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429 ROCKER CHOICES
November 3 2000 at 3:32 PM
No score for this post the Kevster (no login)
from IP address 64.30.68.255
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey, Quick Question on valve train...
I'm refreshing a 429 TJ out of a 70 TBird for my 70 Torino n-code Conv. (just want a strong driver) and was browsing thru my PAW catalog.
I chose the Comp.Cams MAGNUM roller tip rockers because they are alot stiffer than the stamped
rollertips out there. Also because they are made
of 8620 Chrome Moly Steel. But the main reason I
picked them over stamped is because they have a
boxed area just behind the roller-tip that I know
will go a long way in preventing alittle deflection...besides, they are alot less $$$ than
the full-roller offerings... $ 142. per set !
My plan is to put in Ford Motorsport guides which
will raise the stud up alittle. I will be using
the orig. studs. and new ball-fulcrums with the little oiling grooves. I will buy new hardened rods so the ONLY problem I have is this:
To compensate for the thickness of the guide plates, and to prevent the adjuster nuts from
bottoming too soon...I need to find a nut that is counterbored...or use washers on top of the ball or a spacer like they sell for the
Small Blocks (says only available in 5/16 stud).
Are the Posi-Lok nuts counterbored at all ?????
Does anyone know of a spacer available ???
The only other alternative I can think of is to
buy replacement studs w/longer threads.
ps-
One last thing..... I will be buying new springs
but is it OK to keep the orig. keepers or do
they wear out and break ???
Also, what kind of valve seals work best ?
Many THANKS !!! Kev
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RJP
(no login)
205.188.199.179 A little help
No score for this post November 3 2000, 6:27 PM
In my opinion you should change the positive stop studs to an unshouldered stud. [I use BBC studs] Check with ARP, they have a bunch of different length studs. be sure to check rocker geometry before you run this set-up, you are raising the assembly by installing the guide plates. As far as the keepers go, replace them with machined keepers not the stamped type and while you are at it, change the retainers to a chrome/moly type. Valve stem seals? Try the Crane teflon type, you might have to machine the guides to fit.
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Bob M
(no login)
63.26.4.86 Studs Nuts & Seals
No score for this post November 11 2000, 9:57 PM
The 70 ThunderJet is a great starting point for a strong street engine. And the rockers you have chosen will last forever.
You didn't mention what type valve spring you will be using...that will be dictated by the Cam profile.
If you are using a Single spring with a dampner, just use the stock type umbrella seal, the only reason to go to the teflon is if there's not enough room inside the spring for a normal seal. If you need a double spring, then your spring seats will need to be machined for the inner spring, so at the same time the guide needs machining for the teflon seal which presses down onto the guide.
Use BBChevy 7/16" studs...stock ones will do, but the ARPs are better. The stock retainers and new stock keepers are ok for a stock spring, but buy chrome-moly retainers and hardened keepers for performance valvesprings.
Hope this helps.
Bob
November 3 2000 at 3:32 PM
No score for this post the Kevster (no login)
from IP address 64.30.68.255
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey, Quick Question on valve train...
I'm refreshing a 429 TJ out of a 70 TBird for my 70 Torino n-code Conv. (just want a strong driver) and was browsing thru my PAW catalog.
I chose the Comp.Cams MAGNUM roller tip rockers because they are alot stiffer than the stamped
rollertips out there. Also because they are made
of 8620 Chrome Moly Steel. But the main reason I
picked them over stamped is because they have a
boxed area just behind the roller-tip that I know
will go a long way in preventing alittle deflection...besides, they are alot less $$$ than
the full-roller offerings... $ 142. per set !
My plan is to put in Ford Motorsport guides which
will raise the stud up alittle. I will be using
the orig. studs. and new ball-fulcrums with the little oiling grooves. I will buy new hardened rods so the ONLY problem I have is this:
To compensate for the thickness of the guide plates, and to prevent the adjuster nuts from
bottoming too soon...I need to find a nut that is counterbored...or use washers on top of the ball or a spacer like they sell for the
Small Blocks (says only available in 5/16 stud).
Are the Posi-Lok nuts counterbored at all ?????
Does anyone know of a spacer available ???
The only other alternative I can think of is to
buy replacement studs w/longer threads.
ps-
One last thing..... I will be buying new springs
but is it OK to keep the orig. keepers or do
they wear out and break ???
Also, what kind of valve seals work best ?
Many THANKS !!! Kev
Score 1 2 3 4 5 (5=Excellent) Edit Message Delete Message Lock Thread Respond to this message
Author Reply
RJP
(no login)
205.188.199.179 A little help
No score for this post November 3 2000, 6:27 PM
In my opinion you should change the positive stop studs to an unshouldered stud. [I use BBC studs] Check with ARP, they have a bunch of different length studs. be sure to check rocker geometry before you run this set-up, you are raising the assembly by installing the guide plates. As far as the keepers go, replace them with machined keepers not the stamped type and while you are at it, change the retainers to a chrome/moly type. Valve stem seals? Try the Crane teflon type, you might have to machine the guides to fit.
Score 1 2 3 4 5 (5=Excellent) Edit Message Delete Message Lock Thread Respond to this message
Bob M
(no login)
63.26.4.86 Studs Nuts & Seals
No score for this post November 11 2000, 9:57 PM
The 70 ThunderJet is a great starting point for a strong street engine. And the rockers you have chosen will last forever.
You didn't mention what type valve spring you will be using...that will be dictated by the Cam profile.
If you are using a Single spring with a dampner, just use the stock type umbrella seal, the only reason to go to the teflon is if there's not enough room inside the spring for a normal seal. If you need a double spring, then your spring seats will need to be machined for the inner spring, so at the same time the guide needs machining for the teflon seal which presses down onto the guide.
Use BBChevy 7/16" studs...stock ones will do, but the ARPs are better. The stock retainers and new stock keepers are ok for a stock spring, but buy chrome-moly retainers and hardened keepers for performance valvesprings.
Hope this helps.
Bob
