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Discussion Starter #1
How much difference temperature wise is normal between Holes? For Instance my #1 and #5 run about 180 compared to #2 and #6 which run about 235 to 245 measured on the cermic part of the plug . Thats 50 to 60 degrees but 1 and 5 are on the end near the fan and the water jacket . Is this a normal difference ? I ask because I have got a little more shake then I like at idle but clears up around 1200. Thanks for input
 

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Is your vacuum gauge reading steady?
Cranking compression test?

SJ
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Do as Rich suggested. Check temp at header flange primary or manifold at flange.

SJ
used 2b RHP



 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok tonight I did a warm engine Cranking Compression test on All 8 Cylinders . 1 through 8 were between 150 and and 165 . I do not have a leak down tester but I may soon. I cranked engine over between 3 and 6 times compression built fast. Plugs were mostly black with smoot. I did add a bottle of seafoam a couple days ago. Engine is definitely missing at idle but clears up above 1500.
Tonight clearly 1 and 5 were missing at idle but maybe more holes as well. Reved too a steady 2000 rpm smooth no bumping. I set idle at 650 and rechecked timing with vac advance plugged.
Set at 14BFTDC. I also changed the plugs after test. Spark seems weak to me when plug wire is off plug . Stumped
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One more thought. My truck ran pretty good before all the work I did , so whats the culprit

I installed new straight up Timing Chain dot to dot to replace retarded chain.

I Installed a New Recurved Dizzy and set timing At 14 with 34 Total.

I Installed a new Holley 600 Street Warrior Carburetor. On a 1 inch Aluminum spacer.

Engine was Desmoged with the tube plugged right behind the carb where the big rubber hose connected from the Pump.

port under Carb was plugged

now I am thinking maybe carburetor. Thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok. I got the dizzy out of phase while doing the chain. I had quite a few exciting carb backfires before figuring out . Could this have done damage to the manifold intake gasket.
Thanks
 

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A friend had a deal exactly like yours,fresh rebuild.The thing had a random miss at idle,really couldn't nail down which hole(s),ran halfway decent otherwise but down on power IMO.He stuck some kind of a performance cam in it and I was convinced it was too much lifter preload.There WAS too much so I shimmed the rockers to get what I liked...no help.So on to the vacuum leak thing,did the dangerous starting fluid test on the carb base,top of the intake,crank case.motor did pick up on the carb base but again.nothing definitive as to location.It was EGR delete and his gaskets weren't the greatest,replaced them with big thick pieces I had laying around.Big improvement but not there yet.The primary shaft and it's bore were super sloppy,stuck another known good carb on it,now runs great.The problem,vacuum leak on carb base and throttle shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My Carb is new plus I did not use start fluid and I water tested the carb base. I just took the intake off today. Bolts were not loose but definitely not tight . Above and below pan is very clean. I think I will just reuse the Iron intake with the pan . Can I just get a Ford oem Gasket set except use RTV at the China Wall?? Thanks for your input
 
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