Very confusing 460!

1001 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by spearslogging, 26 d ago

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago

Haddy everyone.
I'm hoping someone has some answers/information about what I should do with this "mess"
Here goes....
I have a 1996 F-350 4x4
It had a very tired motor in it and my brother had a rebuilt (at a Ford dealership) so I had an engine builder do all the work because I had no time. BTW, the donor engine is out of a 1990 truck.
He said he did a bunch of work to it but I can't recall details because it was about 10 years ago.
Bored .030 over, new pistons and rings, valve job, and he said he put the biggest cam he could in it.
Told me bigger cam would cause havoc with the computer. Sorry for the lack of details it's been a long time ago.
Anyway, finally went to go pick it up and was insanely disappointed!!
5 speed truck and it doesn't have enough power to spin the tires in gravel!! No joke!
Fast forward a few years, I now need the truck.
So I started driving it and about a week later it blew a head gasket between two cylinders.
Now I have it apart and confused...
D9TE-AB block, E7TE-BD heads,
F5TE-CA balancer/dampener,
And it has a CPS.
I'm lost!
Thanks in advance for any and all help!

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

dacofa

· #2 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

Bailing wire, bubble gum and duck tape to get it running and a "rattle can" paint job to make it look new. If it's bored .030" over you could take it to .040" and use the same block. Crank and rods are still uselessabl, (not knowing what you found) and get new damper/flywheel and have it completely rebalanced. Float test the heads and fuel/exhaust system and start over there. Cam???? who knows what's in there.
I'm redoing the engine for a 71 Bronco, 302, (for guess who, the owner of the Ford dealership, not his people), this is one of the ones that Parnelli Jones ordered for his dealership in Cali. Paid way to much for it, but the engine was suppose to be rebuilt, it was a 76 block, 78 heads, and pipe plumbing for the oil sensor, etc, etc, etc. Ended up getting a new, stock block, crank, new heads, new fuel, exhaust system, and we're having to do all the garbage they did to it, to get it running and sell it on BJ Auctions. Valve covers and oil pan and a few other small pieces is all we're getting off it. The rods weren't even in the right holes and it had 2 #1 rods.
So no telling what you have.
The guy that is the lead man on this, has owned over 75 Broncos and has 12 right now. Even one of the few Denver Bronco, Broncos.
So just because a dealership did it, good luck.

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3

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #3 · 1 mo ago

I think I need this damper because of the "ring" for the sensor? Beings how the truck is mass air/OBD2
Would it make a big difference if I put F3 heads on it?
I'm thinking that's what it's supposed to have not E7's
Could that be throwing the computer off?
I'm not exaggerating when I say this.
I doubt this engine is over 100hp

pedal2themetal45

· #4 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

Hi,
Well I'm not to much on the newer stuff. What I can say is they use the same parts for years.. My motor came out of a 77 F-250 heads were D2's (1972), block was a D1 (1971) but not sure if they did or do it on the 80's and 90's stuff.. If your block is a D9TE its a 1979 block.. D=70's E=80's and F=90's. followed by the actual year of that decade the part was built.

good luck take care be safe
tim

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #5 · 1 mo ago

Thank you.
I mentioned it was confusing. Lol

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #6 · 1 mo ago

I forgot. All the oil slingers were backwards as well. That scared me!

pedal2themetal45

· #7 · 1 mo ago

HI,
Like I said they used many old castings for many years So its not really concering about your block being only an 1979..
As for oil slingers? I know of only one? can you post some pictures of what your concerns are?

good luck take care be safe
tim

mjlangley

· #8 · 1 mo ago

If you don't have the time to go through the current engine and figure out what is going on maybe it would be easier to get a reman'd engine from Jasper or somebody that would be appropriate for your model vehicle. This might help to reduce confusion since you woudln't have to worry about making sure the parts you have now are compatible with the electronic controls of your '96.

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #9 · 1 mo ago

pedal2themetal45 said:
HI,
Like I said they used many old castings for many years So its not really concering about your block being only an 1979..
As for oil slingers? I know of only one? can you post some pictures of what your concerns are?

good luck take care be safe
tim

Sorry, I meant oil deflectors

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #10 · 1 mo ago

mjlangley said:
If you don't have the time to go through the current engine and figure out what is going on maybe it would be easier to get a reman'd engine from Jasper or somebody that would be appropriate for your model vehicle. This might help to reduce confusion since you woudln't have to worry about making sure the parts you have now are compatible with the electronic controls of your '96.

My current "financial status" says I have to do the best I can with what I have. Lol
AKA, limited budget.
The good news is that it's not a daily highway driver. Locally used farm truck.
A long trip for it is a 20 mile round trip
However I do use it on the farm nearly every day.
Any ideas?

thomasa

· #11 · 1 mo ago

spearslogging said:
I think I need this damper because of the "ring" for the sensor? Beings how the truck is mass air/OBD2
Would it make a big difference if I put F3 heads on it?
I'm thinking that's what it's supposed to have not E7's
Could that be throwing the computer off?
I'm not exaggerating when I say this.
I doubt this engine is over 100hp

I doubt E7 heads are the problem. If I recall correctly, the motors.with F3 heads only made 10 hp more from the factory. No difference in the casting other than.slightly smaller valves.

