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Discussion Starter #21
So you would like someone that makes their living do this to supply you the information so that you can duplicate their efforts, while never paying them for what their customers would spent about 20K to do?

Not intending to be snotty....but you started it.
LOL. Isn't that what these forums are for? I thought they were here for people to ask questions and learn from.
sorry if I was wrong. sharing information is the right thing to do I always thought not hiding it
 

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Discussion Starter #22
LOL. Isn't that what these forums are for? I thought they were here for people to ask questions and learn from.
sorry if I was wrong. sharing information is the right thing to do I always thought not hiding it
I intended my question targeted to people who had this particular engine combination not necessarily engine builders themselves.
 

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LOL. Isn't that what these forums are for? I thought they were here for people to ask questions and learn from.
sorry if I was wrong. sharing information is the right thing to do I always thought not hiding it
As Amthatiam said best to give Scotty J AKA the made porter a call, he can build you one or he can supply the parts you need and build it yourself.

Cheers, Bob
 

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So you would like someone that makes their living do this to supply you the information so that you can duplicate their efforts, while never paying them for what their customers would spent about 20K to do?

Not intending to be snotty....but you started it.
Yes you do. Your arrogance is very obvious If you don’t have anything good to say be quiet
 

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Not hard at all 545ci with afr 315 heads, 11.7 comp, 258/270 @.050 .650 lift hydraulic roller with solid lifters, afr intake, 1050 carb............bang 800+hp 750+tq............all on pump gas and all done at 6000rpm.....ultimate street car!! IMO

Cheers, Bob
Thanks for your reply I’ve see on here before on another post where it was recommended to use solid roller lifters with the hydraulic roller cam why?
 

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I'm running 545 on 91 pump gas @ 10.4 to 1 with old Blue thunder heads and a solid roller that was left over in the garage, 1050 and it got 650 Hp and 650 Tq pretty much a flat curve. The motor was built 11 years ago. Well 750 is easy with some money.
 

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Thanks for your reply I’ve see on here before on another post where it was recommended to use solid roller lifters with the hydraulic roller cam why?
whay would anyone use hyd ROLLER cam with solid roller lifter,lololololol, silly

just get THE RIGHT SOLID ROLLER CAM, GEE WIZ PEOPLE ASKING FOR PROBLEMS.
 
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whay would anyone use hyd ROLLER cam with solid roller lifter,lololololol, silly

just get THE RIGHT SOLID ROLLER CAM, GEE WIZ PEOPLE ASKING FOR PROBLEMS.
I can agree with this. Unless the cam was a special grind it may not have the rams to account for the lash of the solid roller. Just use a solid roller with a tight lash if for street use. If you are worried about having to use a bronze gear on the distributor. Don't There are several sources for steel gears for use with solid roller cams. Lunati offers them for use with their Voodoo solid roller cams. For being an off the shelf cam they are close to be ideal for most users, unless you are looking to extract every ounce of power.

On the other deal about sharing information. I see both sides of this coin. We all strive for knowledge. Yes it is nice to have exact details to duplicate as it makes it easier and cheaper. But also the guys that do this for a living are not going to spoon feed people with the knowledged they have gained over the years of hard work and money. That knowledge cost money, that is how engine builders earn a living. It is not all about the labor but the knowledge that is the valuable commodity. Don't expect professional builders like Mark or Scotty to come online and say use this particular cam,heads, intake, and compression BAM you have a motor. They may even bark a little when open ended questions like this are asked.

The thing to do is to just ignore the bark and move on. Do your research READ READ READ. Develop you own ideas and create a package that you might think is good. Then come back and post with specifics asking for advice if this is the right direction to start an engine build..THEN you will get advice on trimming it to better suit what you want to achieve.

I have spent the last 5 years working in a professional engine shop, mostly dealing with Roots blown alcohol Hemi style engines. Yeah I am just the grunt there turning wrenches but have learned a ton and seen a lot. The owner is a walking encyclopedia of 40 yeas worth of information when it comes to Roots blown hemis, fuel systems, and tuning. Ninety percent of his time is spent on the phone with people looking for free advice, that is why I am there doing the grunt work. It just doesn't happen that way. I would say half of those phone calls turn into building an engine and dyno time.
 

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I can agree with this. Unless the cam was a special grind it may not have the rams to account for the lash of the solid roller. Just use a solid roller with a tight lash if for street use. If you are worried about having to use a bronze gear on the distributor. Don't There are several sources for steel gears for use with solid roller cams. Lunati offers them for use with their Voodoo solid roller cams. For being an off the shelf cam they are close to be ideal for most users, unless you are looking to extract every ounce of power.

