Re-curving an HEI Ignition

This is kinda like having a conversation with myself. NBD. I think some of the issues I have experienced with my two previous HEI ignitions, related to the lack of a clean consistent 12v power supply. On one of these ignitions the module failed prematurely and I believe that early failure was related to the aforementioned lack of a clean 12v power supply. The second failure was traced to a defective tachometer that intermittently grounded out the HEI distributor. During diagnostics and repair of this failure I cut the tac wire to resolve the grounding issue and as I was examining the power wire for the HEI, I discovered a frayed connection in that circuit that could have been arcing to the engine. I have been using 16 gauge wire to power the HEI, my bad. I really like installing Bosch relays in these 56yo Ford circuits. I have them in the headlights and in both the auxiliary fuse block and primary fuse block for all the original circuits. This is what I will do for my new DUI HEI. I will install a 12 gauge wire from the pigtail on the distributor, connect that through a Delco two point plug using high temperature silicone 12 gauge stranded wire. The 12 gauge wire connects to my 40 amp Bosch relay which is powered by a 12 gauge wire from the positive battery post. The Bosch relay is triggered by an 18 gauge wire from the ignition hot post on the ignition switch. I will not put a fuse in this circuit for now. One of the tricks I have done over the years is to install a "power post" by running an 8 gauge wire from the battery positive post into the cab (this is fused @ 50 amps). The power post circuit provides a ready source of clean battery voltage in the cab, cleans up the positive post at the battery and powers both the main fuse block and the auxiliary fuse block. Comments, questions?

It seems that DUI has lost some of it's quality control. I inspected my DUI and noticed that the advance weights were loose and flopping around, closer examination revealed that the E-clips that retain the weights were missing. I retrieved a set from an old distributor and installed them. Holding the distributor and turning the gear reveals a notchy sticky condition likely caused by a misaligned busing. DUI claims they have an extra busing on the shaft for stability so hopefully this is not an important issue. The DUI instructions talk about Ford oil pump drive shafts that may be to long and cause binding. I measured the depth of the shaft drive (Female) and compared it to an old functioning distributor. The old distributor had a stop about an inch in. The DUI had no such stop and in fact the only thing stopping the oil pump shaft would be the spring pin that retains the drive gear. I have installed my Crane adjustable vacuum advance and will use the limiter cam all in to restrict the vacuum advance to about 7% total. So, 24% centrifugal, 7% vacuum and 12% mechanical advance and I should be good for the initial drive-ability test. I am at 3000 feet elevation and run this truck on 85 octane. Average daytime temprature in the summer is around 90% with 20 % humidity. An suggestions/comments.