What brand valve covers are those? I like them and want a pair. Thanks, Frank.
Yeah that's what everybody says until they find out the price. They are made by Blue Thunder and will cost a little over $300.00 with shipping..Just F.Y.I.What brand valve covers are those? I like them and want a pair. Thanks, Frank.
Concept One Pulleys..A little over 2K with every thing you see..Not cheap but works well..Like I said I have a LOT of money in this motor..Took 5 years of savings to build it..Who makes that accessory drive kit if I might ask?
Nope..460 two piece rear main seal from Ford RacingI think that have been the 351 Windsor small block seal that was put in by mistake. I would say that would give you a heck of a leak!
I'd say that's what you ordered but not what you got....Nope..460 two piece rear main seal from Ford Racing
I had two seals. The old and the new one..Measured out about the same..Both had the same part number on both and were made by Fel Pro..Unless I am unlucky twice I highly doubt that there was a mix up..I'd say that's what you ordered but not what you got....
If you set the crush height right then there is either something wrong with the block or the crank. There were some aftermarket cranks out there that leaked because the serrations were put in the wrong way. I once saw a stock crank that had the serrations missing about 1/3 of the way around it. Excessive cap cutting could lead to problems too.This is an interesting thread. I just got back from the PRI show in Orlando FL.
When I got there, I made a b-line to the Ford booth to ask about this very issue.
I've done every trick that I know of, done what Waycool Jr suggested, and still a rear main leak. I met a guy there that is head of Ford BB crate development.
He freely admitted that the rear main is an issue! He almost looked embarrassed as I talked about my problem.
He told me that they had gone so far as to grind the flange off the crank flywheel flange so that they could see better what was going on, and sure enough, he said in one situation they could actually see light coming through when a flashlight was held on the inside.
He also was aware of the seals being made too long, so that they need to be fitted like Waycool has done. He said that the tooling from that seal manufacturer was wrong, and they make seals under various names.
He did say that he has seen this problem regardless of year.
He also said that he would send me some seals that he had better luck with, but we'll see if he comes through, its only been a couple of days.
While I was there, I talked to a company that makes custom seals (I don't have the name right now, I have to dig though my 75 or so business cards!).
They make custom seals for problems like this, and the interesting thing is that they would make it with only one split, and you kind of thread it on the crank. They had an example there if one. I thought that was a good idea.
The price of the tooling was $1500, then the price of the actual seal depends on how many are bought.
Anybody interested in splitting up the cost of the tool? I'd invest the first $100 and just need to get 14 more. At this point, the frustration of that dam leak would be well worth the money!!
I'd like to hear what some of the other "pro builders" on this site do? Guys that build more than one BBF in a year or so. Do they see this issue too?
Sid