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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I am currently in the middle of restoring my late grandfather's '87 F350 Flatbed, and intend to use it to tow a camper among other things when I get it done.

A few facts about it:

1987 F-350 Cab and Chassis Dually
Last year Holley 4 Barrel Carb'ed 460
ZF S5-42 Manual 5 Speed Trans
4x4 With Dana 60 Solid Front Axle and Sterling Rear

Anyhow, I have already ordered and received a top end kit, engine kit, and Corrected ProComp Aluminum Heads from Scotty. My block is currently at my local machine shop in line waiting to be bored over 0.030" and decked along with my crank being ground.

I'm am gathering all the parts for when my block is done, it will be go time on engine assembly.

This is where I wanted to ask for tips or any guidance. I tore down the engine prior to the machine shop and it went pretty well, so I'm not too concerned with getting it back together, I just want to get as much right the first time as I can.

I've never assembled an engine, but I am pretty methodical when it comes to things. I am a mechanical engineer by degree, so I understand most things mechanical (by no means an expert).

Is there anything specific to the Ford 460 I should know for assembly?

Last question for this post, what is everyone using for water pumps? I see Edlebrock has one that is a little pricey, but I'll pay it if it is a worthwhile upgrade, I'm in territory where I don't want to do the work twice and my labor is cheap, so I'll pay for the best parts that make sense.

Thanks,

Jordan
 

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I’m a first time engine builder but I’ve learned a lot so far and from what I’ve gathered
Have a clean shop, a clean shop makes a clean mind and reduces particulates in the engine
If your unsure of something measure it, a $30 tool is worth the insurance of destroying some brand new parts
 

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An OEM replacement gates water pump is more than adequate for the task.
We use them on most of our crate engines up to about 700 hp.


Poop on edelbrock's $352 water pump lol








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Facebook လော့ဂ်အင်ဝင်ရန်
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
An OEM replacement gates water pump is more than adequate for the task.
We use them on most of our crate engines up to about 700 hp.


Poop on edelbrock's $352 water pump lol








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Facebook လော့ဂ်အင်ဝင်ရန်
Thanks Scotty. I figured it wasn't needed. Pretty steep for a water pump even if it is aluminum.

As for the bolts for the pump, do they all go into water jacket and need sealant?
 

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Thanks Scotty. I figured it wasn't needed. Pretty steep for a water pump even if it is aluminum.

As for the bolts for the pump, do they all go into water jacket and need sealant?
1 long bolt goes into water. Passenger side below water transfer hole into cover / block.

1 water pump to cover bolt goes into the timing cover. Just to left of water pump lower rad hose connect.

Occasionally both short bottom bolts go into the timing cover.

Link from 2019 that has a pic.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
ကြည့်ရှုရန် လော့ဂ်အင်ဝင်ပါ သို့မဟုတ် အကောင့်ဖွင့်ပါ
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1 long bolt goes into water. Passenger side below water transfer hole into cover / block.

1 water pump to cover bolt goes into the timing cover. Just to left of water pump lower rad hose connect.

Occasionally both short bottom bolts go into the timing cover.

Link from 2019 that has a pic.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
ကြည့်ရှုရန် လော့ဂ်အင်ဝင်ပါ သို့မဟုတ် အကောင့်ဖွင့်ပါ
Thanks for the link.

I'm sure I'll be back to ask more once I think of it.
 

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Hello guys, I am about to embark on a similar project for a 2WD 1990 Ford E350 Van XL 460 EFI with EOD4 transmission and posi-traction 3.73 gears 10,000 lbs. tow package w/steel 16- inch rims & 235/85R16 tires. I am seeking to do a full restoration with a buildup of a 460-545 Stroker bored 0.030 over with flat pistons and tapper cam for low RPM Mid-Compression Torque Monster focus. Hearing 545 avoids cylinder wall strength concerns of a 557 Stokers. Not sure if a hydraulic roller lifter/cam would be beneficial. Will share what I have found online but also seeking info as well if you come by it. I can't seem to find the right intake manifold for the 1989-1997 460 EFI Muli-port fuel injection with EGR valve for a low RPM high torque 460-545 Stroker build out but gathering my parts wish list. Everything I am seeing shows the EOD4 needs the factory computer and certain connections to run properly. I want to run on 91-93 octane and 9.5-10:1 compression and thinking either D3 or D2VE heads but need help with piston matches and have no idea what is on it from the factory. I have read many threads and it appears possible to build a pump gas stroker with 500 ft. lbs. of torque starting at <1500 RPM and maxing out about 670 ft. lbs. of torque around 4500 RPM with a redline 5000-5500 RPM; for longevity and hopeful fuel efficiency potential of 8-10 mpg the lower the redline the better. HP will be above <450 and depending on parts up to 650 naturally aspirated, no plans for nitrous or blower. Also need help determining if I should go forged piston and crank vs. cast being power output is on the fringes of what cast components are rated for. Torque could exceed 700 ft.lbs won't know till it's on the dyno with estimated 2" headers and 2.5" H pipes & 3" ends. I realize your 1987 is carbureted but if you see any recommendations let me know. Edelbrock has manifolds and heads, but they are for higher RPM applications that move the power band up and increase mechanical friction decreasing any potential for fuel efficiency while raising the max torque band out of normal cruising/towing range. I want a tow engine not a drag/race engine. Mileage will likely go down, but power increase will be worth it the smiles per gallon. Additionally, being an E-350, seeking 17- or 18-inch rims. Would love to fit a 255/75R17, 275/70R17 or 255/70R18, 265/70R18 E rated tires without cutting or lift, any suggestions? Could consider17's in front with 18's in rear being I can't find a lift kit for the twin I-beam King Pin front suspension. Also, having trouble determining what rims and tires will fit front end due to space and brake caliber size or rear due to the how far the bearing hubs and rear drums stick out. Not sure it is a 10.50 ring gear Dana Model 70 Axle or Dana Model 60 Axle w/full Floating Axle w/9.75 ring gear. I have the opportunity to do this right and seeking input for a quality parts build and shops that may be able to handle this engine machine/build. Any input would be appreciated.
To many questions in one post man, @The Mad Porter can set you up with a good combo. That’s what I did make it very simple
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hello guys, I am about to embark on a similar project for a 2WD 1990 Ford E350 Van XL 460 EFI with EOD4 transmission and posi-traction 3.73 gears 10,000 lbs. tow package w/steel 16- inch rims & 235/85R16 tires. I am seeking to do a full restoration with a buildup of a 460-545 Stroker bored 0.030 over with flat pistons and tapper cam for low RPM Mid-Compression Torque Monster focus. Hearing 545 avoids cylinder wall strength concerns of a 557 Stokers. Not sure if a hydraulic roller lifter/cam would be beneficial. Will share what I have found online but also seeking info as well if you come by it. I can't seem to find the right intake manifold for the 1989-1997 460 EFI Muli-port fuel injection with EGR valve for a low RPM high torque 460-545 Stroker build out but gathering my parts wish list. Everything I am seeing shows the EOD4 needs the factory computer and certain connections to run properly. I want to run on 91-93 octane and 9.5-10:1 compression and thinking either D3 or D2VE heads but need help with piston matches and have no idea what is on it from the factory. I have read many threads and it appears possible to build a pump gas stroker with 500 ft. lbs. of torque starting at <1500 RPM and maxing out about 670 ft. lbs. of torque around 4500 RPM with a redline 5000-5500 RPM; for longevity and hopeful fuel efficiency potential of 8-10 mpg the lower the redline the better. HP will be above <450 and depending on parts up to 650 naturally aspirated, no plans for nitrous or blower. Also need help determining if I should go forged piston and crank vs. cast being power output is on the fringes of what cast components are rated for. Torque could exceed 700 ft.lbs won't know till it's on the dyno with estimated 2" headers and 2.5" H pipes & 3" ends. I realize your 1987 is carbureted but if you see any recommendations let me know. Edelbrock has manifolds and heads, but they are for higher RPM applications that move the power band up and increase mechanical friction decreasing any potential for fuel efficiency while raising the max torque band out of normal cruising/towing range. I want a tow engine not a drag/race engine. Mileage will likely go down, but power increase will be worth it the smiles per gallon. Additionally, being an E-350, seeking 17- or 18-inch rims. Would love to fit a 255/75R17, 275/70R17 or 255/70R18, 265/70R18 E rated tires without cutting or lift, any suggestions? Could consider17's in front with 18's in rear being I can't find a lift kit for the twin I-beam King Pin front suspension. Also, having trouble determining what rims and tires will fit front end due to space and brake caliber size or rear due to the how far the bearing hubs and rear drums stick out. Not sure it is a 10.50 ring gear Dana Model 70 Axle or Dana Model 60 Axle w/full Floating Axle w/9.75 ring gear. I have the opportunity to do this right and seeking input for a quality parts build and shops that may be able to handle this engine machine/build. Any input would be appreciated.
Probably be best to start your own thread...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1 long bolt goes into water. Passenger side below water transfer hole into cover / block.

1 water pump to cover bolt goes into the timing cover. Just to left of water pump lower rad hose connect.

Occasionally both short bottom bolts go into the timing cover.

Link from 2019 that has a pic.





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
ကြည့်ရှုရန် လော့ဂ်အင်ဝင်ပါ သို့မဟုတ် အကောင့်ဖွင့်ပါ
Looks like there is a pre and post '93 water pump. Is there an advantage to one vs the other?

Are all 460 water pumps standard rotation (clockwise)?
 

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Looks like there is a pre and post '93 water pump. Is there an advantage to one vs the other?

Are all 460 water pumps standard rotation (clockwise)?
The 93 and up wp has a flange location further from the backing plate and uses different length bolts.

Flange bolt circle is larger in diameter as well. The brackets and pulley offsets are slightly different as well.

Stick with a quality replacement. No need to reinvent the wheel.






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 93 and up wp has a flange location further from the backing plate and uses different length bolts.

Flange bolt circle is larger in diameter as well. The brackets and pulley offsets are slightly different as well.

Stick with a quality replacement. No need to reinvent the wheel.






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
Sounds good. Thanks Scotty. Not trying to overthink everything.

The gates pump looks like a good option.
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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I wouldn't think so as long as you put lubricant under the washers that should keep em from sticking to the aluminum.. I would use quality hardware tho.. I get most of my stuff from Fastenal, I have a local store here.
 

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Use a brush kit to clean out those oil passages, a blast from a can of brake cleaner just won't do.. you can get a cheapy kit at HF to get to some of it, but if you wanna get them cleaned from front to back pick up a Moroso brush kit for about $50. It's also got a big one in it for cleaning piston bores after they've been honest!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Pull the oil gallery plugs and clean out the oil passages prior to assembly. They can get crusty over the years.
Double check that the machine shop installed the cam bearings correctly where the Oil holes line up.
Be sure to check piston ring end gap.

James
Is it worth it work the drain back holes and stuff for oil flow?

I'm sure everything was crusty on this motor. I can't believe I was able to get it to run.
 
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