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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just bought a 460 from my coworker. He said it come out of a '69 Lincoln. My plan is to bore/stroke it out to over 500 ci. My goal is 600 plus hp and tq at the crank with a relatively mild and street friendly build. This is my first engine build so I have a lot to learn. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I called John Kasse Racing and they said they could build me a balanced rotating assembly spec'd to my liking for $3-3.5k. Does that sound good? Do I need a new crankshaft if I'm stroking the motor, or can I reuse the original? They also said to take measurements of the bores and deck height before we proceed. What's the best way to go about taking those measurements?

I plan to tear it apart and put it back together again with all the new parts, after all the machine work/cleanup has been done of course. I've always wanted to learn how to put an engine together so finally I decided to just go for it. This will eventually go in a 69-70 Mustang or a Torino btw. But for now I'm just gonna focus on the motor which is sitting on a stand in my garage right now

Edit: Oh and John Kasse Racing said they don't recommend going over 4 1/2 stroke or something like that because it would be a lot of stress (based on what I'm trying to do with it I guess) and they said I should go with 30 over for the bore. But I'm always looking for more opinions

Cheers!
 

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Do you really want to take a chance on building your 1st engine on a performance build?

What's your budget for this build?

Kaase might be expensive to some, but there's a reason why.........one of the best in the business!!

There are a few builders on here that can build what you want at a good price.

This is my suggestion

521ci or 528ci
afr 280 heads
rpm or torker ll intake
950 apd carb
flat tappet hyd
228/240......580/560 lift cam peak around 5500rpm
10.2 or 10.5 comp pump gas
1 7/8 or 2 inch headers
2500-3000 stall
3.25 or 3.55
perfect street car manners 620+hp 650+tq

Cheers,Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Do you really want to take a chance on building your 1st engine on a performance build?

What's your budget for this build?

Kaase might be expensive to some, but there's a reason why.........one of the best in the business!!

There are a few builders on here that can build what you want at a good price.

This is my suggestion

521ci or 528ci
afr 280 heads
rpm or torker ll intake
950 apd carb
flat tappet hyd
228/240......580/560 lift cam peak around 5500rpm
10.2 or 10.5 comp pump gas
1 7/8 or 2 inch headers
2500-3000 stall
3.25 or 3.55
perfect street car manners 620+hp 650+tq

Cheers,Bob
Thanks for the reply Bob

I do want to take a chance on this. I would really like to put this engine together myself. Will it be ahrder because it's perfromance? Or just more expensive? What do you consider to be a good price to have one of the guys on here do my engine for me?

To answer your question on budget, I was hoping to keep it under $5,000. But I have no idea. Do you think that's doable?

Edit: Oh and btw, the guy who sold me the engine said he will help me when I need it. He used to work in a machine shop and knows how to throw together engines like they are nothing. That should help alot. I understand I will need to get specific tools and pay close attention to details like clearances, etc
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I started tearing down the engine today. Got all the rod caps off except number 3 and number 8. Need to turn the crankshaft to access those. But the crankshaft bolt is missing. Any recommendations on where to find one or what size it should be?
 

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$3500 for a Kaase short block is a deal.

I don't want to discourage you but there is a lot to building a motor and getting it right the first time. Especially one that puts out 600 HP. I know everybody has to start somewhere but the fact you asked the question about reusing the crank for a stroker motor tells me you might have a tough go at the first build. People rarely save money when learning to rebuild an engine the right way the first time. It's not just bolting parts together. It's making sure the ring gaps are correct, all bolts were lubricated & torqued properly, all piston rings go into the bores nice & easy, making sure pushrod length & rocker arm geometry are correct, etc...etc...

I personally think a good assembled short block or even a long block from Kaase or a quality vendor on this site would be money wisely spent in the long run. Concentrate on the things more easy to manage on the first go round like, headers, carb, distributor, etc.. That will be challenging enough for a first build.

Anyway that is my 2 cents. I hope it helps. Good luck with the build!

I
 

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Discussion Starter #6
$3500 for a Kaase short block is a deal.

I don't want to discourage you but there is a lot to building a motor and getting it right the first time. Especially one that puts out 600 HP. I know everybody has to start somewhere but the fact you asked the question about reusing the crank for a stroker motor tells me you might have a tough go at the first build. People rarely save money when learning to rebuild an engine the right way the first time. It's not just bolting parts together. It's making sure the ring gaps are correct, all bolts were lubricated & torqued properly, all piston rings go into the bores nice & easy, making sure pushrod length & rocker arm geometry are correct, etc...etc...

I personally think a good assembled short block or even a long block from Kaase or a quality vendor on this site would be money wisely spent in the long run. Concentrate on the things more easy to manage on the first go round like, headers, carb, distributor, etc.. That will be challenging enough for a first build.

