friendly CR (10.75:1)

I finally got my IDT Ultra block in the mail on Friday ( 3-28-08 ) and brought it home. I've had my order from Lem patiently waiting at the house for a couple weeks now.



On my last engine, I made studs for the timing cover, water pump, and motor plate. That worked out so well that I decided to do it with this engine too. I used 5/16" all-thread (B7 = Grade 5) and cut them to length. I also drilled out and heli-coiled all the threads in the timing cover.




I have read that some people run into oilpan problems because of the 4-bolt mains. My Moroso FOX pan fit without a problem.



Dropping the engine in the car for the first time.



Driver's side header clearance:



Passenger side header clearance:



I relocated the radiator on this car because I was fed up with the lack-of-room between the water pump and radiator. I am very pleased with the results :).



I am going to have a custom camshaft designed for this engine. Once I get those camshaft specs, I'll enter in the information into Pipemax. Pipemax will give me specific exhaust and intake specifications. I am planning on a Tri-Y header setup.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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572

Was your engine ready for assembly when you recieved it? I want to build a 572 using the eliminator. This will be my first BBF, any input would be appreciated. Thanx..........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: 572

MadVenomm said:
Was your engine ready for assembly when you recieved it? I want to build a 572 using the eliminator. This will be my first BBF, any input would be appreciated. Thanx..........
The engine isn't assembled right now. I simply attached the heads with a couple of head bolts. I would not consider trying to assemble an engine with this block without dropping it off at a machine shop. At a very minimum, it would need bored/finish honed to match my pistons. I am driving 6+ hours to a machine shop that I'm confident in (a board member) because I want to make sure that everything gets checked out properly.

The way I understand it:

When you're dealing with hi-po parts, everything needs to be checked and double checked, and triple checked!

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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572

Michael,

The new parts look great! I look forward to seeing at the track. Will be going back in the next two weeks to try to get in the 10s and sort out a few things before the new engine goes in.

Mike
 

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Thanx...

Thanx.. for the feedback. Where did you get your rotating assembly? I would like to buy it as a kit, instead in pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: 572

545 87LX said:
Michael,

The new parts look great! I look forward to seeing at the track. Will be going back in the next two weeks to try to get in the 10s and sort out a few things before the new engine goes in.

Mike
Good luck with that Mike! I don't think my car will be at the track this year...next year should be a lot of fun though!

MadVenomm said:
hanx.. for the feedback. Where did you get your rotating assembly? I would like to buy it as a kit, instead in pieces.
I haven't bought my rotating assembly yet. There are lots of vendors on this board that can set you up with a 'package' deal. There are enough engine combos that an actual 'package' can be hard to find. But, if you talk with somebody familiar with the options, they should be able to set you up with a 'package' that'll work very nicely for your actual goals.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I made a little progress this afternoon.

I had the flanges cut for the intake manifold with a waterjet machine. Next week, I'll drill the holes in the flanges. The flanges are made from 1/2" aluminum. I made two extra so I can screw it up a couple times :D.







Now that I have my exact camshaft specs, I can start building my intake runners and plenum :D.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I spent a little time on the mill today and made some progress on the intake manifold flanges...







In two weeks, I hope to make the bosses for the flanges.

Little engine that could....

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Michael,

First you are doing a great job on your project and I hope it works out good for you.

I do want to make a suggestion and am just trying to save you some effort. Your intake flanges follow the gasket contour on the bottom which will make fabbing your valley pan more involved, plus welding that close to the gasket location will add flange distortion issues.

I don't know how much you have in those flanges, but if you decide to do them again making the bottom of the flange straight across makes the valley pan simple. Also, I'd not cut the rear water passage in the flange as it is not needed.

Finally, even with 1/2" thick flanges sometimes they need to be milled flat after welding. One trick is to not space them up as high as the gasket during fab, and then just mill them by that amount. For example if you bolt them to the head w/o gaskets and then cut .062" (not counting gasket "crush") off each side you now have a flat surface and have accounted for the gaskets.

Hope this helps,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #13
68xr7cat said:
Michael,

First you are doing a great job on your project and I hope it works out good for you.

I do want to make a suggestion and am just trying to save you some effort. Your intake flanges follow the gasket contour on the bottom which will make fabbing your valley pan more involved, plus welding that close to the gasket location will add flange distortion issues.

I don't know how much you have in those flanges, but if you decide to do them again making the bottom of the flange straight across makes the valley pan simple. Also, I'd not cut the rear water passage in the flange as it is not needed.

Finally, even with 1/2" thick flanges sometimes they need to be milled flat after welding. One trick is to not space them up as high as the gasket during fab, and then just mill them by that amount. For example if you bolt them to the head w/o gaskets and then cut .062" (not counting gasket "crush") off each side you now have a flat surface and have accounted for the gaskets.

Hope this helps,

Steve
Steve,

Those are some great suggestions and they make a lot of sense! I hadn't even considered many of those points. I have very little $$$ in those flanges and will modify the 3-d models and have a couple more cut out.

To everybody: I am always open to listen to input/suggestions. I've never done some of this stuff and am just trudging along the learning curve :D.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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I was wondering why you sold the 460 that was in there. Looks like you're putting that engineering degree to work by making your own parts. It sure is nice to have that jet and CNC at your disposal...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
jbozzelle said:
I was wondering why you sold the 460 that was in there. Looks like you're putting that engineering degree to work by making your own parts. It sure is nice to have that jet and CNC at your disposal...
Yes, that equipment is a great help. I wish I knew enough to take full advantage of it :)...

Speaking of that equipment, I spent a little time on the lathe today. I made the bosses for my intake flanges' bolts. The inner and outer bolts are at two different angles.





I'm still working on the code to make my runners. First, I'm going to machine an 'inverted' runner. Then, I'll take my aluminum sheetmetal and wrap it around the forms and weld the seam. Finally, I'll cut them to length (~5.85" for my engine).

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Ok lets see so far:
Intake Flanges
Intake Flange Bosses
Intake Runners

Wow you know alot of guys wish they were able to do the work you do. Since you have written all the CNC code for making these, you might think about selling the pieces as a kit. For the guys that can weld, but don't have access to the machines.
 

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Michael:

That is some great work you are doing. Great pics too.

More pics! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another update...

My old motor plate offset the engine to the passenger side ~1.25" and would have made the headers more difficult. I bought another front and mid plate and got them mounted today. I mounted the engine slightly lower this time (~0.125" from rack and pinion) and made sure it was level and squared up in the car (it wasn't level or straight last time...).



While I was in Colorado this weekend, I found a hood in Denver and brought it home. From the looks of it, I'm going to have plenty of room for my intake manifold to fit under a stock, V6 hood. The picture below shows the clearance with the hood completely closed (I was reaching up through the radiator opening to take the picture).



Friday, I'm going to have some new intake flanges cut out with some of the changes 68xr7cat suggested a few posts above. I'm also going to trim the front and mid plates.



I have two more days of vacation to kill next Monday and Tuesday. I hope to get a good start on my headers. The headers will have 2.25" primaries with ~35" primary length and a 19.3" collector length.

Have a good day!
Michael

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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