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Discussion Starter #1
I remember somebody posting pics of their triangulated four link on the old site. I think it was one of the bronco guys. I am considering doing this on my truck and would like to see those pictures again and what parts you used to do it. Thanks
 

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Bronco Beast.

I think you might be thinking about Pat, "Bronco Beast". I don't remember his site address, but you might be able to find a reference to it on the old net54 460 site.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was wanting to see how pat had mounted the top bars on his because the 78/79 broncos are virtually the same as the 73/79 f-150s. Looks like he just bolted it directly to the frame. I think when I do it, I will run a piece of square tube directly against that crossmember so that it will have enough support, especially if I have to notch it for driveshaft clearance since the truck is bagged.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sorry to bring this back from the dead, but will a triangulated 4-link act the same as a parallel 4-link? I need to know if it can be adjusted like a the parallel or not. Dont know how many people out there are using the triangulated link, so any info for making a decision is helpful.
 

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The triangulated 4-link can also be adjusted similar to a parallel setup,(triangulated does not have a panhard bar) the main thing you will need to remember is when adjusting the bars (for pinion angle and such) you will also need to double check your lateral movement, ( if you adjust one upper or lower more that the other it will shift the diff housing to one side or the other,)

traingulated 4-link really only becomes tricky on long travel suspension, (changing roll over steer & rear steer throughout travel) in your application once you set it up correctly it should not change much through out travel,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
okay. I'll look tonight to see what kind of room I have to work with. Is there a perticular angle for the top bars that is needed or does it just have to be able to hold the axle centered?
 

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Triangulated 4 links seems to be the latest fad everywhere and it is the last suspension I would put in a vehicle. We are talking about 1978 Fairmont technology......it sucks to say the least. It is plagued with suspension bind problems when you want anything more than a stock ride quality and ride height. It is the same as the whole M11 thing. Why the heck would I want to put 30 year old suspension in my 40 year old car. My pinto ride is the last thing I would be 'upgrading' to.

Go with a parallel setup or a drag type 4 link and use a panhard bar to control axle movement side to side. With the amount of drop in your truck I think that would be better.

There will be some that think it is great but I pose this question: what does the new mustang have ?? Not a four link. If you look at alot of winning Mustangs built to handle what do they have? Steeda, Griggs, Maximum Motorsports all have solutions to get rid of the triangulated setup.
 

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Jay with what you just said, what is one of the quickest, easiest to hook up cars with a stockish suspension? I am refering to the fox body cars & a triangulated 4-link, I won't debate what is winning & how becuase I do not know, what I do know is I have seen some very fast cars hooking a lot of power to the ground through a fairly small tire, all with a lightly modded tri 4-link,

I believe a person should install what they like, & if you are not a fan of the tri 4-link that is fine, but to call in out dated, or antiquated, that is your opinion, (which you have the right to), but there are areas of motorsport where the triangulated 4-link dominates & is the best option,

Oh, & 545guy, with your truck bieng lowered I think you'll have to think out side the box to find a mounting place for a panhard bar with a parallel 4-link, (that is if you still have a floor in the bed of your truck,) you could always use the angled panhard similar to competition engeneering, but then you essentially have a traingulated 4-link with an extra bar that is not needed,
 

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Discussion Starter #11


I have plenty of room. Right now i'm running a two link with a watts link. I thought maybe I could get rid of the watts link, because I ended up putting it on top of the axle, which doesn't look that great, and will bind when all the way down. The trucks got only 13" of drop :lol:
 

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Yea, I'd say you have plenty of room for a pan hard bar, If you choose to go with the parallel link set up, I did not realize you were running a watts link setup,

on a side note, what are you running for suspension on the front, I am getting ready to work on the girl friends drag truck & I've just started looking at how poeple have lowered the front ends of these late 70's 2wd trucks, how is yours done?
 

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LOL....

Jay, when the new Mustang came out, I was amazed at how much the rear suspension looks just like my 1966 Galaxie. :shock: :lol: I hear the new Mustangs have some wheelhop issues just like my Galaxie too. :lol: The Gal does ride real nice though.
 

