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Ok, I have a 1973 Ford Country Squire wagon with a 460. I want to remove all of the smog equipment and upgrade the motor. Very interested in thoughts and opinions on that. Is it as easy as disconnecting all the smogger crap, slapping on some decent cylinder heads, intake, and carb, and driving off into the sunset? Or do I need to rebuilt the stock low-compression bottom end and go all out on this bad boy (pistons, heads, cam, intake, carb, headers, etc.)? Is there anything I need to know before attempting to do this? I'm all about horsepower and would love to have a 600+ HP monster between the framerails (I already have a 900+ HP 505 cube 460 in my 67 Fairlane), but I only have a budget of about $3000 to rebuild this motor get it all back together and I'm curious what you would do in my shoes. Any pitfalls to avoid? This car will be used for long trips, some daily driving, and for towing my previously mentioned 67 Fairlane to the track. But I'm thinking the stock 73 460 is going to be lacking in the power department, so here I am, asking you guys for your opinions. So lay it on me!

Thanks!

P.S. Will a 72 or earlier grill and bumpers fit my 73?

Cyco
 

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I think you could get satisfying power by refreshing the short block with an overbore and maybe flat top pistons. I assume you have D3's on there. Max port that exhaust and clean up the intake side. Run a dual plane intake like an iron SCJ or Performer RPM. Have one of the forum members spec a hydraulic flat tappet cam for the combo. Can you find headers to fit that beast?
 

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We build a good truck / towing combo that seems to fit the bill here.

Stock c/r is in the 7.6 to 1 range at best so the key is to get static c/r in the mid 8's to 9 to 1.

The stock short block has large dished pistons that sit 30 to 40 thousandths below deck. if the short block is in overall good condition just 0 deck. re ring and bearing after a light hone.

If not then a rebuild with KB 206 pistons set at about .005" below deck will fit the bill and keep c/r in the very low nines when the heads are decked about .025"

voodoo 213/219 cam LSA would depend on final static c/r.
performer intake with cross over head restricted with a plate drilled with an 11/32" hole
750 holley
recurved dizzy
small valve budget ported D3's
shorty headers from FPA with 2.5" duals and an X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
low restriction air cleaner and dual snorkel factory type air cleaner housing home made ducted to cold air at the grill.

The build will be an easy 400 hp and 500 pound feet and pull like a freight train.


A mondo over the top build while fun in theory will be very poorly suited for towing anything.



:D
 

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We build a good truck / towing combo that seems to fit the bill here.

Stock c/r is in the 7.6 to 1 range at best so the key is to get static c/r in the mid 8's to 9 to 1.

The stock short block has large dished pistons that sit 30 to 40 thousandths below deck. if the short block is in overall good condition just 0 deck. re ring and bearing after a light hone.

If not then a rebuild with KB 206 pistons set at about .005" below deck will fit the bill and keep c/r in the very low nines when the heads are decked about .025"

voodoo 213/219 cam LSA would depend on final static c/r.
performer intake with cross over head restricted with a plate drilled with an 11/32" hole
750 holley
recurved dizzy
small valve budget ported D3's
shorty headers from FPA with 2.5" duals and an X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
low restriction air cleaner and dual snorkel factory type air cleaner housing home made ducted to cold air at the grill.

The build will be an easy 400 hp and 500 pound feet and pull like a freight train.


A mondo over the top build while fun in theory will be very poorly suited for towing anything.



:D
Scotty, I also have a 1973 Country Squire with a 429. Thanks for all the info! I was always wondering what headers would fit in there. The shock towers look really close to the exhaust manifold.

For the 429 would you go with the same advice? Should I stroke it to a 460 if I am rebuilding it anyway? I have read many of posts regarding D0VE heads. Would you go with those for a compression boost?

Thanks!
 

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We build a good truck / towing combo that seems to fit the bill here.

Stock c/r is in the 7.6 to 1 range at best so the key is to get static c/r in the mid 8's to 9 to 1.

The stock short block has large dished pistons that sit 30 to 40 thousandths below deck. if the short block is in overall good condition just 0 deck. re ring and bearing after a light hone.

If not then a rebuild with KB 206 pistons set at about .005" below deck will fit the bill and keep c/r in the very low nines when the heads are decked about .025"

voodoo 213/219 cam LSA would depend on final static c/r.
performer intake with cross over head restricted with a plate drilled with an 11/32" hole
750 holley
recurved dizzy
small valve budget ported D3's
shorty headers from FPA with 2.5" duals and an X pipe and magnaflow mufflers.
low restriction air cleaner and dual snorkel factory type air cleaner housing home made ducted to cold air at the grill.

The build will be an easy 400 hp and 500 pound feet and pull like a freight train.


A mondo over the top build while fun in theory will be very poorly suited for towing anything.



:D
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm curious about your suggestion to block off the intake crossover. What does this do and how do you do it exactly?
 

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Scotty, I also have a 1973 Country Squire with a 429. Thanks for all the info! I was always wondering what headers would fit in there. The shock towers look really close to the exhaust manifold.

For the 429 would you go with the same advice? Should I stroke it to a 460 if I am rebuilding it anyway? I have read many of posts regarding D0VE heads. Would you go with those for a compression boost?

Thanks!

Yes i would make it a 460. The cost of the crank will be paid for by the lower cost of the pistons.


:D
 
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