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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys my machinest says that when he checked the valves in my
tfs heads that the intake valves were either bent or warped? he said that he thought they were more warped than bent and was able to regrind the intake valves but said that they were "wobbley" . he didn't check the runout on the exhuast valves because he said they were too "pitted" and were bad and needed replacing. These are Ferria valves that came in the heads from TF. i went on ahead and ordered new intake and exhuast valves anyway which were Ferria intake @ 2.250 and the A-429 cobra jet exhuast tulip valves @1.76. my question is i saw no contact area on the pistons or valves that would cause them to be bent and they failed the gas port test, so warped valve heads, could this come from heat build up, if so maybe i need a better intake valve than Ferria?
 

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Chip,

I see warped valves quite often with the heads that come in here for repair. It seems to be more common with the guys that are running nitrous and have some very high exhaust temperatures. It is very common with the exhaust valves in engines that run nitro-methane. Full Bore Racing Products makes or made a tool for straightening heat warped valves. A valve that is warped by an amount as small as .004", looks and grinds awful in a valve grinding machine.

Most stainless steel valves will not rust simply because of the "stainless" EV4 or EV8 alloys. The rusting occurs on the seats of the heads due to condensation and/or humidity and it comes from the collector back up the header primary pipes to the exhaust seat, after the engine is shut off and sits for a while.

I tell my guys and gal to stuff an old bath towel up in the collector after they are done racing and the headers have cooled down some.

Hope this helps,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
THANKS CHARLIE, WILL DO
 

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I had some Ferrea exhaust valves do some sort of weird corrosion on the back sides of their heads. It looked sort of like rust on some of the valves but on others it had more of a blistered look.

I have a tough time believing that high EGT's are the cause of the problem unless they are causing the valve to stick in the guide and get hit. How high are the temps? I've had valves look reasonably good after two seasons of circle track running with EGT's of around 1500 degrees. I replaced them but none were bent or really looking all that much the worse for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dave,
As far as the temps i don't have an exhuast gas temp guage so i cant be sure. the heads have about 150 passes on them and yes they had a pitted or blistered look. my machinest says he thinks its from heat as well as the intake heads being warped from heat also. just his opinion. he says the exhuast valves would probley break if i re-installed them in the heads. i'm probley going to go back to the Manley valves if these new intakes do the same thing down the road. the Ford racing tulip exhuast should fare better, we will see. the ferrea intakes come with a backcut on them but i think its only like 10 degree, i would think more than that would be better. maybe 20 or 30 degrees backcut? not sure?
 

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I've had great luck from the Ferrea valves but they have several different lines. I've been using their best quality stainless valves and they are fine. It seems like it might have been a less expensive line that had the pitting problem and in that case it I know it didn't come from high EGT conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, i got the ferrea intake valves today and they say BBC ? 5000 series

2.250X11/32X5.271

looks like the right valves, but i should have sprung for the 6000 series.
 

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OK, i got the ferrea intake valves today and they say BBC ? 5000 series

2.250X11/32X5.271

looks like the right valves, but i should have sprung for the 6000 series.
That is one of the problems. You should be looking at the Competition Plus line of Ferrea's valves, minimum. They're about 2.5x the price of the 5000 series. If you want to go bullet-proof, then go with the Super Alloy line on the exhaust, but you're looking at 3+ x the amount of the 5000 series. You do get what you pay for. The 5000 series is way under what you should be buying, and if one breaks, it is going to cost you a lot more than just valves to repair all the damage.

Hope that helps,

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, i do agree that i would be better to go 6000 series, i said that, but when trick flow put these heads together they came with the 5000 series valves and have worked for 2 1/2 years until now. i'm only running 726 lift so breaking a valve would be outside the norm considering the motor doesn't run past 7000. what about the ford racing exhuast valves? are they also low end or will they stand the performance increase better than the ferrea 5000?
 

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cupped and/or distorted intake valves is usually due to pre ignition. Either timing is too far advanced or fuel isn't up to par. Running lean is a contributor too (and things like leaky intake gaskets can be part of that). Were any ground straps melted off the plugs?
 

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5000 series were the ones that I had corrosion problems with on the exhaust valves. Get better quality valves and you'll be happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I sent the 5000 series back and bought the 6000 series intakes, ? -the 6000 series are 0.50 longer, this will effect the spring pressure so just shim the springs? i have Manley nex-tex 1.64 roller springs and i was going to shim 0.20 anyway but now this longer valve may present a problem with geometry and pressure, i need at least 240#@seat .... @ 2.00 this is not a problem. is the longer valve okto shim up?
 

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I had some Ferrea exhaust valves do some sort of weird corrosion on the back sides of their heads. It looked sort of like rust on some of the valves but on others it had more of a blistered look.

I have a tough time believing that high EGT's are the cause of the problem unless they are causing the valve to stick in the guide and get hit. How high are the temps? I've had valves look reasonably good after two seasons of circle track running with EGT's of around 1500 degrees. I replaced them but none were bent or really looking all that much the worse for wear.
Did it look kinda like this?



I had one intake head look like this and the backside of the head on one exhaust. It looks 'bubbly'.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
my intakes were warped at the big end and wobbled when checked for runout -the exhuast was more pitted and not on the chamber side but on the bowel side and seat area. i can't speak for Daves valves.
 
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