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Discussion Starter #1
# 9 brg is ford part#E6DZ -7G178-A or timken # FH-58073
#7&8 are GM# 9436851 and the one for the front planetery is Ford # F81Z-7A166-AA
Changing any of the other thrust washers will not help as they are not loaded or shouldn't be .
# 9 -shorten the oneway race to 1.010"
#8- machine the rear hub to fit the O.D of brg & I.D .050" smaller thanI.D.of brg .050" deep, machine back side of rear planetary .030" deep x.050" larger than O.D. of brg
# 7-machine the frt side of the planetary .040" deep same o.d. of the brg ( the brg is .140" thick & the stock thrust washer is .062", most C6's have way to much endplay , you want to have between .030-.045 end play when done , the orginal thrust washer race on the sungear shell can be removed to get the other .040" clearance here if neccesary)
# 5 Front planetrary already has 2 factory torringtons all you have to change there is the one thrust washer , the planetary needs the snout turned down .010" approx for I.D. of brg to fit (planetary's vary here)then machine face .040" deep x .050" larger than the O.D. of the brg , on the forward ring gear hub machine a groove .058" deep the same O.D. as the brg and .050"smaller than the I.D( Note the .050" on theses is for oil inlet clearance)

All cut should be done with a good carbide cut as the pins that are being trimmed are tool steel

Any Questions email me at [email protected]

Pics http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392074
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392073
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392072
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392071
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392070


Sorry about the delay in sending
Frank Merkl
 

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Darrin
C4 is easy done.Have a look over on fordmuscle .com in the sticky posts in the C4 forum and the instuctions i posted are there.
 

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On the C6 when you roller-ize the planetary gears do you machine the stock sprag race in the back or do you substitute one from another trans, E40D?

This looks EXACTLY like what's been done to Noelke's C6's that he uses in his monster truck and it's never caused any problems at all in that application. What about the front planetary set having 3 gears is that really ok for a high horsepower application? At least two of his transmissions are like that 4 gears in the low gear set, 3 in 2nd.

Thanks for the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dave ,I machine the stock sprag race, and the 3pinion planetery's are plenty strong , I've never seen one hurt ,now on the low ratio gear sets it's a different story I've seen the planetary's explode but I've yet to see a stock ratio planertary ever hurt
Frank
 

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I do think Noelke broke a set of planetaries in one of his transmissions one time, I think it was the front set and it tore out the splines. It only happened one time so it was an isolated problem. I think the only hard parts he's ever broken have been an input shaft, a set of planetaries and a few converter sprags.

The C6 parts are amazingly strong!

 

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Is the advantage of rollerizing to reduce frictional loss and/or improve strength? Reduced friction loss seems like the obvious answer. However, I know little about powertrain which is why I ask.
 

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Thunderchild said:
Is the advantage of rollerizing to reduce frictional loss and/or improve strength? Reduced friction loss seems like the obvious answer. However, I know little about powertrain which is why I ask.
You got it :wink:
 

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Frank I went into photobucket and I typed your name in severalways to look at those picks but no luck I tried fmerkl, frankmerkl merkl, fmerkel, no luck!!!

# 9 brg is ford part#E6DZ -7G178-A or timken # FH-58073
#7&8 are GM# 9436851 and the one for the front planetery is Ford # F81Z-7A166-AA
Changing any of the other thrust washers will not help as they are not loaded or shouldn't be .
# 9 -shorten the oneway race to 1.010"
#8- machine the rear hub to fit the O.D of brg & I.D .050" smaller thanI.D.of brg .050" deep, machine back side of rear planetary .030" deep x.050" larger than O.D. of brg
# 7-machine the frt side of the planetary .040" deep same o.d. of the brg ( the brg is .140" thick & the stock thrust washer is .062", most C6's have way to much endplay , you want to have between .030-.045 end play when done , the orginal thrust washer race on the sungear shell can be removed to get the other .040" clearance here if neccesary)
# 5 Front planetrary already has 2 factory torringtons all you have to change there is the one thrust washer , the planetary needs the snout turned down .010" approx for I.D. of brg to fit (planetary's vary here)then machine face .040" deep x .050" larger than the O.D. of the brg , on the forward ring gear hub machine a groove .058" deep the same O.D. as the brg and .050"smaller than the I.D( Note the .050" on theses is for oil inlet clearance)

All cut should be done with a good carbide cut as the pins that are being trimmed are tool steel

Any Questions email me at [email protected]

Pics http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392074
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392073
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392072
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392071
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392070


Sorry about the delay in sending
Frank Merkl
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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306 Posts
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/C6_Parts_Blow_Up_Diagram.htm
Based on this diagram I included in this post is there anyway Frank or somebody that understand how to rollerise the c6 can show me on the diagram where new parts are going and parts need machining I know this can help me explain to my machinist and help other newbie to. would probably need to print off and re-scan if possible




# 9 brg is ford part#E6DZ -7G178-A or timken # FH-58073
#7&8 are GM# 9436851 and the one for the front planetery is Ford # F81Z-7A166-AA
Changing any of the other thrust washers will not help as they are not loaded or shouldn't be .
# 9 -shorten the oneway race to 1.010"
#8- machine the rear hub to fit the O.D of brg & I.D .050" smaller thanI.D.of brg .050" deep, machine back side of rear planetary .030" deep x.050" larger than O.D. of brg
# 7-machine the frt side of the planetary .040" deep same o.d. of the brg ( the brg is .140" thick & the stock thrust washer is .062", most C6's have way to much endplay , you want to have between .030-.045 end play when done , the orginal thrust washer race on the sungear shell can be removed to get the other .040" clearance here if neccesary)
# 5 Front planetrary already has 2 factory torringtons all you have to change there is the one thrust washer , the planetary needs the snout turned down .010" approx for I.D. of brg to fit (planetary's vary here)then machine face .040" deep x .050" larger than the O.D. of the brg , on the forward ring gear hub machine a groove .058" deep the same O.D. as the brg and .050"smaller than the I.D( Note the .050" on theses is for oil inlet clearance)

All cut should be done with a good carbide cut as the pins that are being trimmed are tool steel

Any Questions email me at [email protected]

Pics http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392074
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392073
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392072
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392071
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4392070


Sorry about the delay in sending
Frank Merkl
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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306 Posts
Frank is it a good Idea to soak those BRG like the band and clutches in some tranny fluid before putting everything back together so that it gets lubed inside of the brg????.



Frank I went into photobucket and I typed your name in severalways to look at those picks but no luck I tried fmerkl, frankmerkl merkl, fmerkel, no luck!!!
 
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