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Discussion Starter #1
Ok heres the deal, as most of you know I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with a 11:1 523 in it and have been working on the suspension and gearing. The best pass I could get last year was [email protected] which seemed off, well I figured out my converter was giving me 12% slippage. I just removed all the front accessories off the front of the engine and the only thing running off the crank now is the alternator. I have gotten my suspension working properly now so it hooks. Last year if I could get it to stay hooked up average pass was 10.70'[email protected] this is first time out this year and it had a couple [email protected] passes. The converter was reworked and now has 6.38% slippage, I was expecting the ET to go down more and mph to increase to 132 but instead the mph stayed the same and rpm's dropped. It now goes through the traps at 6000 vs. 6300. It was suggested to install 4.10's which may drop the ET but on the other hand when I use a gear ratio calculator it is telling me to go with 3.55's. I have a friend with a pair of 29 inch tires he said I could use which would give me the same effective ratio as going to 3.55's but I really don't like the idea of borrowing someone elses slicks as they are expensive. I need help!
 

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What 60 foot are you getting now?


My brothers mustang has 3.73 gears, 29.5 slicks, 501 cubic inches, 12:1 compression, Ford motorsport solid roller cam, Victor heads and intake, 850 Double pumper carb, Tci superstreet fighter converter, C4 transmission, wieghs 3200 pound and runs 10.0's at 133.5 mph. We tried 4.11's and picked up a couple hundreths in the sixty foot, but we ran out of rpm to see much of a gain in the quarter.
 

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I think your engine isn't making as much power as it should be making. Et is traction and how effectively you get the power to the ground, MPH is horsepower.

Last year, my 3400 pound ranger ran 10.57 at 126.7 Mph with a 1.42 60 Ft. It only has a 501, Victor heads torquer intake, Comp 280 solid roller cam, 850 Carb, 10 inch torque converter, 31 inch Et Streets, 4.11 gears, C4 transmission, 9.5 compression. It sounds like with a decent sixty foot your Ranger could run 10.4's or 10.5's.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was gonna play with the rear shock settings but they shut us down because of severe weather coming in. I have 9 way adjustables in the back and 90/10's in the front.
 

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Did you remove the front accessories before or after the 10.64 pass? Also were you running an exhaust system or open headers or header extensions?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 10.64 pass last year was with power steering and crank driven water pump but that was only time it went that quick. Yesterday I got that a few times but it has only the alternator running off the crank this year. If I could get it down the track last year it would run 10.70's most of the time. I have had open headers since PAO last June. I am thinking of going up on the rear jets some and trying one of the carb spacers I have and see what that does if anything.

Edit: It has gone through the traps at 124-126mph every single pass since I went from 4.10's to 3.73's.
 

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Eric i know your pain it pisses you off when your combo isnt up to what it should. but with 1.45 to1.49 60 u are going to need 128 to run in the 10.40s. so maybe u need to review your engine build to find some more power. like we know its all up top cam, heads, intake, carb an ex. and easy way to see the power needed to get u where u want to be is add some nitrous. start with 50hp if thats it then look at what needed to get there if not go up till its right. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Well called a few places about this deal and general consensus is the optimimum gear ratio is 3.98 for my combo. I called a few of the better gear manufacter's and they will not make a single set "minumum 50 sets required for a custom ratio" was what they all pretty much had to say. I can understand that so my options are 3.89-3.90 or 4.11's. I put all my info into Wallace racing calculator and come out with 626hp so yes something is a little off. I have no signs of detonation so I may play with the timing as well. On the to do list are relashing the valves and changing the plugs and going to 96 jets in the rear currently at 93 carb came with 86/93 but my experience is 10 is the best difference front to rear. I currently have Autolite 3924's in it but Trickflow suggests AR 3924's which I have sitting on the shelf. I don't know if the backcut strap will make much difference. I was gonna swap plugs and lash the valves Sunday but we had severe weather coming so didn't get the chance at the track. My alternator was not charging correctly which didn't surprise me as I have an underdrive pulley on the crank and also on the alternator (I know I know I tried to remove the one off the alternator Saturday night but it wouldn't come off and I had to complete the rest of the truck so it stayed on). I will have the issues resolved before my next outting so hopefully I can do some tuning. I will see what that gets and if I still feel I need to swap gears I will. On paper the 4.11's look like the right choice of the 2 should have me going through the traps at 6400 with mph pretty much the same ET should drop though and mph might pick up as well.
 

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You are running a 4150 flange carb correct Eric? That thing wants a dominator. You have to figure, if you gain a 10th on the 60' it will probably just carry in through to the other end. So if you get it to run a 1.40 60' you will probably run around a 10.50. It sounds like the chassis is starting to work, now tune the motor. Where is your timing at? I would say 34-36 total is probably good. Are you running a power valve? On my 514, I was running around 92 jets with power valves front and rear! You need to throw some more fuel at that thing. I know one thing for sure, my engine is getting dynoed before it goes back in. I'm done with the guessing games! Shift points, gear ratio, launch rpm, timing, and carb jetting all done before you hit the track. And optimized! Worth the $500 bucks to me any day!
 

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x2 on dominator and 1 0r 2 inch spacer will help in the top end. Patrick at pro systems makes awesome carbs and you might want to get the new sv-1 carb which from all feed back work better than the dominators,pricey but well worth it i think.

You need to be crossing the line 400-500rpm past peak power over the finishing line. You want to be reaching peak power just before the finishing line not on the line if that makes sense!

A good formula is 1320/125.85 = 10.48 on a perfect set up so you arn't to far away from that. So i rekon the 4.11 are they way to go.

Maybe a dom or sv-1 carb will get you 130-132mph.

Good luck and keep us posted, i want to run 10.50 in a 3700lb, hopefully soon
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes current carb is QFT Qseries 1050 86/93 with 4.5 powervalve in the front and no provision in the rear. I have talked to Patrick about a carb and he has one speced out I just need the money and also have to have the intake machined for a Dominator. What he speced me may change though with the gearing change but I will be sure that he has all the current info once I order it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You know I actually haven't with the 523 now that you mention it. I was sure to check it with the 466 but now that you mention it I better check it.
 
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