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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Would like to get some opinions on which stage of shift kit for my transmission and application, I have the rebuild kit from Broader and it came with the SK 6 shift kit as mentioned in the title, I am not a fan of neck breaking tire chirping shifts, that just breaks things, and I want the trans to live behind the engine in a heavy car. My thinking is either 2nd or 3rd stage, bear in mind I do not have a point of reference as I heven't thought about or even touched a shift kit in close to 30 years....Thanks in advance

Dan

1971 Lincoln Mark III
521 (when done) so opinions based on build when done
650 +/- HP
2.80 Trac lok currently going to 3.25
29-1/2" rear tire diameter
street only, mix of town highway, I live in the north east corridor so traffic is inevitable
 

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Replied to email D.


SJ

used 2b RHP



:D
 

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What torque converter you using?
What is the rest of the build? Number clutches in each pack, particularly high/reverse clutch.
What servo & lever ? What front band?
The stage 4 will give you a good shift would be my choice. It is basically what most of the shift kits do. In a heavy car I believe you need the cutback modified .
As a reference Transgo and B&M mod the cutback in their competition type kits

For your use the shift command could be done also but prob not essential
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Going to go with a 12" 2500 stall
Low/reverse 5
Forward 5
Reverse/high 4
L servo
F lever
2-1/4 carbon kevlar band
The rebuild kit is from broader, it's their 500 HP kit with the #9 torrington and the above along with new vacuume modulator, seals etc.etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is the shift quality during normal driving on stage four? I haven't read to deeply on the valve body yet, saving it for last after I get the trans back together and the bench cleared. What is shift command?
 

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That setup is basically same as Transgo stage 2 . Shifts will be crisp , not harsh .
Shift command is manual first at any speed . A stock trans you could shift to 1 at speed but it won't select 1st until around 30MPH from memory

Line pressure is still modulated based on vacuum/load so that helps keep part throttle pressure a tad lower to give a nice shift
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the reply Greg,
Based on your input I am going with stage (4) four, questions, the instructions say to use small yellow spring rather than the new green, if I install the small yellow it is clear to me that once the plate is bolted down the servo valve will be locked in place....am I missing something or is this correct and I should move on.

Also, for stage four it is an "option" to modify/cut out small section of servo partition though when I read the instructions it sounds more like it should be done....since it stated as an option I would like to know the difference between doing it and not....Thanks

Dan
 

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The yellow spring is what is called a blocker . You are correct it will block that valve .
On those two the servo regulator and the copper pipe , I usually machine two aluminium plugs and block both .

Ok now that partition ..
If you look at the servo reg valve , once the green spring blocks its movement , that allows oil to flow through that valve and out again. If you look at the partition , it is directly below the servo reg valve. Cutting the partition give a bypass to eliminate oil having to flow up through the valve , so yes gives a slightly shorter path and a bit firmer shift again

Here is a vid a guy I helped some time ago, he'd had years of issues trying to get it to shift right automatically .
It had the cutout for that partition.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Greg,
Thank you for all the time, the link to the guy you and Stuart helped, and the videos, all were very helpful in putting this trans back together. I believe I have everytning where it is suppesed to go. I screwed up the first time cutting the partition. I used my dremel with a metal cutter bit, the mistake I made was I put the bit into the tool to close to the chuck, while consentrating on being carful not to damage anything with the bit I wasn't paying attention to the chuck and managed to gouge the surface where it would have caused a cross leak, said more than a couple f*cks, had to pull the valve body out of the 71 and use that half, real glad I had a spare....

Anyway, I got it all back together and will be putting the trans in the car in the next week or two. I'll let you know if I got it right or not : )
Thank you again.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I got the transmission in and have driven it for a few days, real happy with the results, the shift points are so much better than the old trans (no surprise) and the shifts are what Greg said and I would call crisp, and it shifts quickly. I've put a few hundred miles on it and couldn't be happier. I went with full synthetic Valvoline Maxlife since I'm a Valvoline guy and it handles heat better. I have a stack cooler that I'm going to be putting in, I'm collecting fittings and lines and working out how I'm going to mount it.

I also decided to go with the trans command option, figured since I was in that deep why not, happy with that also. This was not a difficult project for me, did allot of reading, watched the BadShoe video a bunch of times, and with some help from Greg turned out really well. Hapyness.

Dan
 
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