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Well this afternoon went alot smoother than the first. The other weekend the best it ran was [email protected] with a 1.25 60' time & that was running real lean. Went from 37 to 38 nozzle jets & the car responded with a [email protected] with a 1.21 60" time. Changed to 39 nozzle jets & went [email protected] w/a 1.20 60'. Not far from last years best of [email protected] w/ 1.17 60'. The new cam definitely makes hp at higher rpms. The motor pulls really hard coming up to the gear change(7000 rpm). I know the 4.29 gear I have is right for 1/4 mile but I am definitely under geared for 1/8 mile. Another option is advancing the cam a couple of degrees. It is installed 112. But I need to get the chassis sorted out. It still spins,hooks,spins, then it is goes. Don't need to add any bottom end until I get that figured out. Mabe I can get to Virginia Motorsports Park & make a few 1/4 mile passes. Still a good day of racing. Car came home shiny,no hurt parts, & no hurt people. Now to get ready to go a few rounds.... :D
 
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It is a Vanishing Point Race Cars tube chassis. It has Strange external adj. struts up front & 4 link in rear w/Santhuff ext. dbl. adj. shocks. Also has an anti roll bar.The car weighs 2600 lbs w/driver. Rick I tried to call you yesterday but couldn't get a hold of you. Did you run at Hertford Friday night? I didn't know if you got the heads back on your engine. :D
 

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This may not apply to your car, but the last time I fought that "spin, hook, spin, hook" problem, I added a bit more pinion angle. Huge difference for me.
 

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TopSportsman916 said:
Rick I tried to call you yesterday but couldn't get a hold of you. Did you run at Hertford Friday night? I didn't know if you got the heads back on your engine. :D
no, didn't get the heads back. Had to reorder the valve spring cups and they won't be here until Monday. Should have them back by Tues at the latest and then I'll get them on the car in time for Friday night.
 

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Shocks & stuff.....

Nice going Chris!
Where do you have the shocks set at top & bottom, how high off the ground are the wheelie bars set, how far out is the instant center, and would you describe the 4-link setting as agressive or lazy?

The Santhuff's on a car I worked on were initally set at about 6 sweeps back from "full tight" on the tops (extension), and 5 clicks back from "full tight" on the bottoms (compression). The instant center was around 42-46" out. Front struts adjusted 1/3 tight. With this setup the car hooked good straigt motor (a little violent though), but spun with the fogger. The car was hitting the suspension a little too hard & the single wheel wheelie bar was unloading the slicks at first hit.

In the end to calm it down, the I.C. ended up around the 48-52" range (I think). The Shocks were a little tighter on the tops & a little looser on the bottoms (Bottom adjustment helped stop the wheelie bar from unloading the slicks). And the front struts were adjusted about 2/3 tight.

These settings might not apply to your car/setup because every car is different.
 
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Dave, I appreciate the reply & I will be posting answers to your questions sometime today. I have to get ready for church & don't have the time to get my records out with all the info. :D
 
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Ok here is my info :IC lengthis 47.45". IC height is 5.38". Front struts are 2 turns from full soft on extension. Rear shocks are 2 from full tight on extension & 4 from full tight on compression. Wheelie bars are set at 5 1/2" off the ground. I have thought about it & I think I should reverse the rear shock settings. Go tighter on compression & looser on extension. What does everyone think??? :?
 

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TopSportsman916 said:
It is a Vanishing Point Race Cars tube chassis. It has Strange external adj. struts up front & 4 link in rear w/Santhuff ext. dbl. adj. shocks. Also has an anti roll bar.The car weighs 2600 lbs w/driver. Rick I tried to call you yesterday but couldn't get a hold of you. Did you run at Hertford Friday night? I didn't know if you got the heads back on your engine. :D
Do you have any pics of the front strut set up? I'd like to see it if you don't mind.

JS
 

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Re: specs

I agree the shock tops (extension/rebound) need to be a little looser. This should free up the suspension's first movement, (extension to smack the slick).

Also agree with Buddy that the bottoms need to be looser as well. If a shock is set too stiff on the bottoms (compression/bump) the wheelie bars might unload the slicks. A real stiff bump setting might not alloy the shock to re-compress fast enough as the car gets onto the wheelie bars.

On the Santhuff's I like counting the clicks and sweeps starting from "full tight" because with the Santhuff design you would swear the knob is going to screw all the way out & fall out of the shock body before you ever get to "full soft" (LOL).

Don't mess with the 4-link untill you see where a number of different shock settings take you.

Are you using the C07 Hoosier? Do you have any video of the launch showing the slick & fenderwell?
 
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Discussion Starter #13
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Jerry here is a picture of the front suspension. After I read my log book on my shock settings , I wondered if I had bumped my head when I set them. My buddy watching, my butt, & the data logger all agree on whats happening. The car hooks & picks the tires up 1"or so,squats & shocks compress, spins & front end comes down, hooks & shocks extend then shocks compress & the car squats & spins again. Then it hooks but does spin the tires slightly on the gear change. That is why I am contemplating either leaving the compression where it is (4 from full tight) or go 2 clicks tighter but loosening the extension(2 clicks from full tight) to mabe 6 from full tight. By the way Dave, how many clicks does it take to get to full loose on the Santhuffs? I got worried something was going to come apart!! LOL!! It seems to me if I can make it harder to compress the shock & easier to extend ,this will plant weight on the tires & keep them planted. I do agree on the wheelie bar comment. That is another factor to consider. I honestly feel this car has the potential for a 1.14 - 1.15 60' time if I can get it to hook better.Oh yeah, I run Goodyear 2556's(17"X33") with a D-6 compound. Thanks to all of you for your comments. It does help getting different perspectives on this. :D One thing since this pic. I put lighter springs to get the car to ride height. They were 350 lb springs & changed to 300lb. Still sits just a little high. I may try some 250 lb springs later.
 

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Chris, how old and how many runs are on the tires? The most we ever got from a set of goodyears was about 25 good runs. Also what is your starting line rpm? Some shocks-4-link setting work better with more power. Was you shocks valveing set for your car or a pro-mod car?
 
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Buddy, The tires had 40 passes prior to Saturday. Now they have a total of 43 passes. I was wondering about that myself. My old car ran Goodyear 1984(14"X32")D-5 compound. I could only get 40-50 pases on them & the sidewalls would be shot. That was launching 2800 lbs pegged on the convertor(5700rpm) in Super Gas. Last year at Outer Banks my average 60' times were 1.19-1.20. So I don't think the tires have gone yet. I had 1.21 then a 1.20 60 ' time.
 

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O/T, but what are the little struts attached to the lower a arm?

:D
 
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Rick, you are right. They are shock travel sensors. I run them at all 4 corners. :D
 

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good beer slicks

Chris, I think Buddy might be onto something with the goodyears being kinda tired. It can seem like "magic" that they lose their compound over the winter, even with half the tread depth holes still left, (Ahem,......Hoosier, Hoosier, Hoosier!).

Santhuff adjustment on the tops from full tight to full loose is kinda limited buy how small a tool you use to sweep/turn the adjuster in the window. With a small allen wrench, I get about 18-20 sweeps before the wrench can't be installed anymore.
On the bottoms I never tried past 25 clicks from full tight, got worried the valve knob would fall out of the shock (LOL).
 

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I would play with the shocks first, our 4-link is at 46and 6.5. we have Koni's the bottom is 3 from full soft and the top is 4 windrows from full stiff.
 
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