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The link didn't have much detail but I did find some spec's for the setup:

Specs -

Motor:
460 truck block, ARP main studs, fresh bearings/rings 2004, ported
EFI heads (flow charts on web-page), Manley valves (2.18 in/1.76
ex), Crane Cam (Advertised Duration 272/284, Duration @ .050"
216/228, Lift .515"/.544"), ARP head studs, EFI intake, 77lb
injectors, Weiand aluminum water pump, steel SFI rated harmonic
balancer, high torque mini-starter, 77lb/hr fuel injectors.

Transmission:
Ford C6 with TransGo full manual shift kit, Alto Performance "Red"
clutches, Alto Kolene treated steels, TCI Breakaway converter with
anti-balloon plates. Transmission performs flawlessly.

Turbos:
Garrett TO3 .60 compressor/.63 turbine. Good for ~350-400hp each.

Rear:
8.8 housing that's been blasted, straightened, and tubes welded.
Moser Engineering 33-spline axles, C-Clip eliminators and spool.
MAC rear support cover, new brake hardware and bearings.
Currently has 2.73 gears. Very nice.

Electronics:
Electromotive TEC-II engine controller (fuel injection/
electronic distributorless ignition) - laptop programmable.
2-bar MAP sensor (reads up to 14.7psi boost)

Miscellaneous:
16 gallon fuel cell, two high-pressure EFI pumps (1 Walbro 255lph,
1 Waldon 225lph), Aeroquip hoses/fittings throughout fuel and
oiling system, Griffin 2-core aluminum radiator (fits Mustang/Fox
chassis), rear mounted battery, safety cut-off switch, Autometer
Sport Comp mechanical oil, mechanical boost/vaccuum and electric
tach, 2 K&N conical filters, Flex-Lite electric fan, manual
steering rack

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I reworded some of the questions that didn't get answered.

Your build can be accomplished with a variety of parts. The difference between some of these routes can be $1,000's of $$$. Hence, the importance for good answers to my questions.

Have a good day!
Michael


Well Michael,
1.It would be mainly a street toy say 90% of the time with the occasional pass down the strip just to see what it would run
2.For a budget lets say around $7000.00 for starters
3.I would run a factory 2 bolt block (can't remember what casting #) with edelbrock victor jr. heads, victor 460 intake if possible thats all i got as far as spare parts.
4.Maintenance i dont mind so i wouldn't be above tearing it down once a year or every six months to check everything
5.I dont take a lot of long trips so it would be limited to short trips 25 miles and less maybe th occasional 100 mile drive nothing over that though
 

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Is the 7000.00 just motor or the hole car? You dont have to do twins you can go with a single s510 that is a 95mm turbo with a 1.45 ar that turbo is good for 1400hp part number # 174290. The key is to set a hp level that you want and the parts that you have and then we can map out a turbo that will work with your setup Turbo motor are eazy to make work on the street and make a ton of power i know a few car that run in the 7,8,9 and are driven on the streets and driven to the track and back home 70+ miles one way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
the $7000 is just for motor and motor accessories.I dont have alot of spare parts now because i am using them, but the block, heads, and intake will be used the other parts i need will have to be purchased.
 

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tell me a hp you want and a list of parts you have and i put you a combo together that will work. you are looking at blow thur set up right.
See quotes below:


Well Michael,
1.It would be mainly a street toy say 90% of the time with the occasional pass down the strip just to see what it would run
2.For a budget lets say around $7000.00 for starters
3.I would run a factory 2 bolt block (can't remember what casting #) with edelbrock victor jr. heads, victor 460 intake if possible thats all i got as far as spare parts.
4.Maintenance i dont mind so i wouldn't be above tearing it down once a year or every six months to check everything
5.I dont take a lot of long trips so it would be limited to short trips 25 miles and less maybe th occasional 100 mile drive nothing over that though
I would like to make about 800 horsepower with a production block i have the heads an intake and block but as far as anything else to support the engine we will have to build or buy parts wanted to make a wicked little street car just to play with.
Here is a chart that gives you approximate turbo size for a given engine displacement and desired HP. Email me for a larger version of the file (it's downsized by Photobucket).



