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Guy's, Like most,I learned lots from the speakers at the Tech Seminar.
But what ONE thing surprised you the most :?: Me, not being a Professional racer or engine builder, I guess the one thing that startled me the most was, Kasse talking about firing a engine up after a sitting spell and it sucking the rust up into the cylinders from the steel headers. :shock: That was the first time I had heard that. (he said a engine w/cam w/lots of duration). Rick
 

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That's a good one. Adney with bearing clearance & oil weight. Also some of the tools ideas that Jon Kaase had.
 

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Worried Now

You guys touched on two of the subjects that are going to cause me to lose sleep at night. My car takes about a day to remove and reinstall the headers so taking them off everytime it sits for awhile is not a good option. I'm trying to determine how to clean them out without removing them. The funny thing was one of the guys I brought along runs a 351C in a front engine dragster with an old set of zoomies. He said the last time he took it apart it had rust between the rings and he couldn't figure out where it came from. The other bearing clearance issue has me a little concerned because I didn't have that much clearance. My crank was a little tighter than .0025". The knowledge is great but now I know too much :D .
 

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Well guys I wasn't there :cry: but were any suggestions given on how to overcome these potentail problems? The bearing clearances, I have an idea on what should be done. Which I'm sure should be addressed upon assembly. Any suggestions on oil selection and or what grade weights are recommended? My engine was done prior to me buying the car. So I'm out in left field on what my clearances were set at. The rust thing from headers... well thats another thing. What was recommended? :? Any other tidbits please chime in. I did give Damon an e-mail for a DVD but haven't heard anything on that. No doubt it's probably a little too soon. Thanks guys!
 

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Cleaning

I'm thinking of making a small plate that I can slide between the header flange and the port opening after loosening the headers slightly. I might drill a hole in the top edge of the plate about halfway down then drill another hole to meet that one on the header side of the plate. Then I could run a "snake" attached to a drill with a wire brush on it from the collector side. The plate would keep me from going too far and getting into the port. After I cleaned it with the wire brush, I could blow air in the hole from the top of the plate to flush it out. My plate would have to be very thin because I don't have much room to separate the headers from the head before they hit things like a-arms. A shop vac at the collector end could also be used but I don't think it would suck the rust close to the port which is most likely to get sucked into the motor.
 

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not to down play anyones talk but I enjoyed Adneys the most.

I think it was mostly because of relevance.....I knew I was taking my rotating assy to the balancer today so I learned a lot!

Otherwise I dont think I could say anyone was better. It was all great info.

Thanks again to everyone who made it possible.
 

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Have them Coated
 

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Single carb guys, make an adapter plate you can hook the Air Compressor up to. Pressureise the top of the engine with compressed air, turn engine over by hand, as intake valve opens cylinder will blow full of air, slow speed of rotation won't develope any vacume in the cylinder with the exhaust valve open.. Each cylinder will vent and blow down most dust/debries. If headers are soo bad that compressed 100psi air aint going to blow em out. Get new (Coated headers) Get some caps, so you can hot cap em, the headers will cool, and the whole combination will be in vacume till ya fire it up.
 

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Rust

PLEASE coat your headers!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dont be a tight ***. It just is not cost effective.

Seriously, this is a big part of the reason we price our stuff the way we do. We try NOT to sell anything without coating. NitroPlate coating,inside and out is included in all of our prices.

I have not seen ANY advantage of stainless steel compared to coated mild steel for 95% of the people. A Comp or Pro Stocker racer may require 20 gage stainless or a turbo aplication may require 16 gage stainless,but most of the time that is it
Stainless is not faster, more durable or lighter at equal wall thickeness. Just cost a lot more.

www.dragsterheaders.com
 

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Tim,

Thanks for coming to the Winter Tech Seminar and having your headers on display. We appreciate it, and by the way, you give good advice.

Also, your notepad & etc. went out of here today via FedEx. You should get it Wed.

Take care,
 

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Re: Rust

THE FAB SHOP said:
PLEASE coat your headers!!!!!!!!!!!!



I'll definitely have my next set coated. This set is just too far gone to apply a coating and I don't want to build a new set until I can also elminate my shock towers which isn't in the budget this year.
 

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Vizard (if I recall correctly, but might have been Yunick) told a story once of dynoing an engine & dropping 25+ hp with some parts changes...swapped everything back and was still down the same amount...finally realized that they had swapped on some shitty old dyno headers that were heavily rusted on the inside.

Myself, I learned long ago to pull the headers & check them if they sat for any length of time....had a hostile mouse fill a header full of nut shells & other debris, which promptly got sucked into the cylinders & proceeded to screw things up. Bastards. :mrgreen:
 

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Jon was talking about engines that had alot of cam lobe separation that sucked in at start up NOT low over lap cams.
 

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I would say that I was pleasantly surprised with all of the speakers. Adney's points on bearing clearance, Jon's points on rings and homemade tools, and the Quick Fuel presentation on how the metering blocks operate, all were very informative.

You can remove the rust by pulling the spark plugs. Roll the engine over until just the exhaust valve was open and take an air hose and apply air through the spark plug hole.
 

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Re: Rust

THE FAB SHOP said:
PLEASE coat your headers!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dont be a tight ***. It just is not cost effective.

Seriously, this is a big part of the reason we price our stuff the way we do. We try NOT to sell anything without coating. NitroPlate coating,inside and out is included in all of our prices.

I have not seen ANY advantage of stainless steel compared to coated mild steel for 95% of the people. A Comp or Pro Stocker racer may require 20 gage stainless or a turbo aplication may require 16 gage stainless,but most of the time that is it
Stainless is not faster, more durable or lighter at equal wall thickeness. Just cost a lot more.

www.dragsterheaders.com
My headers happen to be almost 12 years old. It is a little late for coating them now. They are still healthy and I don't waste things. BTW I would rephrase what you said, calling potential future customers "tight asses" is just a little bit of a turn off.

Thanks Kim, if that is all the more it would take no biggy. I will hook up my paint gun and blast air down them before I put them on, that should take most of it out. i might scrub the the easy part to reach with a bottle brush I have here.
 

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Re: Rust

jpierce55 said:
THE FAB SHOP said:
PLEASE coat your headers!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dont be a tight ***. It just is not cost effective.

Seriously, this is a big part of the reason we price our stuff the way we do. We try NOT to sell anything without coating. NitroPlate coating,inside and out is included in all of our prices.

I have not seen ANY advantage of stainless steel compared to coated mild steel for 95% of the people. A Comp or Pro Stocker racer may require 20 gage stainless or a turbo aplication may require 16 gage stainless,but most of the time that is it
Stainless is not faster, more durable or lighter at equal wall thickeness. Just cost a lot more.

www.dragsterheaders.com
My headers happen to be almost 12 years old. It is a little late for coating them now. They are still healthy and I don't waste things. BTW I would rephrase what you said, calling potential future customers "tight asses" is just a little bit of a turn off.

Thanks Kim, if that is all the more it would take no biggy. I will hook up my paint gun and blast air down them before I put them on, that should take most of it out. i might scrub the the easy part to reach with a bottle brush I have here.
I don't believe he called anyone a tight ***, he just recomended against being one..... It not worth not having the Coating applied.
 
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