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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All!
Been on the site a while as a longtime 460 owner. Got a puzzling problem so I thought I'd get some collective knowledge feedback! So, here's the background-I've been running a 77 Lincoln Continental 460 4bbl on clay track for about 13 years. (Yep!, it's fast till it overheats which is a problem for another day.) It backfired last year and wouldn't start after that. So, I started moving the distributor around since I had a feeling the timing gears jumped. In the pic of the Distr., the straight line is where #1 is on the cap. Where the rotor is, is now where TDC is for #1 cyl. In one pic you can see how much it's stretched. Now-here's the problem. If the timing gears jumped when it backfired why do they timing marks still line up to factory specs??? In the timing gear pic, #1 piston is it at TDC. The key is offset a little due to Ford putting about a 2 degree retard in timing for the EPA. It still sounds like crap when it runs so something is wrong. I can't figure out how the distributor got so out of sync with the engine? There sems to be no wiggle room between the Cam gear and the Distributor gear so I don't think that's the problem. If anyone has any idea about what is wrong, I'd appreciate some feedback. I've stopped the repairs on it till I figure out what happened.

Thanks!

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HI that's a lot of slop in the chain.. replacing it would put the distributor back inline.. there is tension on the chain when running .. the way you have it posistioned showing the marks lined up there is not tension on ether side..
rotate the motor in the direction of operation and when the crank gets to TDC I'd bet the cam gear is off.. Remember two rotations to bring it back to proper TDC.
Replace the timing gears and chain
 

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Never mind, stupid hit keyboard before brain engaged... Ok I'll toss it out... Are you sure the distributor gear didn't slip on the cam? And I'll agree with replacement of timing gears and chain w a double roller.. only other thing I can think of is possible the backfire came from the keyway on the reluctor in the distributor is worn out and is causing a misfire because it's just spinning freely?
 

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HI
I still say timing gear/chain.. I Just re-looked at your picture of the marks lined . if you look real close you well see that the cam gear is not its pointing to the right. With the chain slop your timing is way off.
Replace the timing set..
Double Roller for sure.. If its not a problem now it well be in a few races so since you are in there replace it..

Just looked again and that cam gear is one of those stock PLASTIC gears. looks like a lot of ware..

good luck take care be safe
tim
 

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Simply order an OEM style double roller timing set for a 93 and up EFI 460 and get rid of the oil slinger.

Properly curve the distributor. 36* TT










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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi, thanks for the reply. The reluctor is pretty new. Backfire happened when it got flooded during a re-start. There is very little free play in the distributor, vertical or sideways. Yes, new double roller and gears from Rock Auto going to be ordered.
Question...is the cam sprocket bolt righty tighty-lefty loosey as normal or is opposite because the sprocket spins clockwise?
Thanks
 

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HI oil slinger is the thin washer in front of the crank gear..
as per the back fire.. if you still have the Holley carb.. they don't like back fires.. it tends to blow out the power valve.. and can cause flooding. watch down the carb when you shut it off for a minute .. watch for smoke .. smoke would be raw fuel running into the carb from a blown power valve. since this is a race application they can be removed and a block off bolt added in its place.. from a kit.

good luck take care be safe
tim
 

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HI Here is a link to power valve and a block off kit. not sure if it fits your application just for reference.


good luck take care be safe
tim
 

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The keyway on the crank isn't ground retarded, the keyway in the bottom sprocket is broached retarded. It really doesn't matter as you're damn lucky that nylon tooth OE set didn't shed teeth (yet). When you replace it with an early timing set you'll notice the dot on the tooth relative to the keyway is different (eliminating the retard). If you use a piston stop on #1 to determine actual TDC I think you'll see you jumped a tooth (in addition to an extremely worn retarded timing set).
 
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