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Discussion Starter #1
I had a db electrical starter. It either fried and caused a short or the other way around.

I have seen people praise the Oreilly Ultima, however, here it is approximately the same price as a Tuff Stuff or Powermaster. Im not sure I should risk another DB...any thoughts with 12:6:1 compression on a 503cid? Space is tight n regards to the headers.
 

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POWER MASTER

I have always ran a stock starter up to a few years ago, 15.or more to 1 comp, never and issue

now a power master,works great
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like I was wrong. The starter seems fine, after pulling it and testing directly from the battery. The signal cable from the firewall solenoid had a bad connector. I am just going to replace both cables to the starter for sake of argument, alternator cable, etc. And clean everything up so I know all connections including ground are solid.
 

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Ive had pretty good luck with my Summit Racing high torque starter. It’s comparable to the Powermaster that I previously used.
I use Summit PMGR starters and haven't had any issues. I have one that is about 20 years old, only issue is that it's missing an ear after losing a bolt. It's at the local starter place where the guys are trying to find a replacement nose if possible. The one on the dragster has been in use 3 years. 28 degrees lead, 11.8:1, no start retard - no problems.

Personally, I won't buy Powermaster. I have one, it's a problem child.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I put the db back in, but it wasnt cranking fast and the starter wire got hot. The engine wont start. I replaced the starter with a tuff stuff unit tonight and it barely cranks the engine at all. I can measure ground off of the starter bolt. Ive tripple checked for shorts.... I am coming up with nothing. 😞
 

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Are you using good large gauge cables or parts store replacements?



SJ
used 2b RHP

:D
 

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Scott, it is a cable from Oreilly's on the starter. My battery cable from the trunk until my cable branches off is definitely better quality.

I am thinking the 2nd starter may be engaging too far... But just sounds like drag on the motor.

If you are running a cable from the trunk to the front of the vehicle it has to be very large diameter to avoid voltage drop. Think 0 gauge.

When starter cables get hot they are either too small or the starter is dragging and defective.

Oreilly's battery cables are too small.

SJ
 

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For sake of argument, I am going to use the current cable from block ground to starter bolt....might as well. I have it and dont need more repeats. Ill go back to the db starter.

Are you running the battery ground to the frame and picking up in the engine compartment?


SJ
 

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I am using the pwm 9505xs slings my 871 blown 460 over good and I am using 0 gauge to the ford relay and 0 to the starter I am also using 0 gauge on the neg from the trunk to the starter bolt. good combo for me bu t I do half to run my ignition on a toggle fires right up
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have 1ott aka 0 gauge from the trunk to ground and distribution block. I bought a 3ft piece of US made 2gauge copper wire for the starter. I believe bigger than 2 gauge is going to get cooked by the header. The tuff stuff is going back, the db is back in. The box the tuff stuff unit came in is smashed.

Maybe it was battered during shipping. I now know I wasnt feeding it enough, but wasnt willing to risk a 2nd chance on it.

Thanks for the advice Scott.
 
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