The mess I started with had one E7 and one F3 head and from the sounds of it, ran better than what you have.

Not an expert by any means but would bet you could get a satisfactory work truck with the parts you have with maybe a more stock cam.

Guessing a cam was a waste of money without a way to get more air out. Air in is sufficient based on the exhaust flow of a stock motor.

If all your parts are good and measure within spec., make sure the valves seal, hone and re-ring, new bearings, stockish cam install 4 degrees advanced it the intake lobe isn't already advanced.

Seems to me you could have a usable work truck for under 1k and a little work.

Curious of the lobe lift of the cam. You could Measure this.

Hopefully somebody that knows more than me will chime in.

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spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #12 · 1 mo ago

thomasa said:
I doubt E7 heads are the problem. If I recall correctly, the motors.with F3 heads only made 10 hp more from the factory. No difference in the casting other than.slightly smaller valves.

The mess I started with had one E7 and one F3 head and from the sounds of it, ran better than what you have.

Not an expert by any means but would bet you could get a satisfactory work truck with the parts you have with maybe a more stock cam.

Guessing a cam was a waste of money without a way to get more air out. Air in is sufficient based on the exhaust flow of a stock motor.

If all your parts are good and measure within spec., make sure the valves seal, hone and re-ring, new bearings, stockish cam install 4 degrees advanced it the intake lobe isn't already advanced.

Seems to me you could have a usable work truck for under 1k and a little work.

Curious of the lobe lift of the cam. You could Measure this.

Hopefully somebody that knows more than me will chime in.

Thank you very much!
I'm just trying to make the best of what I have.
When I get more time and money I want to do it right. I love this truck and will always have it.
I just need to be able to use it ASAP

The Mad Porter

· #13 · 1 mo ago

The E7 heads have a small intake 1.980" vs. 2.084" in the F3 valve and are a minimum of 20 hp down as well as down on torque.

Checking the ignition timing is at LEAST 10 with the spout disconnected and preferably 14 to 15 btdc.

Check fuel pressure with no vac on the FPR.

Longer duration cams are not necessarily a problem for the SD and MAF EFI 460's. Low / erratic idle vacuum IS !!!

OEM exhaust is awful and a healthy OEM engine will hit a brick wall at about 3600 rpm. Cat might be plugged if present.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

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spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #14 · 1 mo ago

Would it be a good idea to put F3 heads on it?
A couple of the intake valves on these heads don't match the others. I found that kinda odd

pedal2themetal45

· #15 · 1 mo ago

HI,
I would say NO on going to F3 heads Mad said they are down 20 hp which mean LESS hp.
Mad is a great builder I'd follow his suggestions.
check that the cat isn't plugged.

Good luck take care be safe
tim

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #16 · 1 mo ago

The Mad Porter said:
The E7 heads have a small intake 1.980" vs. 2.084" in the F3 valve and are a minimum of 20 hp down as well as down on torque.

Checking the ignition timing is at LEAST 10 with the spout disconnected and preferably 14 to 15 btdc.

Check fuel pressure with no vac on the FPR.

Longer duration cams are not necessarily a problem for the SD and MAF EFI 460's. Low / erratic idle vacuum IS !!!

OEM exhaust is awful and a healthy OEM engine will hit a brick wall at about 3600 rpm. Cat might be plugged if present.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine
[/QUOTE

pedal2themetal45 said:
HI,
I would say NO on going to F3 heads Mad said they are down 20 hp which mean LESS hp.
Mad is a great builder I'd follow his suggestions.
check that the cat isn't plugged.

Good luck take care be safe
tim

I must have misread that.
I was thinking the F3 was 20hp more than the E7'S

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #17 · 1 mo ago

Oddball valve

spearslogging

Discussion Starter · #18 · 1 mo ago

spearslogging said:
Oddball valve

Trying to post a picture..

The Mad Porter

· #19 · 30 d ago

spearslogging said:
I must have misread that.
I was thinking the F3 was 20hp more than the E7'S

They are reread what I wrote in post 13

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

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Reactions: 1

thomasa

· #20 · 30 d ago

pedal2themetal45 said:
HI,
I would say NO on going to F3 heads Mad said they are down 20 hp which mean LESS hp.
Mad is a great builder I'd follow his suggestions.
check that the cat isn't plugged.

Good luck take care be safe
tim

Re read, F3 heads have the bigger valves. It would be worth your time to swap depending on what you want to spend. Simple work truck, E7 will work fine. Maximum performance, ported F3.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts