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i'm using a ford racing roller retainer, i don't know if the one you linked to is made by ford or if it's a cheap copy. one thing to think about is that you should make sure you are using a good billet gear set, i used cloyes and had to machine .085 off the back of the top gear to get the end play right. most people run a bronze retainer.
 

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I've run several Milodon gear drives in my motors and that looks like the ones that came with them (in apearance any way). Like Paul said, a bronze thrust will work for most set ups. My Danny Bee came with the needle torrington thrust, so I'm running it.
Rob
 

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we install them anytime we use a roller cam,
 

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I've run mine for 35k mi with no problems. I also had to machine some material off my Cloyes set, but the instructions come with the bearing.

Cheers
 

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I've never had a problem with the stock cast iron thrust plate. With that said I like to use a timing set with a bronze washer on the back. My feelings agree with Paul's in that I don't like to put a needle bearing in the engine if I don't have to because a bronze washer is pretty darn foolproof and it doesn't have a whole bunch of hard needles that could possibly escape sometime or another even though I've never had one fail on me...
 

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So, can you use the bronze washer with the Danny Bee or do you have to use the needle bearing?
 

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I've never had a problem with the stock cast iron thrust plate.
In my opinion they are not necessary and add a lot of moving parts to the inside of your engine for little return. The bronze thrust plate is a single piece of material is fine for 98% of the builds out there.

Paul
I agree with dave Paul. People assume the roller/needle piece is better. But the truth, unless you are doing something really unusual, the bronze plate is more reliable and durable.
 

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Take a look at the bearing assembly in the new style drive......they no longer have the torrington style bearings....they are a captured/contained bearing.....same as what is in many automatic transmissions.
 
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