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Discussion Starter #1
Stupid Question I know but what do I need to do in order to run a thermostat in my 460? It has a CSR electric pump and no coolant bypass from the intake to the water pump. Will a 1/8" hole drilled in the thermostat provide enough flow when the thermostat is closed? Or do I need to plumb in a bypass?
 

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Not all electric water pump manufacturers say the same thing

Some say use a restrictor
some say use nothing
some say use a thermostat.

The fear is "thermonucleatic boiling" (whew), which is the formation of tiny localized bubbles in the hot areas of the heads. Once a blanket of small air bubbles form on the surface, the heat-conduction away from that surface diminishes. Having a pressurized system helps prevent these bubbles from forming and makes for better heat exchange.

So, if you believe in the bubble theory, run a thermostat or restrictor.

If you don't, run nothing.

Read the document titled "cooling system principles"; from Meziere's web site:
http://www.meziere.com/index.php?pgName=instructions

Or at the very least, this is what they have to say about thermostats:


Thermostat

For most applications, with the exception of drag racing, a thermostat is recommended. Most racers avoid thermostats seeing them as another part to fail, but their benefits far out weigh their stigma. A water outlet restrictor can be used in place of the thermostat if you prefer. In our opinion Robertshaw high flow (available from Mr. Gasket, Milidon, or Moroso), Stant Superstat or the highly reliable Cloristat used in Volvo 4 cylinder engines (fits Chevy V8s) are the best choices. The Robertshaw thermostat offers the least amount of restriction when fully open which is desirable for electric pumps incapable of producing high dynamic pressures. The thermostats main purpose is to bring the engine quickly up to operating temperature and maintain that temperature (see section; Recommended Operating Temp). The restriction at the water outlet will maintain an even block pressure (reducing localized boiling) during pressure surges produced by mechanical pump rpm cycles. Under deceleration the drop in pressure can allow the coolant to boil and in extreme cases this can occur in the radiator with the related expansion causing the radiators tubes to balloon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
that's what I'm trying to find out. I'm using a restrictor now but there is about a 30 degree fluctuation in eng temp. I was thinking a thermostat would help regulate it to a steadier, more consistent temp reading. My concern is that w/o a bypass it's gonna build too much pressure when the thermostat is closed. That's what I was asking is how to eliminate this.
 

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You ever thought of using a Summit Electric Fan Thermostat Sending Unit
They come in different heat ranges and turn the fan and water pump off and on. There is a relay to carry the load. It will regulate the temperature electrically. If you don't have an electric fan just hook up the water pump.
 

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I was getting temperature spikes with the thermostat and no holes (air maybe) as soon as I drilled the 6 bypass holes all problems went away and it worked perfectly.

Tried to drill one of those Shaw high flows and by design of the thermostat the holes caused binding, hanging it ½ open. Drilling an OEM style thermostat allows more flow automatically making it a high flow.
 

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Bracket Racer said:
You ever thought of using a Summit Electric Fan Thermostat Sending Unit
They come in different heat ranges and turn the fan and water pump off and on. There is a relay to carry the load. It will regulate the temperature electrically. If you don't have an electric fan just hook up the water pump.
My fans are operated by a thermostat switch and kick on around 180 degrees but I leave my waterpump on all the time to keep the water circulating. Seems to keep the engine at a more consistent temperature.



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