Surface rust on fresh bores

2550 Views 11 Replies 9 Participants Last post by tconnection, Jun 30, 2010

tvolsr1

Discussion Starter · Jun 27, 2010

I just picked up my block from the machine shop and I've found some surface rust on the fresh bore job. 1. Is this a big deal? 2. What's the proper way to clean it off?

I also need to paint the block. Any suggestions on the proper procedure?

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fordrka1975

· #2 · Jun 27, 2010

rust

tvolsr1 said:
I just picked up my block from the machine shop and I've found some surface rust on the fresh bore job. 1. Is this a big deal? 2. What's the proper way to clean it off?

I also need to paint the block. Any suggestions on the proper procedure?

I would use sos pad and a little water then spray with crc or wd40 all over. Then clean surface to be painted with brakleen and air dry and paint right away. you must keep bare surfaces covered some oil or penitrent or rust is inevitable.Randy.

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Lem Evans

· #3 · Jun 28, 2010

ATF or WD 40....wipe untill the color is gone from the towel.

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tvolsr1

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 28, 2010

Thanks for the input guys. I'm gonna get started on assembly tomorrow.

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Declawed69

· #5 · Jun 28, 2010

I've actually never had much success with oil, or penetrant keeping rust away and I keep everything bagged. I switched to LPS 3 which forms a waxy film when dry, just gotta remember to clean before doing work or assembly.

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CutawayAl

· #6 · Jun 28, 2010

Lem Evans said:
ATF or WD 40....wipe untill the color is gone from the towel.

If the rusting really is light, do as Lem advised. Any residue that method doesn't remove will not be a problem.

Declawed69 said:
I've actually never had much success with oil, or penetrant keeping rust away and I keep everything bagged. I switched to LPS 3 which forms a waxy film when dry, just gotta remember to clean before doing work or assembly.

Oils are ok for a short time in a good environment. LPS 3 is more work to clean off but a heavy application works a LOT better than oils. As mentioned, bagging also makes a big difference too. If you have access to desiccants putting one in the bag can also help, but don't let the desiccant lay on the metal because that can cause localized rusting.

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138

· #7 · Jun 28, 2010

coming out of winter, with the temps going up and down causes major condensation... for some it is not an option, for others the bitching and moaning is no competition against a fresh rust free piece =)

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95lightiningguy

· #8 · Jun 28, 2010

Most of the machine work that was done on my block is 2 years old. I have kept it "double" bagged and oil coated. The double bags create a vapor barrier that helps keep the moisture out.

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Declawed69

· #9 · Jun 28, 2010 (Edited)

95lightiningguy said:
I have kept it "double" bagged and oil coated. The double bags create a vapor barrier that helps keep the moisture out.

Hell, I had mine double bagged too. Normally I checked and re-oiled at least once a week since I always seem to be lacking the time to assemble. But that time I let it go three weeks and returned to see rust in all the bores, naturally I was pissed and I scrubbed the hell out of it but the ugly *** stains are still there. It is functional though.

Funny thing is I never had rust problems before final machining was done and I really didn't pay much attention to it at all. The block was dry before bagging too, unscrewed the core plugs and blew it out prior to letting air dry. I swear it rusted more where the oil collected.

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95lightiningguy

· #10 · Jun 28, 2010

Declawed69 said:
Hell, I had mine double bagged too. Normally I checked and re-oiled at least once a week since I always seem to be lacking the time to assemble. But that time I let it go three weeks and returned to see rust in all the bores, naturally I was pissed and I scrubbed the hell out of it but the ugly *** stains are still there. It is functional though.

Funny thing is I never had rust problems before final machining was done and I really didn't pay much attention to it at all. The block was dry before bagging too, unscrewed the core plugs and blew it out prior to letting air dry. I swear it rusted more where the oil collected.

Location says SoCal? Maybe if you live close to the ocean the salt in the air didnt help.

I've checked mine once a month and oiled as needed.

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BBFmavrick

· #11 · Jun 28, 2010

No big deal about the surface rust. You have to thoroughly clean the block anyway including the bores. Like Lem said ,just spray them down w/WD40 and wipe each bore w/paper towels until you get 0 amount of color on the towel. If U R not assemblying the engine right away just spray down until you are ready to assemble.

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tconnection

· #12 · Jun 30, 2010

I have always wiped the bores with assembly lub or wheel bearing grease. It will sit forever in a few bags with some oil dry in a small paper bag taped up.

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