Facracr mentioned a setup that will reach your goals or your can go with a larger single turbo setup like turbo nut suggested. The $7,000 price tag shouldn't be too much of a problem with reasonable parts selection and a DIY on the turbo hot/cold side.

A solid cam will yield more power if you have a cylinder head that can take advantage of it. Of course, it requires more maintenance.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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Missed this topic

For exemple
Story of one of my fist builds.

One junkyard 429
D9 block D2 heads.

Block modifications:
Full fill
o-rings to deck
Eagle rods
Trw pistons
Aggressive cam
crmo pushrods

Head modifications:
Full fill
Port job
Valve springs
Roller rocker arms

Custom intake and alky injection.
One old turbo 85mm/100mm

Total costs ~5000$

Resuls 1100hp/850lb ft at 21psi boost

Run 5 seasons with minimal problems.

Later come "famuous" 429tt build

Modifications:
Valves
Valve springs
More aggressive cam
intake¨
oilpump
2x turbos

4000$ costs

Result 1700hp/1300lb ft 40 psi boost
 

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Geez! 40psi on a truck block! that's a lot even if it was filled. awesome.

With that being said, is it even necessary to have an Eliminator block if you're making around 1200-1500 rwhp?

I'd like to get a Shortbed F100 and make around 1200-1500whp and maintain a 100% sleeper appearence. Everything crammed under the hood. I could care less what it ran at the strip, and I could care less about traction, really. I'd just want something that felt beastly under my foot and would make some dyno rollers scream on a dyno day somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
tell me a hp you want and a list of parts you have and i put you a combo together that will work. you are looking at blow thur set up right.
800 horsepower streetable engine D1VE block edelbrock aluminum vic jr. heads victor460 intake and i wanna run a solid roller camshaft and a big single or twins whatever will have better street manners and spool relatively quickly. and i do plan on going blow thru style carburetor
 

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There is a company called Squires making kits like that for cars and pick-ups. http://www.ststurbo.com/industry_experts It is nice 'cause the turbos are out back, not in the engine bay. I don't think they optimise the boost though, they have to be small to keep the lag in check.

Bill
 

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this maybe a dumb idea but im new to cars,motors and drag racing but what about rear mount twins. run exhaust back to the turbos then back to a carb hat just an idea is it possible
I guess this is more of a mid-mount setup:



There is a company called Squires making kits like that for cars and pick-ups. http://www.ststurbo.com/industry_experts It is nice 'cause the turbos are out back, not in the engine bay. I don't think they optimise the boost though, they have to be small to keep the lag in check.

Bill
I think that a rear mount setup requires considerably different turbine sizing for a given application. While exhaust energy is flowing back to the turbo(s), heat energy is lost. So, you size the turbine of the turbocharger smaller so it requires less energy to spool.

Something to consider is variable vane turbochargers. I won't get started preaching about how awesome I think some of them are...but I think they have some GREAT advantages! If you're interested, do a little google searching on HE351VE or HE431VeTi, HE551VE, ect.

Have a good day!
Michael
 

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I have to mention that the answers to the questions asked previously must be realistic. But more importantly, when beginning a build plan the first question is what fuel will you use? This answer will affect every selection and compromise in the build (and every choice is a compromise ;)). The second question is the goals of the build — what does it need to do?

Also consider that goals do not have to be in horsepower, and track times or tingling toes are equally legitimate goals. In all of this the budget rules, with the first two questions directly affecting that. Consider, when you hit various power levels, the costs for chassis mods to handle and use it skyrocket. Most successful junkyard turbo builds usually see the chassis needing more money than the engine to use the power, safely. Have fun!
 

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:D:D:DHow the hell do the few of you guys who do it find these 10-20 year old threads to post answers to? Just search random terms? How do you determine which old thread to bring back up from the grave? Just curious.....
 

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:D:D:DHow the hell do the few of you guys who do it find these 10-20 year old threads to post answers to? Just search random terms? How do you determine which old thread to bring back up from the grave? Just curious.....
If you look closely 90+% of the time when one of these old threads gets bumped it’s someone’s first post which screams bot to me!!!
 
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