On the other deal about sharing information. I see both sides of this coin. We all strive for knowledge. Yes it is nice to have exact details to duplicate as it makes it easier and cheaper. But also the guys that do this for a living are not going to spoon feed people with the knowledged they have gained over the years of hard work and money. That knowledge cost money, that is how engine builders earn a living. It is not all about the labor but the knowledge that is the valuable commodity. Don't expect professional builders like Mark or Scotty to come online and say use this particular cam,heads, intake, and compression BAM you have a motor. They may even bark a little when open ended questions like this are asked.

The thing to do is to just ignore the bark and move on. Do your research READ READ READ. Develop you own ideas and create a package that you might think is good. Then come back and post with specifics asking for advice if this is the right direction to start an engine build..THEN you will get advice on trimming it to better suit what you want to achieve.

I have spent the last 5 years working in a professional engine shop, mostly dealing with Roots blown alcohol Hemi style engines. Yeah I am just the grunt there turning wrenches but have learned a ton and seen a lot. The owner is a walking encyclopedia of 40 yeas worth of information when it comes to Roots blown hemis, fuel systems, and tuning. Ninety percent of his time is spent on the phone with people looking for free advice, that is why I am there doing the grunt work. It just doesn't happen that way. I would say half of those phone calls turn into building an engine and dyno time.
In all instances the goal is the same, be it a naturally aspirated street engine or a blower motor you're building at work. An engine is an air pump. The more air you pull in and blow out, the more power you make. It is no more complicated than that.

My original post was intended to be humor. But the fact is, it's true. The old saw is that "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go"...and it's as true today as is was when the first guy said it, probably before I was born.....and I'm old.

But no, I'm tired of spending hours on the phone, giving people lists of all the components required to achieve their goals, then having them go buy the parts from an internet whore that is selling them for cost plus 10%. Doing that will never cover your paycheck.

I don't mind discussing the theories involved in making a motor work....but, why should anyone here work for free?

As for the OP, you can form any opinion of me that you want. But, the fact is, I don't owe you anything.
 

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LOL. Isn't that what these forums are for? I thought they were here for people to ask questions and learn from.
sorry if I was wrong. sharing information is the right thing to do I always thought not hiding it
If you ask what something like "what head will move the most air, in a given sized engine", sure....that's what you do here. What you asked is an utterly open ended question that would best be covered in a Freelander book.
 

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I was wondering why he got so pissy about what was obviously humor. The mindless lashing out at anyone not immediately providing him with what he thought he was entitled to was a clue...
 

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I am not the only builder that utilizes SR lifters at very tight lash on HR roller lobes.
I have engines in service for 7 years and counting using this set up with ZERO ISSUES.

Why?

Shorter lifters = shorter pushrods that stay in phase with the rocker stud center-line avoiding side loading / shifting of the rocker arm.
More modest spring pressure requirements eliminate the lifters from becoming a consumable item.
No lifter pump up and stable valve train to 6700 rpm with 460# open pressure.

We have not had good results with street solid roller lobes and the attendant spring pressures for street use which is where we focus our engine combinations. The comp Extreme Marine lobes make very good power with modest lift and duration numbers.

For a racing deal SR all the way of course.


SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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In all instances the goal is the same, be it a naturally aspirated street engine or a blower motor you're building at work. An engine is an air pump. The more air you pull in and blow out, the more power you make. It is no more complicated than that.

My original post was intended to be humor. But the fact is, it's true. The old saw is that "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go"...and it's as true today as is was when the first guy said it, probably before I was born.....and I'm old.

But no, I'm tired of spending hours on the phone, giving people lists of all the components required to achieve their goals, then having them go buy the parts from an internet whore that is selling them for cost plus 10%. Doing that will never cover your paycheck.

I don't mind discussing the theories involved in making a motor work....but, why should anyone here work for free?

As for the OP, you can form any opinion of me that you want. But, the fact is, I don't owe you anything.

Though I have a reputation for being pretty free with our build combination information I've had to put the brakes on the "What parts should I use to do this or can I have a parts list to copy your XXX combo" only to have said individuals take my information, purchase from said internet whores and then after the fact ask me how to tune the damned thing or address a problem with this or that.

At that point I politely direct said individual to the point of purchase.

The flip side of that coin is helping loyal clients with their questions and months sometimes years later they trade with us. Getting harder to walk that line these days.


SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I can agree with this. Unless the cam was a special grind it may not have the rams to account for the lash of the solid roller. Just use a solid roller with a tight lash if for street use. If you are worried about having to use a bronze gear on the distributor. Don't There are several sources for steel gears for use with solid roller cams. Lunati offers them for use with their Voodoo solid roller cams. For being an off the shelf cam they are close to be ideal for most users, unless you are looking to extract every ounce of power.

On the other deal about sharing information. I see both sides of this coin. We all strive for knowledge. Yes it is nice to have exact details to duplicate as it makes it easier and cheaper. But also the guys that do this for a living are not going to spoon feed people with the knowledged they have gained over the years of hard work and money. That knowledge cost money, that is how engine builders earn a living. It is not all about the labor but the knowledge that is the valuable commodity. Don't expect professional builders like Mark or Scotty to come online and say use this particular cam,heads, intake, and compression BAM you have a motor. They may even bark a little when open ended questions like this are asked.

The thing to do is to just ignore the bark and move on. Do your research READ READ READ. Develop you own ideas and create a package that you might think is good. Then come back and post with specifics asking for advice if this is the right direction to start an engine build..THEN you will get advice on trimming it to better suit what you want to achieve.

I have spent the last 5 years working in a professional engine shop, mostly dealing with Roots blown alcohol Hemi style engines. Yeah I am just the grunt there turning wrenches but have learned a ton and seen a lot. The owner is a walking encyclopedia of 40 yeas worth of information when it comes to Roots blown hemis, fuel systems, and tuning. Ninety percent of his time is spent on the phone with people looking for free advice, that is why I am there doing the grunt work. It just doesn't happen that way. I would say half of those phone calls turn into building an engine and dyno time.
I don't really concur with them not willing to share, it's not like they will be put out of business or loose business to answering a question. or give tips, as a matter of fact I would rather use someone willing to help me and hire them to build or machine my project over an AH who thinks they know it all and what they know they won't share with anyone.I used to race drag boats and had a blown alcohol flat. I never refused help to anyone, and I kicked *** anyways, I found that if you tell them the truth they think you are lying anyways, LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #37
MP, at what rpm could you reach 900hp with the 557ci?....and would you have too change springs or leave it at 175/495

Cheers, Bob
thank you for you information, the reason I asked is because I have been talking to a man who builds and sells this combination and it sounded a little suspicious for the price and with steel heads made it not sound feasible for the price he told me
 

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thank you for you information, the reason I asked is because I have been talking to a man who builds and sells this combination and it sounded a little suspicious for the price and with steel heads made it not sound feasible for the price he told me
Scotty J, for what its worth you being generous with your knowledge is definetly not hurting your bottom line you won my confidence and future buisiness. cant buy to many custom made 385 parts or hear different combos run at jegs web site! i think what you do is great ! if it werent for people like you there would just be more LS,s to hear about
 

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The reason I chose Scotty J for my parts supplier was his open source way of helping people here without compensation. I sent him many emails with many questions before spending money with him. I first had to get comfortable with which way I was going to go, 521 or 545. I finally decided on 545 after he talked me through it. I then bought all the major parts through him, AFR heads, rotating assembly, custom cam, lifters, timing set, and when I get to putting the engine together I'll be ringing him up for the pushrods.

I'm a general contractor carpenter and give out much free information to people, I have found that it pays off quite well most times. For Scotty and those like him though due to the internet and many just wanting the "cheapest price" it can get old.

For me, the other part about buying from someone like Scott is the help after the sale in answering questions during the build process, as they say on those credit card commercials "priceless"

Dan
 

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I am not the only builder that utilizes SR lifters at very tight lash on HR roller lobes.
I have engines in service for 7 years and counting using this set up with ZERO ISSUES.

Why?

Shorter lifters = shorter pushrods that stay in phase with the rocker stud center-line avoiding side loading / shifting of the rocker arm.
More modest spring pressure requirements eliminate the lifters from becoming a consumable item.
No lifter pump up and stable valve train to 6700 rpm with 460# open pressure.

We have not had good results with street solid roller lobes and the attendant spring pressures for street use which is where we focus our engine combinations. The comp Extreme Marine lobes make very good power with modest lift and duration numbers.

For a racing deal SR all the way of course.


SJ
used 2b RHP
What i've noticed is that the extreme marine lobes you use make killer torque over some solid rollers that i've seen.

Cheers, Bob
 
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