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Discussion Starter #1
I figured this might be a good forum to ask this question...

I need to find a way to trailer my '59 from my house to my shop. I recently opened my own business, and have moved all my mechanic and fabrication tools to my commercial space. I need to be able to ferry the car chassis and body over to the shop in order to continue work on it.

Here's the rub: The chassis is air ride equipped, but it's not yet complete, so I can't raise it. As it currently sits (fully lowered), the bottom of the chassis frame rails is only 3" off the ground; the body is only 0.25" off the ground (see pictures below). The body gets high centered on a 10* break-over angle. To add to the problem, the only trailer I have access to is my 20' deck-over gooseneck. Even with the 4' dovetail and 4' ramps, there is NO WAY that chassis is getting on that trailer without being lifted by a gantry, or something similar. I can't afford to keep renting or buy a new trailer just to move the car around during the build up. Do you guys have any thoughts on how to cope with this? Thanks in advance.






 

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Can you back the car on with a floor jack in the back and a engine hoist in the front? Use the jack to get the car started and hang the front with the hoist.
 

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Get the longest 2x6 you can Maybe even 4 of them and build the ramp(s) you need... Compared to another trailer, the cost of 4 2x6 and some 2x4 braceing to make the ramps... pretty cheap. Just extend the ramp length angle out far enough to get the car on.

Might take the length of the driveway.... but its an option
 

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If you have shock mounts on the car you can take some tubing and make some mock-up shocks that just bolt in. They should work fine for just rolling the car around.
 

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jones said:
If you have shock mounts on the car you can take some tubing and make some mock-up shocks that just bolt in. They should work fine for just rolling the car around.
We've done this on the rear with square tubing. The front ones may take a little more ingenuity, but whatever works :!:
 

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It depends on clearance issues. I purchased some farm implement wheels and tires to move mine around. I think they are the kind of thing that certain tractors use. I found them somewhere on the web a few years ago. They were simply larger diameter to raise the car, but they were also much narrower and made it easier to steer around the shop and on and off the trailer. Perhaps You could use a pair on the front and some dollies on the back (?)
 

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Can you raise the frame up to the susp. limits then make some spacers to keep the susp. fully extended. Along the lines of what Jones said but the whole car is lifted except for the sups. Just like if you filled the air bags to full height.
 

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Also..

Also, jacking up the front of the trailer while loading can help take some of the angle out. Just leave it attached to the truck, so you don't pop a trailer wheelie. :shock: :lol:
 

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Had to do that to get the exhaust to clear the ramp/trailer interface. Just threw floor jack down on lifted tongue (and azz end of truck) to get a nice smooth ramp angle....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone for the replies. I think I have some ideas to work from now. I'll let you know what I come up with.
 

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If it were mine, I would put some tall tires on the car, especially in front(to clear dolly) and dolly the car.

If you really want to use your goose-over, like Kim said buy some wood...it's cheap. Get yourself 6 long and cut 6 or more shorter 2x6, stack and overlap the wood pyramid style on the loading end. See how far you get loading with the long boards. You will have to 'block-up' the rear tires(twice or more) with the short wood while they are still on the ramps and do the same to the front tires when they hit the trailer(front tires still going up hill while loading), it will be some work...do it all the time with customers lowrider VW vans, lowered bimmers, etc. Along with jacking up the trailer tongue, as Jeff mentioned, should do it...damn that thing IS low! :shock: :lol:

Good luck!

Rick S.
 

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Re: Also..

cletus66 said:
Also, jacking up the front of the trailer while loading can help take some of the angle out. Just leave it attached to the truck, so you don't pop a trailer wheelie. :shock: :lol:
This is how we get my fathers 57 Chevy on the trailer.. Works great.
 

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idea

I see ,in the photo, the air bags are in. Just put a screw in fitting , with a brass shut off valve ,and a shop air hose fitting on the bag, and temp. fill the bags to load and move. When your done, unscrew the fittings u made and put them in the tool box for the next job. I do it with big truck air bags , and truck brake cans too.
 

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1959Ford said:
I figured this might be a good forum to ask this question...

I can't afford to keep renting or buy a new trailer just to move the car around during the build up. Do you guys have any thoughts on how to cope with this? Thanks in advance.
I think the guy is trying to save some dinero. If you have to move it more than once during your build, yes, consider buying a rollback :lol: Seriously, it is not that big a deal to get the wood out, so to speak. Anytime I have too, it's an extra $200+ in my pocket. Yes, there are smarter ways to move the car, but ya do what ya gotta do. :wink:

Rick S.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks again for the replies. One thing I failed to mention is that I need to move the chassis on a frequent basis. I don't have quite enough commercial shop space to leave the chassis there full time. Therefore, it must come back to my residential garage after work is complete.

As R8NGER suggested, I'm going to install some temporary air lines so I can raise and lower the air suspension. I'll fabricate some 12' ramps, use the winch on my gooseneck to pull the chassis onto the ramps, and then raise rear of the ramps with my engine hoist. I should then be able to move the chassis onto the trailer with no issues. A little cumbersome, but it should work.
 

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8)...sounds like you got it figured out. It can be cumbersome, but at least it is the same car every time.

I once moved a GTO that was inop. They said, "no motor/trans sitting out front". I get there, the car is in the backyard....with no rag joint on the steering...talk about cumbersome :lol:

Keep us posted...that will be one sweet and unique ride. 8)

Rick S.
 

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Why can't you wedge 4x4 lumber in where the springs (or air shocks/bags) will go?

I brought the cobra to my house with 4 chunks of 4x4 where the springs should be and used ratchet straps to make sure the a-arms stayed compressed so the logs wouldn't fall out.
 
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