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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok purchased a custom cam years ago for a 545-557 that was going to be in a 3800 pound car with a C6 slush box... This motor will now be going in a 2400lb car with a custom TK0 5spd should I switch to a new cam or just run this and find out what happens?

Heres the specs on the cam>>>
Duration. 301 intake 305 exhaust
Duration @.050 248 intake 252 exhaust lobe sep of 112.0
Valve Lift .579 intake.579 exhaust

Cam is Hydrolic Roller and cut for 1.7 rockers.

Rockers im runing are roller 1.7's

Heads are Dove-C and ported professionally flow was around 300 on intake @.600 intake and 176 on the exhaust... 2.25 intake valve 1.75 exhaust
what should I expect for power output and how well should this cam work? What to expect for characteristics of it?
I wrote on the cam card run addvanced 4deg but cant remember why and if its the cam or crank thats runing advanced LOL...
compressions around 10.5 :1
thanks for any info you can give me... Phil Ferkey.
 

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If that cam is in a 545 or 557 and it is going in the cobra in the picture, it will be fine. It is going to be a handfull to drive with all that torque. You are going to be too fast for that roll cage anyway, so a bigger,higher horsepower cam isn't needed, Randy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are going to be too fast for that roll cage anyway.
True this is my first roadster from FFR with a efi boss 347 the next one that Im building for the 545 will be FFR's challenge series roadster that will have a full cage... the one pictured crated 400hp at the crank and pushed the car to a 12.02 on street tires spining through the 60ft only pulled a 1.62 60'.
 

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Sweet Cobra! Why not a hydraulic roller? Well, from what I can understand, (I've never run one) the whole reason to run a roller is to be able to get more aggressive opening and closing ramp angles and to get more gross lift potential and a solid lifter won't pump up at high rpm's. Hydraulic lifters are more forgiving (wear/adjustment wise) than solids. I've read that in order to run hydraulic rollers in a BBF they need to be alot taller than a solid roller or a flat tappet lifter and your rocker/push rod geometry goes south real fast and that leaves you with a lower RPM window to work with (not that a hydraulic lifter likes high RPM's any way). Another factor to be considered is the maintenance on the roller wheels them selves. To me, if you want to stay in like the .500"ish lift range and its a street/strip cam, stay with a flat tappet solid lifter. If you are going to build a race motor then a solid roller is the way to go.......IMHO.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the info white lightning. Im not a big fan of high rpm motors any way even the boss 347 in this car I only turn up around 6,000 and is runing a ford efi setup on it... The bad part about my cam I think for the big block is Im runing an EFI setup on it to and think Im going to have a ton of dyno time to get it to run properly... dont worry I dont plan on using the two stages of nitrous untill I have a Big Stuff 3 efi setup and another custom cam cut for it...

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So what should I expect for rpm ranges and HP and TRQ outputs? (at the crank)
I have 48lb injectors now and hate to have to large or small of injectors makes it difficult to tune with to large and sucks if you get it on the dyno and dont have enough fuel...that and have to reprogram your MAF sensor. any input is greatly welcomed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So what should I expect for HP and TRQ outputs? (at the crank) no nitrous... I know my current intake is probly not matched well to the cam...
 
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