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Re: LOL....

cletus66 said:
Jay, when the new Mustang came out, I was amazed at how much the rear suspension looks just like my 1966 Galaxie. :shock: :lol: I hear the new Mustangs have some wheelhop issues just like my Galaxie too. :lol: The Gal does ride real nice though.
Well my 06 has not had any issues but I have not bolted any slicks on it or anything. Just street driving. I can tell you that it handles light years better than my 85 ever did when it was new.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm still running I-beams, but switched them to chassis tech 3" dropped beams(expensive, but as strong or stronger than original's I think)

You know, I may be able to put them on the outside of the frame, but it needs to serve dual purpose. Needs to be able to tilt side to side and not sure if the parallel setup would like that or not. If I go that way, I'll just remake the watts link, so that my tires will never rub. They are close as it is, and my et streets are getting the letters chewed off :lol:
 

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You know, I always wondered why you couldn't build a 4 link using the same thread rod ends (both righ hand thread for example) with threaded tubes (not weld on bungs). By leaving the the rod ends loose (no jam nuts) then the bars could rotate but not come unscrewed because of the same thread direction. This would allow full movement and twisting of the suspension. Maybe one of the chassis guys will chime in as to whether this would work or not.
 

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Not a chassis guy

I'm not a chassis guy, but at my job (chemical plant), I have seen BIG valves vibrate closed or open just from the movement of a pump. I guess it has to do with harmonics or something. It will unscrew itself and you'll wreck. I guess that's why some stuff is safety wired. Shake it just right and away it goes. :lol:
EDIT !!!
After rereading your post, I don't know. :oops: Aside from wear issues, I can't get my mind around it. :?
 

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Seems unnatural to ask threads to take dynamic loads like that, plus the thread pitch would have to be selected to correlate with the amount of binding geometry.

I think that putting the Watts linkage on top of the axle housing will make the thing weight jack and lift up the inside tire badly in turns. Even if you don't care about handling, why make it worse than stock? Same thing would also happen if you put a wishbone or Panhard on top instead of bottom.
 

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fordsbyjay said:
why you couldn't build a 4 link..........with threaded tubes (not weld on bungs)
Some of the lower priced or "sportsman" 4-links offered by some companys do indeed use real thick wall DOM mild steel tubing that is directly threaded for the rod-ends (no threaded weld-in inserts used).


fordsbyjay said:
By leaving the the rod ends loose (no jam nuts) then the bars could rotate but not come unscrewed because of the same thread direction. This would allow full movement and twisting of the suspension. Maybe one of the chassis guys will chime in as to whether this would work or not.
Allowing this slack (clearances between the rod-end's threads & the cut threads in the 4-link tube) is asking for trouble. This sack/clearance in a suspension can lead to ripped/pulled/destroyed threads from the tube or the rod-end.

Suspension slack is also thought to be a possible cause (or increase the chance of) tire-shake. That's why you should always check your rod-ends for wear, & make sure all the bolts & jam nuts are tight.
 

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Good points about the threads and loading. I can definitely see your point. I really think a 3 link would be best. It would allow the rear axle to rotate side to side as well as up and down (provided we can figure out how to make lower links that pivot). This would ultimately allow you to have full suspension travel in all directions. It would be interesting to see what rock climbers use as they seem to really put there suspension to the max.

I found a street truck magazine here at work and low and behold in there is some 3 and 4 link air bag setups. The one I found is by Easy Street Pneumatic Suspension. It was listed at a place www.aftermarketgot20s.com.

As far as opinions, I just feel that if you are starting from scratch and having to fabricate everything anyways why you would want a suspension that centers itself by causing suspension bind? The upper and lower control arms rotate on two totally different planes. I could understand if you already had this suspension in your vehicle then yeah, try and work with it. For this particular post, if I undertand correctly, we are looking for a large amount of suspenion travel both up and down and side to side.
 
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