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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To start with, polished aluminum valve covers & spacer plate - rubber, steel shim, cork ? Next is whos gaskets, polished Edelbrock intake with block off shims under the cross over ? Next is the water pump, timing cover & oil pan. + You can also comment how to paint a cool looking long block ! Thanks to who respond - Tell me everything.
 

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Good questions.
I like rubber gaskets on the valve covers as I check the valve train twice per year. I use a thin layer of gasket maker, like Permatex, on all surfaces. I let enough time pass to have the silicone ''skin over'' before bolting the part down. To be honest, I don't use the thin paper gaskets at all, as the silicone is much better at sealing. Like on the timing cover, I use two studs to slide the cover into place, snug them down then use bolts. This way, you won't mess up the nice even layer you've done and you'll have perfect seal.

DO NOT use too much. I've taken valve covers and especially intake manifolds off a engine where somebody laid down a 1/2" of silicone ! On one engine, someone used bathroom calk ! lol 馃槵 (by the way, no, it didn't seal) 馃ぃ
 

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Valve cover gaskets i use the moroso blue ones that have aluminum sandwiched in and have aluminum Bushings around the bolt holes so you can't overtighten. They are reusable and last for years and i check my lash often.I use studs instead of bolts and no sealant is needed whatsoever.

Timing cover/water pump i do the same as /\ /\ Buck does- ultra gray no gaskets at all.

Only way to go if you ask me.
 

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Felpro cord with steel shim. Use them over and over. Glue them to the valve cover and thin film of oil on the head surface.
 

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Valve cover gaskets i use the moroso blue ones that have aluminum sandwiched in and have aluminum Bushings around the bolt holes so you can't overtighten. They are reusable and last for years and i check my lash often.I use studs instead of bolts and no sealant is needed whatsoever.

Timing cover/water pump i do the same as /\ /\ Buck does- ultra gray no gaskets at all.

Only way to go if you ask me.
These I assume ?
 

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The Felpro rubber or cork rocker gaskets go ok ..
Just don't use their rubbish intake printoseal gaskets . If you have small port heads the blue intakes are good .
For CJ intakes the best I have found are Victor Reinz 95074SG
 

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Any of the thick rubber VC gaskets have worked for me, just dont over tighten. I prefer Right Stuff over the other 鈥済asket makers鈥 but it is more difficult to remove if it鈥檚 something you鈥檙e disassembling frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does anyone use Edelbrock gasket chinch & their intake gaskets - on their manifolds + their instructions
 

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Does anyone use Edelbrock gasket chinch & their intake gaskets - on their manifolds + their instructions
The gasket chinch is a premium product for sticking an intake gasket to a cylinder head, I buy the type in the can with a brush for application. Another product I always have in the garage is the Permatex Aviation Sealant.
 

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The gasket chinch is a premium product for sticking an intake gasket to a cylinder head, I buy the type in the can with a brush for application. Another product I always have in the garage is the Permatex Aviation Sealant.
+2 on this advice. I've started using Hylomar too, it's very easy to work with and can be thinned out with acetone - just use a very thin spread on all surfaces and gaskets, let dry, bolt it on. Fel-pros seal fine to the intake just dry, Hylomar on the head side. Valve covers use the cork and don't overtighten the bolts, trust the gasket. USE A TORQUE WRENCH AND THE SHOP MANUAL
 

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One minute is a bit of a stretch but the stuff works really well and it鈥檚 my go to for china rails and other 鈥渞tv鈥 applications.

Even being 鈥渙ne minute鈥 I let it setup over night if at all possible.
Time needed, especially for bigger parts like oil pans.
 
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