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How bad-*** of a stall converter can I run and still be able to drive it on the street. if its at 3000 rpms am I gonna burn up a tranny? i want to know how far I can go before I tear up my tranny getting a cheesburger on the way back from the drag strip
 

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4400 stall here with a 10 inch & no problems, my trans temp stays about 160-170 deg.
 

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TheLastStarfighter said:
How bad-*** of a stall converter can I run and still be able to drive it on the street. if its at 3000 rpms am I gonna burn up a tranny? i want to know how far I can go before I tear up my tranny getting a cheesburger on the way back from the drag strip

Heat kills tranny's, not stall speed. So get yourself a good tranny cooler, hook up a tranny gauge and watch your temps. At 200 degrees I watch it like a hawk and if it ever gets to 240 I change tranny fluid.

No problems here....... 4500 stall. :lol:
 

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depends on what your goals are. Just because the torque converter can stall that high, doesn't mean the car wont move, as everyone has indicated. It does mean there is drive train loss, and heat being built, but your also getting torque multiplication.

With the lower HP cars and lock-up converters in new style transmissions, there is really no issue, the torque converter doesn't slip once the tranny is in drive/O-drive. With the early style transmissions, if the stall is higher than the cruise RPM, your loseing drive train efficency and going to lose a lot of fuel milage.

For a "STREET" car a tighter 3000 stall is generally considerd about the top of the envelope. Not to say that there aren't people out there driving cars/trucks on the street with 5000 RPM stall converter applications. But you can be sure they are not the most efficent when it comes to just plane ole cruising.
 

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For the street, the best scenario is to be able to use a transmission which has high gear convertor lock-up with a clutch in the convertor.
Several companies offwr a 10" 3500 rpm stall convertor with a lock-up clutch for the AOD; of course to make the AOD a prefered trans you will need to convert to the FRPP high first speed ratio, high strength gear set.
 

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Too many factors to know for sure...

For example, I run a 2600rpm stall converter in my truck (Blown 93 Lightning) with an E4OD and prefer to keep the converter unlocked below 60mph regardless of gear when using this as a daily driver. I find the lockup engage/disengage very annoying.

This was all well and good and there's no heating problems on flat street driving.

However, when towing a buddy's car and trailer, I found that I had to make damn sure to get it over 60mph to lock the converter and not drop below 45mph (unlock point) in order not to send the transmission temperature skyrocketing while pulling a grade in 3rd or 4th gear. All that slip with all that load builds a ton of heat. After that experience, I added a tow/haul calibration to my switch chip. In tow/haul, it locks the converter in every gear above 25mph and won't unlock it until 10mph.

So, my point is...you have to think through exactly what you're doing with the vehicle, how much it weighs, how you drive it, and where... Then make the decision. If my truck had no lockup converter, I'd have been pulling over and waiting to the transmission to cool half way up that grade.
 

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Wow, I run a measly 2500 stall and do a lot of street driving. This is the first "high" stall converter I've ever run and I decided that I'd never put anything higher than a 3K stall in a pavement pounder. I can't imagine driving around with the stall some of you guys are running. :lol: I have just a small cooler now (changing to a larger cooler this weekend) and have no trouble with temps around town. It does get toasty when I'm pulling someone out of the mud or really getting on it in a mud pit. I'm hoping the new cooler will solve that problem.
 

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I've got a TCI Super Street Fighter 10" behind my 351C. It's a 99% drag car but it does have a current plate on it. Put the street tires on it an off we go. The 10" flash stalls to about 3300. It feels a little bit like stuck in first gear if you're putting around the neighborhood but you get used to it quick. I don't think anything about putting 15 lbs in the slicks and taking off to the parts store on Saturday morning. I take it to cruise night every chance I get, at the last one it was 95F and we made two circuits - about 6 miles - in bumper-to-bumper traffic. No problems, unless you count the screws falling out of the firewall that held the throttle linkage in place LOL.
 

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When I bought my first stall converter, I was also concerned about its streetability. Now, three years after the fact, I wish I had a higher stall and plan on sending my current convertor back to be stalled higher.

I currently have a 2,800 rpm stall behind approximately 525 hp. I used to have the engine/tranny in a 5,500 lb 85 Bronco with 5.13's, Detroit, and 38.5" tires. I now have the engine/tranny in a 96 Mustang. I think 3,300 is what I'm shooting for next time around.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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I have a 5600+ in my GT and street drive it some. I drive it back and forth to the track all the time, and go to cruises and such with it. Overall I don't see much of a problem unless the vehicle is very heavy and you have to get up onto the convertor quite a bit at every stop. I also don't see much problems with hightway speeds.

Brenden Howe
 
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