Anyway that is my 2 cents. I hope it helps. Good luck with the build!
I
I got nothing but time for this project. I'm not on a tight budget. I'm not a deadline. And I'm not doing this to save money. The whole purpose of this project is because I've always wanted to learn how to build my own classic car from the ground up. You're right everybody has to start somewhere so it might as well be here. If I buy a pre-assembled short block that would defeat the whole purpose for me, I might as well just open up an Autotrader and start looking for a whole turn-key car. I do really appreciate your comment and advice though, I'll try to keep in mind how difficult this will be so I don't start taking costly shortcuts. And I have knowledgeable people around me (plus this forum) to help every step along the way. When I fire this thing up and go for a cruise down the road it will mean so much more to me because of all of my blood, sweat, tears and beer drops that went into this car literally, and just to be able to intimately know every single nut and bolt in this moving unit of an automobile
 

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Streetrenegade
Ill revive this for ya.
Youre gonna be in for WAY over $5K, but thats not the point is it. 3-3500 for the rotating assembly isnt bad. Take Kaase's advice, get Scotty to grind you a cam and set the dist up, money well spent. There are other stroker kits that arent bad either, I have a CHP 521 and am happy so far. Before you get the rotating assembly, settle in on the heads you are gonna use, that will determine the flycuts in the pistons, you will need to know that going in. Head and valve-train setup will get really involved, its really kinda fun to try to figure it out.
Not sure on the crank bolt size, tight thread though.
I agree with bob460 on the build, with one exception, I would go with a little bigger torque converter, like 3500.
Stock cranks can be offset cut to get small stroker, but better to just get a new one.
Dont skimp on the carb, these love cfm, and you will need to get a fully adjustable one. ( imho )
Best of luck!
Rodney
 

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I'm putting together very similar build Bob460 suggested above except it's a Scat 545 rotating assembly, similar custom ground cam and AFR 280 heads, Torker 2, Holley Exflow 900 CFM Sniper, Sniper distributor, Paul Kane oil pump, FPA headers....on and on, I'm knocking on the $10,000.00 dollar door and haven't had a lick of machine work done yet, I figure I'll be into the engine between $11-12,000.00 by the time it is done. Many other ancillery parts such as the roller rockers (comp) Canton oil pan, pushrods, are figured into this. Just wanted to say this so you get a better idea of the cost for the build and HP you want.

I chose the Mad Porter for parts and advise, he has been exceptional with service, knowledge, and patience with questions. His open source attitude and help to others is why I chose him. He said the same of my build, that it will be in the 600-625 HP range and @ 650 ft lbs torque with room to grow if I choose later to add more HP.

The engine is going into a 71 Lincoln Mark III with a C6 I rebuilt myself with a kit from Broader, I will be getting the torque converter from him or Edge 2500 stall and 3.25 gears out back. Like you I'm doing all the work myself. In my younger years I was an auto mechanic for a living, general tech, state inspection licensed and a few other certifications. I have rebuilt more than a few engines myself, though not an "engine builder" by any stretch, just talented enough to follow the instructions of people like Scott (Mad Porter) and others on this site.

I like your attitude for wanting to do most of the work yourself, take your time, ask questions, especially the ones you think are stupid and you should be good to go. I look forward to hearing your progress.

Dan
 

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I have built many engines back in the day, I can tell you that building a stroker is not for the novice, it's a lot of custom massaging to get things right.
AKA, it just doesnt bolt together! 1 screw up and lots of $$ down the drain.
 

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Do you really want to take a chance on building your 1st engine on a performance build?

What's your budget for this build?

Kaase might be expensive to some, but there's a reason why.........one of the best in the business!!

There are a few builders on here that can build what you want at a good price.

This is my suggestion

521ci or 528ci
afr 280 heads
rpm or torker ll intake
950 apd carb
flat tappet hyd
228/240......580/560 lift cam peak around 5500rpm
10.2 or 10.5 comp pump gas
1 7/8 or 2 inch headers
2500-3000 stall
3.25 or 3.55
perfect street car manners 620+hp 650+tq

Cheers,Bob

not enough cam, would be a disapointment. , that efectivly would be smaller then a scj solid cam being hyd.

silly to run a hyd cam in an engine like that
 

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not enough cam, would be a disapointment. , that efectivly would be smaller then a scj solid cam being hyd.

silly to run a hyd cam in an engine like that
The AFR heads don't need a big cam to make power, each to there own..........lot's of ways to skin a cat.....lol.

Afr 280 heads are the real deal for a street car IMO................no need for 6500-7000rpm.

Cheers, Bob
 

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The AFR heads don't need a big cam to make power, each to there own..........lot's of ways to skin a cat.....lol.

Afr 280 heads are the real deal for a street car IMO................no need for 6500-7000rpm.

Cheers, Bob
I know what your saying Bob, But I would never use a hyd in a hi perf build
 
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